Un petit air de Paris souffle sur Bangkok

On ne compte plus dorénavant les restaurants ou les pâtisseries françaises de 'la Cité des Anges'. Ils ouvrent tantôt dans de grands hôtels de la capitale, tantôt dans de grands centres commerciaux, ou bien encore opèrent leurs propres salles ou magasins.

Comme dans toutes les grandes capitales mondiales, les grandes marques habituelles sont présentes depuis fort longtemps déjà: Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Dior, Hermès, Guy Laroche, Lanvin, ELLE, Lacoste...

Central World@C.Sorans

Boutique LACOSTE à Central World

Boutique CHANEL à Siam Paragon

Vitrine CARTIER à Siam Paragon

DIOR à Siam Paragon

Vitrine Louis VUITTON à Siam Paragon

BALENCIAGA à Siam Paragon

Magasin Vuitton à Gaysorn

L'alimentation générale est omniprésente avec BIG-C, franchise thaïlandaise de CASINO, et ce pas seulement sur Bangkok, mais dans tout le pays.

Plusieurs maisons de parfums ont aussi ouvert de multiples branches dans toute la capitale. C'est le cas d'YVES ROCHER et de L'OCCITANE-en-Provence:

Yves ROCHER à Siam Centre

L'OCCITANE à Rama IX

Lampe Berger à Central World

Dernièrement, ce fut aussi le cas de la chaîne parisienne SEPHORA (fondée en 1970) et qui a d'abord ouvert une première succursale à Siam Center : Sephora Siam Centre

Depuis, d'autres succursales ont été ouvertes à Central Embassy et à Central World :

La boutique SEPHORA de Central Embassy

'Le Champagne', Gaysorn

Moët & Chandon avait déjà un restaurant sur Bangkok: restaurant M & C . Il existe maintenant un bar Moët & Chandon à Gaysorn, appelé tout simplement 'Le Champagne'.

Or voilà qu'à présent, c'est au tour de prestigieuses maisons d'épiceries fines ou de pâtisseries typiquement parisiennes d'ouvrir leurs branches à Bangkok. Il y a eu d'abord FAUCHON (maison de la Madeleine, fondée en 1886): Fauchon-The Groove@Central World , puis MAXIM'S (ouvert en 1893 à la rue Royale): Maxim's Bistrot@The Groove . PAUL (maison fondée en 1889) a ensuite emboité le pas, en ouvrant une boulangerie-pâtisserie-restaurant à Central Embassy: Paul Central Embassy .

Entrée de Fauchon

FAUCHON à The Groove, Central World

MAXIM'S à The Groove, Central World

La Maison PAUL ouvre à Central Embassy

Le dernier en date est LADURÉE (maison fondée en 1862) qui possède un prestigieux magasin sur les Champs-Élysées: Ladurée@Siam Paragon .

Ouverture de LADURÉE à Siam Paragon

Vitrine du magasin

Stand promotionnel de LADURÉE à Siam Paragon

Pièce montée de macarons Ladurée

On constate donc avec plaisir un fort regain de la présence française dans la capitale thaïlandaise, dans une période où l'économie n'est pourtant pas la meilleure. Il est vrai que le luxe ne semble guère être affecté par la crise mondiale.

Toutefois, en regardant les tarifs affichés par la Maison LADURÉE, à Siam Paragon, on ne peut s'empêcher de se poser certaines questions. Une petite boîte de double macarons coûte tout de même une somme avoisinant les 100 euros! Ce n'est donc pas à la portée de tout un chacun en Thaïlande. (L'est-ce d'ailleurs, en France?). On veut bien admettre l'art du savoir-faire et l'incommensurable plaisir que cela peut provoquer sur les glandes salivaires. A vrai dire, on en restera souvent avec seulement un arrière goût d'eau à la bouche. Alors, souhaitons que cette prestigieuse marque persistera dans la durée! :}

Christian Sorand

A Week in Bangkok

This is a gallery of photos showing some of past week's events in the City of Angels.

Audrey Hepburn's restaurant at Siam Centre

Christmas decoration at Central Rama IX

Decoration at Siam Paragon

Orchid Paradise at Siam Paragon

Orchid Royal Guard

White Xmas tree at Siam

Siam Square in the evening

Lit temple

King's well-wishers on 5 December

Pineapple fried rice at Chattusak weekend market

Dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya River

'Long Live the King' in front of Grand Palace

On Monday, 1st December, I went on the Chao Phraya River as I was invited by Thai friends to a birthday party.

I have taken the Chao Phraya water taxis on many occasions. The first time I ever came to Bangkok, I  made a day's cruise to Ayutthaya. I lived in Indonesia at the time and I came with my parents as we were traveling by train from Singapore to Chiang Rai & the Golden Triangle. But that was a long time ago, around 25 years ago! So, this was a first since I had not done a night's dinner cruise before. We boarded 'Princess V' at River City Mall.

It was Gael's mother's birthday and we were a table of 10. The buffet dinner was great. There were many people from other countries on board. The cruise lasted a few hours. And at the end there was live music, singing & an open dance floor. A group of Iranian tourists were particularly active in dancing. It seemed they really enjoyed their time on the river. There were also groups from the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, India and Spain.

Here are the pictures taken on board:

Chao Phraya cruise-boat

Sailing by Mandarin Oriental Htl.

French Embassy Residence

Buffet dinner on board

Gael's mother

Passing in front of the Grand Palace

Wat Arun

River bank skyline

River temple

Christian Sorand

'The Switzerland of the Northeast'

Wang Nam Khiao district on the northeastern side of Khao Yai National Park

Lam Pra Plerng lake

Hill resort park

  Until recently, I had not heard of this area. It is not mentioned in guidebooks (and maybe after all this is good sign). However, if you ask the Thais, they all know about this area. I guess foreign tourists do not come to Thailand to see another Switzerland! The exotic side of the country is more appealing for sure. And yet, when you live in Thailand this area might just be what sounds exotic to you!

The so called 'Switzerland of Isan' is just an eastbound continuation of Khao Yai, in the southern portion of Nakhon Ratchasima Province. It is in the district of Wang Nam Khiao (which means 'the green pond' in Thai).

From Pak Chong, at the entrance of Khao Yai National Park, to the eastern town of Wang Nam Khiao, the distance is of about 70 kilometres. The road is truly scenic and runs along the northern side of the Sankamphaeng mountain range. 

Water fountain at Toscana

  The first part of the road seems to be overdeveloped by greedy promoters, who have no limit to their exuberance. In the long run, it might have a  negative impact on the landscape. Appealing to the Thai sense of exoticism, the trend is clearly south European. So, after driving past the 'Chateau De Khaoyai', which looks like a country French manor house, you reach an awesome site called 'Toscana' - or sometimes 'Thaiscana'  - a tribute to Tuscany. It seems that the Thais are now following the steps of what Americans have been doing for years: to recreate what exists in Italy or somewhere else in Europe. The difference is that Thai people usually have good  taste. They don't go for the Hollywood or Las Vegas fake. They want something that truly transports you to the place it is supposed to be. 'Toscana' is indeed an amazing reproduction and a close flavour of the Italian Tuscany.

Hill pond

  Nevertheless, the rest of the road that goes to Wang Nam Khiao is very different. There, you know why Thais have nicknamed this gorgeous area 'the Switzerland of the Northeast'.

This is a region of high rolling hills. It is blessed by a cool climate all year round. There are rivers, ponds, lakes, and lasting morning mists, which make its natural beauty. This is a rich farmland that grows corn, sugar-cane, or even grapes - as Thailand is now slowly entering the circle of wine producers. The Shiraz grape is obviously adapting well to the climate. As you drive along, you will see meadows where cows are grazing, sometimes horses as well. Due to its cooler micro climate, there are many orchards producing tiny mandarines, pomelos, strawberries or what seems to be the king of all fruits in this region, the monkey-apple. This variety is small, oblong with a green skin and tastes a bit like a juicy green apple. The local farms also make organic vegetable plantations. There are all kinds of flowers too, some quite unusual at this latitude like the sunflowers or the chrysanthemums. Roses and orchids are everywhere.

Lakeshore flowers

As you get closer to Wang Nam Khiao, resorts or homesteads increase in numbers. Avoid weekends because many Thais come and stay here at that time.

Once you reach Lam Pra Plerng Reservoir, the landscape becomes even more attractive. The drive along the lake is very scenic with a backdrop of mountain. And then you start going on a roller coaster over hills and dales. It is time to leave the main road and take one of the many tiny country roads, where you can see scores of lovely and secluded resorts set in a bucolic landscape. There are two main tourist attractions in this area:

- A Cup of Love, a resort, a coffeeshop and a sheep farm (all the websites are in Thai).

- The Flora Park, which seems to be a high spot local destination in view of all the cars and buses! (The websites are also in Thai).

• There are also a few places, where you can stop for coffee along the way. One good address is Khun Chef Bistro & Wine Garden (Tel. 081 8368717 / Facebook site ). It is not simply a nice & cool place to stop for coffee or drinks - eventually with some delicious pastries or homemade sherbets - but also to have lunch or dinner as it is a well-known place recommended by TripAdvisor. The Thai chef & owner used to work in Belgium before. 

Khun Chef open restaurant 

Khun Chef garden cafe

• Along the lakeshore of Lam Pra Plerng, there are a few charming, little resorts. One even offers Dao Coffee and operates like an urban coffeeshop having a terrace with a view on the lake and the surrounding landscape. Further afield, you may stop and visit a vast uphill field planted with strawberries.  And, yes they do sell them at their farm stall! Holy cow, aren't they delicious!

  

  Strawberry farm

• If you are an adept of camping or do not reject the idea of spending the night in a tent, many resorts also offer this alternative. For about 400B/person a night they provide tent, material and breakfast. I opted for this option on a Saturday evening after looking for a resort to stay. Leaving the main road and turning into a lovely country road, we reached a pleasant resort on top of a steep hill. Even though, this was a secluded place, it was fully booked by a group of Thais. The owner offered to pitch a tent on top of the hill facing a great 180º panorama with a sunset/sunrise view. Hard to refuse! 

Camping with a view

Hill garden view

A nature park

• Danhill café & resort is one of my favorite. It was also fully booked during the weekend, so we came back on Sunday afternoon... and we had the whole place to ourselves. The restaurant is facing Lam Pra Plerng lake. The bungalows are in the back around a wonderful Thai garden set on a gentle slope and offering a partial view on the landscape. They have no WiFi, so their sign says: 'Sorry, no WiFi, talk to each other'! However, their mountain bikes and their canoes are free of charge. They even have a small jetty across the road from where you can watch either sunrise or sunset.

A flowery garden

 

Lakeshore at sunset

Danhill Resort bungalow

Danhill Resort Thai Garden

The district of Wang Nam Khiao may not be a traditional image of Thailand. However, it is   a resolutely green & beautiful area that appeals to senses & relaxation. And the good thing is that it is only a mere three-hour's drive away from Bangkok.

Useful websites:                      

Hill waterhole

• Wang Nam Keow
• Wang Nam Kew
• Amazing Thailand
• Toscana Valley

Personal links:

• Picture book [Google+]

Christian Sorand

Lake panorama at sunset