Journey to BRAZIL, ARGENTINA, PARAGUAY & URUGUAY.
October 09 to November 07, 2014
Day1 - October 09 / 2014: flight Bangkok-Doha.
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| Doha Airport Htl. |
Hamad International Airport is a better improvement from the previous hub facilities. It's good to know I will spend a good night at the airport hotel. The room with a king-size bed is luxurious. Ah, well, goodnight for now! Tomorrow is a really long flight. It is midnight now and I must get up at 6:00am for the flight to São Paulo.
Day 2 - 10 / 10. Flight Doha-Sao Paulo.
I am awake at 5:40am. There is a coffee-maker in the room. A nice way to wake-up before getting ready to leave.
There are a lot of passengers for this daily route to São Paulo & Buenos Aires. With my Silver Frequent Flyer card, I get priority section & boarding. Pleasant when you fly a lot.
The aircraft is a B772-LR. These airplanes can fly 17 hours non-stop. Today's long haul to São Paulo is
scheduled to last 14 hours. We leave on time on a nice and bright sunny morning.
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| B772-LR cabin |
Brunch is served about an hour after leaving Doha. They also provide the same traveling kit as yesterday's flight. I have an aisle seat this time, which allows me to stretch from time to time. A good thing to be able to do on such a long flight. Also, I have a lot to be occupied. I first went through the São Paulo section of the Brazil edition of the guidebook. Just wanted to get ready for the downtown visit of tomorrow. I am listening to music while having a glance at the route map from time to time. Some more, I have started the reading of "Rouge Brésil" by Jean-Christophe Rufin, the French Prix Goncourt 2001. I have read 3 chapters so far. Then, I walked to the far end of the cabin. I chatted with a cabin attendant from Cape Town from Thai origin. She goes rather often to Bangkok but can't speak Thai anymore. I also talked with two young Brazilians from São Paulo on their way back home from a surfing trip in Sumatra! I mainly asked for advice on São Paulo. They were all very friendly to talk with. And almost 6 hours have already elapsed. We have crossed the whole African width from Khartoum to Douala and we are now about to leave land to fly over the south Atlantic.
We are now in the middle of the ocean between Western Africa and the eastern coast of Brazil. The aircraft crossed the Equator and we are already flying in the Southern Hemisphere. Listening to classical music, I have now read 7 chapters of my book. But I have also watched a 50mn BBC documentary on Istanbul. This is the first set of a threefold report on the city that has had 3 names: Byzantium, Constantinople and finally Istanbul. So I have still more to watch after this.
On these long hauls, the cabin crew often come for service: a bottle of water, a snack with drinks, and just now an ice-cream. At the far tail of the aircraft, you can go anytime to stretch, eat or drink something, or just socialize with some fellow passengers or the crew. Now one of the air-hostess (they take turns) is a Thai lady from Khorat! Anyway, passengers are pampered on these flights. There were some light turbulence in the vicinity of the African coast but otherwise it has been a very smooth flight so far. I see on the map we are heading to Salvador, where I will go later on this trip. Actually, at this point in time, we are closer to Brazil. The aircraft is somewhere at the latitude between Recife and Salvador. The map indicates that the distance to Recife is 1,370km but the cape is clearly on Salvador.
A mere 2 hours' flight remains. We are very close to the coast dodging the head on São Paulo. They just finished serving lunch. Quite nice actually. Before, I had time to watch the 2nd BBC documentary on Istanbul. Truly fascinating. I am not sure I can watch the 3rd and last series. If not this time, for sure on the flight back in a month' s time.
The aircraft landed at Guarulhos Airport 15mn ahead of schedule after a 14h15 flight traveling a distance of about 12,000 km.
It was a bit of a stress to look for the places and do the few things I needed to start the journey in Brazil properly. the shuttle did not come in time and it took about 20mn to reach the IBIS-Guarulhos.
Day 3 - 11 / 10. São Paulo.
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| IBIS dining-room |
The bus stop is near the hotel. It takes about 40mn to reach Armenia metro station.
Nothing special on the way to Paulista. Just ugly urban landscape from the expressway. At the metro station, the guy at the ticket office looks Asian. One of the Japanese or Chinese descendants.
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| Hotel IBIS tower |
I get off at Praça da Sé to visit the Cathedral. An imposing building that rivals in grandeur other European cathedrals. A mass is being conducted (today is Saturday). Strangely, most of the worshippers are dressed in white. It revives memories of Thai ceremonies.
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| Chris in Sao Paulo |
This is all I did today as I feel a bit tired and hot by this dry weather.
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| Map of Sào Paulo historic center |
Day 4 - 12 / 10. Flight to Brasilia.
Early rising again at 3:30am. Still dark of course but today I'm off to Brasilia. Breakfast starts at 4:00am. So I just sit there till 5:00am as the daylight is starting. Another fine sunny day ahead. The hotel shuttle leaves at 5:50am and it is full. Anyway, once at the airport terminal, I can take my time to check in at the TAM Priority checking. The flight only leaves at 8:15am.
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| Brasilia Airport lounge |
After checking, I go for a quick exploration of the area in order to settle in.
There is a very nice shopping mall near the hotel. Many cafes and even a food court with some Asian cuisine as well! I also go to Brasilia's main axis to see the water fountain and have a look at the TV antenna.
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| Allia Htl.tower |
Allia Gran Hotel is really a nice, modern hotel with a tasteful design. The room is superb on 10F. The small swimming pool and fitness are on the sky deck that offers an interesting view.
Then, I leave for an afternoon's walking tour of Brasilia down the main central axis. There are lots of people everywhere because it is Sunday. There are also a few rallies due to the Presidential election.
So this is a World Heritage site conceived by Oscar Niemeyer, the architect, and Lucio Costa, the landscaper. The first edifice I see is the National Library and then next to it the National Museum that looks like a futuristic construction. Next is the Metropolitan Cathedral, whose shape represents Christ's thorn crown. There are tall bronze statues of the Apostles leading to the church. Unfortunately, it is closed today. But I feel lucky to see a procession of white-clad priests going out on a procession where the Bishop is as well at the end of the line in full episcopal attire.
The light is unusual as the sun starts its descent behind dark-gray clouds. It is time to trek back to the hotel room. Distances are longer than the eye could judge in this Modernist city.
Day 5 - 13 /10. Brasilia.
Another fine, sunny day ahead. I booked a guided tour of the city in the afternoon. So, this morning, I will take a 2nd walking tour of Brasilia.
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| Allia Hotel dining-room |
Yesterday, I accidentally took B & W photos of Brasilia. Consequently, today I must retake some. anyway, at about 8:30am I walk to the close-by TV-Tower (275m). The water fountain is active. The Tower visit starts at 9:00am and not at 8:00am as the guidebook says. Not long to wait to go with the complimentary elevator up to the viewing platform at 76m above the city. The view gives you an idea of the layout. The new Stadium is near and was used for the football World Cup. The best view is east looking down to the city main axis and the far away lake. After this visit, I take a public
bus to go back to the National Museum and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Only a few people. Unfortunately, the Cathedral cannot be seen inside yet. So I keep on walking farther east passing by an interesting dry flower market and a series of Ministry buildings. The Foreign Affairs Ministry is a lovely construction designed by Oscar Niemeyer. It seems floating on water among tropical plants and lotus. The Congress Building is near and is another iconic site of Brasilia with its 2 separate domes. The upper spherical part of the globe is for the Senate. The open upper side is for the House of Representatives. In architecture, design is always symbolic and Oscar Niemeyer did this on purpose. Before going back to the hotel, I have a look at the Justice Palace, another interesting building having waterfalls from its roof falling into a surrounding basin.
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| Chris at the Metro Cathedral |
I thought the city bus I hailed would stop me near the TV-Tower but I misunderstood and it left me half way at the central bus terminal. So I must walk back the rest of the way under a scorching sun.
Lunch again at the Mall near the hotel. I had the heck of a time to find an ATM machine I could withdraw cash from!
The city tour will come to pick me up at the lobby at 2:00pm. I rest for a while before going on a tour that will take me to other parts of the Federal District.
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| Itamaraty Palace |
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| Map of Brasilia |
Time to go back to the hotel to rest for a while. Sunset-watch from the terrace and then dinner back at the Mall.
Day 6 - 14 /10. TAM flight to Salvador.
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| Bahia café Hotel |
It is nice to rest at the airport in such a pleasant environment. Today, the flight will last 1h25 aboard TAM A320. At take-off, we have an overall view of Brasilia and also of JK Bridge over the lake. The land is cultivated. I thought it would mostly be a jungle.The arrival on Salvador is quite spectacular, as the aircraft leaves the coast and its long stretch of sandy beach to fly past islands, the bay, and Salvador peninsula.
Salvador Airport is not as nice as Brasilia's. It is aging a bit and not really inviting. My scheduled transfer (BRL90) is not there. But we arrived 20 minutes earlier from the schedule and this is rush hour time. Anyway, it gets here sometime after. Lots of traffic. This is a huge city of 2.6M people, 3rd in the country. It takes an hour to reach the hotel in the historic part of town.
Bahiacafe Hotel is a lovely place full of character as I had expected it. The room is simple over on the roof but is clean with all needed amenities including a coffeemaker. The premises are decorated with Afro-Brazilian statues and masks. A large dining area opens on the square below. There is a small lounge with a billiard and bookshelves to relax and read. And above all, it is right in the middle of the historic section.
It is night time already. The friendly receptionist recommends a restaurant. I followed his advice and was really
happy to have been there. It is called Maria Matta Moro Restaurant. About a ten minutes' walk. Old house with a small backyard patio, beautifully furnished and tastefully designed. The maitre-d'hôtel is stylish and we agree to communicate in French. A delicious meal of tasty penne linguine and an extraordinary Bahianese fresh salad with lots of seafood and mangoes.
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| Matta Moro entrance |
The walk to and fro was a great introduction to this stunning place, once the colonial capital of the Portuguese and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
For the time being, it is time to get some sleep. I have planned two full days in Salvador.
Day 7 - 15 /10. Salvador de Bahia.
Delightful breakfast time at the hotel dining-room. Superb buffet with really a great selection of food. There is a French couple from Albertville sitting at the next table. They are touring the country too. The windows are wide open on the square below. It enables guests to peep on the city life at leisure.
The entire day is dedicated to visiting the old city on foot. This is a real treat. Salvador will undoubtedly remain a highlight.
- Praça da Sé is in front of the hotel. There is a balcony on the square with a view of the lower city and the Bay of All Saints.
- Praça Municipal (City Square) is a bit farther to the left. This is where Palacio Rio Branco stands. It used to be the home of Tome de Souza, the first Portuguese Governor. This is where Elevador Lacerda is as well. This iconic elevator is a historical landmark. It links Cidade Alta (Upper City) with Cidade Baixa (Lower City). The balcony of Praca de Souza offers a grand view of the harbor and the bay.
- Using the elevator down to the Lower City, I go to Mercado Modelo. It used to be a slave market. Nowadays, this is a craft market for tourists. I look for the booth that sells the open-bus city tour for tomorrow. Reservation is secured, so I can go back to explore the historic city - a UNESCO World Heritage site.
- Terreiro de Jesus is the central square with the Cathedral and another church under renovation on the other side. The University of Medicine of Bahia State is also on this lovely square.
- At the other side of the square, there is an interesting street. Old, colorful colonial buildings line up. Cruzeiro de Sao Francisco is a huge cross at the end of this pedestrian street near San Francisco Church and Convent. There are cafes, restaurants, boutique hotels, souvenir shops along the way and several Bahianese colored ladies in their beautiful costumes.
- Convento de Igreja de Sao Francisco (18th century) is a huge colonial convent. Såo Francisco Church is Salvador's true jewel. Nicknamed the 'golden church', it is a masterpiece of colonial Portuguese architecture.
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| Elevador Lacerda |
- Then the aimless discovery of the old town continues. At Largo de Pelourinho (Plaza of the Pillory), there is a different view of the historical area built over hills & dales. This is where the Foundation of Jorge Amado is. This is a must see the museum as Salvador is the birthplace of this famous Brazilian writer.
- Later on, I will also visit the Museo Afro-Brasileiro on the Terreiro de Jesus Square and also the interior of the Cathedral.
- At sunset time, I return to the balcony of Praça Municipal to get a golden view of the Bay of All Saints.
Day 8 - 16 /10. Tour of the peninsula of Salvador de Bahia.
The day starts early with another great time at the hotel dining-room for breakfast. Today's visit is planned with the open-bus tour of the peninsula.
I need to go back to Mercado Modelo in the lower city near the port to catch the bus. It first enables me to discover part of this area and have a different view of the upper town from here. There will be 2 major stops.
- The first is for Igreja do Nosso Senhor do Bonfim. This is a prime landmark in town as it is a mix of Catholicism
and African beliefs. There are many votive ribbons ('fitas') in front of this old church with a view over the city.
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| Praia Porto da Barra |
As the bus tour continues, we pass some modern parts of the city and also many favelas before reaching the Atlantic shores. There are many resorts and some lovely beaches. But I have arranged to make a longer stop at the tip of the bay.
- Farol da Barra is a rather famous resort. As a matter of fact, the beach has been classified as one of the nicest in the world. And indeed, it is. But I have decided to get a bite at one of the restaurants on the ocean front. This is where I meet a couple of older vacationers from Uruguay. After lunch, I explore the area. First, the beach and then Forte de Santo Antonio da Barra, one of the two ancient forts built by the Portuguese (1698). There is also a lighthouse above the fort. Farol da Bara lighthouse is the oldest on the continent.
Time to go back to Pelourinho and rest a little before going out for dinner in the evening. This is the last day in Salvador.
The restaurant is a nice & picturesque place. But food & service are very disappointing.
Day 9 - 17 /10. Flight to Rio de Janeiro.
Early wake-up today as the transfer to the airport is scheduled for 8:15am. Another nice day with a few clouds in the sky. Breakfast is always pleasant in the dining room with the windows wide open onto the square and a partial view of the bay.
I quickly take a few last photos before leaving. It only takes 30mn to get to the airport today. Priority checking is a bit slow today but I have already checked in online.
The TAM flight leaves on time. It takes 1h45 for the A320 to reach Rio (GIG) airport. After finding where to take the hotel shuttle bus, I have to wait for about 20 minutes to get one (BRL8) to go anywhere. But it will take 2 full hours to reach Copacabana! My first impression of Rio is mixed. We drive past so many slum areas. This is a huge city of 6.5M. All of a sudden, we get to downtown. It looks better but still this strange impression of disappointment remains. Once on Copacabana, it looks better of course but this is just a small part of town.
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| Ht. Ducasse:9F view |
Time to go and explore the area. I end up at a stall on Copacabana with a cheeseburger and a fresh coconut. Prices are ok but at the end the guy tries to charge me more of 10 reals! This is the first time! He pretended to have made a mistake after complaining and handed me back the change.
In the evening, I walked to Ipanema and was not really impressed by what I saw, Here in Rio, the temperature is much cooler. It was 28C when at the airport. It dropped to 24C in the evening.
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| Panoramic map of Rio de Janeiro |
Day 10 - 18/10. Rio de Janeiro.
When I go for breakfast, the same uncomfortable impression. The uninviting, tiny dining room is packed. I am the only foreigner here, it is clear that this hotel only caters for Brazilians.
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| Sugarloaf cable car |
The first Swiss-made cable car goes to Moro de Urca. Nice view of the bay and the city.
There is a bit of a rainforest here as it is a park. I see my first group of marmosets. These tiny South American primates, the size of a squirrel, are adorable.
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| Marmosets |
The second cable-car is even more dramatic than the first to go on top of the famed Sugarloaf Mountain. Today is hazy with quite a few clouds so the temperature feels even cooler. Being on top of Sugarloaf is like being on top of the world and living a dream! The view is fabulous and this is quite a place!
Back down on sea level, I go and see the nearby Praia Vermelho quite crowded as it is Saturday. I have to wait a bit to be able to get a full view of Sugarloaf Mountain because of the mist. Then I hope into a taxi to go to Copacabana and take an afternoon stroll there, starting at the famous Copacabana Palace.
A quiet evening at the hotel.
Day 11 - 19/10. Rio de Janeiro.
Today is my planned trip to Corcovado. It will be quite an adventure!
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| Rio from Corcovado |
There are so many people there. The view is truly fantastic on 3 sides despite a slight haze. But today the sun is scorching. I decide to sit at a cafe terrace to get a bite with a drink, enjoy the view and wait till the light gets better.
Day 12 - 20/10. Flight to Belo Horizonte from Santos Dumont Airport + drive to Ouro Preto, Mina's Gerais.
Early wake-up at 5:30am and breakfast at 7:00am. I leave the hotel a little after 7:30am and take a cab to the airport. Santos Dumont Airport is right downtown on the bay. It only takes 15mn to get there (fare: BRL26).
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| Santos-Dumont Airport |
The flight will be delayed by one hour. From my seat 3A aboard this A319 aircraft, I can see the Sugarloaf Mountain. As the TAM aircraft takes off, we fly over some spectacular sights of Rio de Janeiro bay. Soon, there are clouds on the way to Belo Horizonte. This time, the aircrew serve us a sandwich instead of a simple snack with a drink. The flight only lasts 50mn. Belo Horizonte Airport is also a modern building. I go to the Budget car-rent office to sign for the car to go to Ouro Preto. The girl only speaks Portuguese so I have to do my best to understand the transaction. It works! The tourism bureau gives me some written instruction to find my way to Ouro Preto. It is at about 146km from Confins Airport.
The road takes me to the outskirts of Belo Horizonte, a big, industrial city. Expressways everywhere. After Belo Horizonte, I drive on the Rio expressway for about 20km before turning on the road to Ouro Preto. At first, the landscape is a bit dry and dreary. But once on the road to Ouro Preto, I realize I was on a plateau as we reach mountain valleys on the way down the road. The countryside becomes more interesting. The mountains are covered with tropical forests with spots of flower-trees. At about 20km from Ouro Preto, I stopped for coffee at a roadside cafe. The place is very pleasant. There is a large farm pond in the back with horses and geese. A friendly customer talks to me in English. He was in Kuala Lumpur about a month ago! Anyway, the coffee was good and I also had a piece of cake with it.
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| Ouro-Preto: room panorama |
The room is on the 2nd floor. The view from the window is absolutely stunning. This is a nice hotel and a most interesting site to be.
The air is cool here. And the evening sunlight is magnificent. It is time to go and explore Ouro Preto. And what a charming place it is!
Day 13 - 21/10. Full day in OURO PRETO with an afternoon at MARIANA.
It is a gray day. The temperature has dropped drastically. The view from the room balcony is outstanding.
Breakfast buffet downstairs with two kinds of fresh fruit juices. These are always a treat in this country as they are always freshly squeezed.
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| Ouro-Preto:Town square |
Back to 'Pousada dos Cantos', I venture taking the car out to go and visit Mariana, another historical mining town
at about 20km away from Ouro Preto. The mountain landscape is nice. Mariana has an interesting historical section too. It is not as big as Ouro Preto but worth seeing too once you are in this area. I particularly enjoyed the section around the Central Park with big trees, flowers, a gracious gazebo and row of fine townhouses near. But Ouro Preto remains the jewel in the crown.
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| Mariana: square gazebo |
Quiet end of the day at the pousada till dinner time. Just above, there is a nice local restaurant with a view that offers good food at a reasonable price: 4-cheese lasagna and a Caesar salad with draft beer and mineral water. On top of that, a musician plays life music mostly boss a nova and Brazilian songs. But when he finds out my nationality, he plays a music by Charles Aznavour. And if my understanding of Portuguese is good enough, I understand that he played with him live in São Paulo!
Day 14 - 22/10. Drive back to Belo Horizonte and flight back to Rio de Janeiro-Santos Dumont.
To play safe, I wake up at 5:30am. It is still night and the sky is gray. Daylight starts after 6:00am. Am ready for breakfast at 7:00am and departs at 7:30am. It is the same winding road as on the way down. When you reach the Rio expressway and Belo Horizonte suburbs, it gets a bit tricky. But everything went well. Once on the expressway to Confins Airport, I stopped to fill up the tank with ethanol and since I have lots of time now, for a cup of coffee as well. By 10:30am, I am at the airport and the car has already been returned.
Long wait at Confins Airport. But I can now relax, have some lunch, check-in and refresh in the waiting hall while writing my journal.
The A319 aircraft of TAM leaves on time. Today is partly cloudy. We fly over an open mine before hovering above
Belo Horizonte. They serve drinks and a sandwich on this short flight encounter to Rio. I keep reading two more chapters of 'Rouge Brésil'. It is at the time when the boats have moored on an island in the Bay of Rio. Approaching Rio is spectacular: the mountain range, the Corcovado, the lake, the urban cityscape of this huge city, and then flying low above the bay before landing at Santos-Dumont Airport. The flight was only 50' long.
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| Rio's Imperial Cathedral |
Going to the Novotel is a piece of cake as you only cross a bridge to get there. Some luxury accommodation is always pleasant to have.
I go out soon after to have a quick look at the area. The former Imperial Palace and Cathedral are near the hotel. The XV November Square spreads to the bay with a view of the harbor and some of the islands. In front of the ferry terminal, a group of Samba dancers gives a free acrobatic show with the hard beat of drums. Quite a show!
Time to have a bite and go back to the hotel. It is better not to be out after 8:00pm. It's quite cool here tonight. The temperature is 22ºC.
Day 15 - 23/10. Rio de Janeiro and flight to Florianopolis.
Breakfast at 8:15 in order to go and visit the historic section of Rio de Janeiro. At 9:00am, I am on my way for a walking tour with my Lonely Planet guidebook, my Pentax, and my Samsung.
I cross Avenida Rio Branco to get on a small, shady square where there is a nice Church. The interior is heavily decorated like most of the sanctuaries in the country. I keep on walking in a mix of historical buildings and skyscrapers.Sometimes, I feel like I am back to North America.
Praca Floriano is vast. The Theatro Municipal inspired by the Paris Opera Garnier is a magnificent structure. I
walk on to an open space called Largo da Carioca. There is a metro station under a hill, a nice garden with a souvenir market. I do buy 2 T-shirts and an amethyst crystal. This is a pleasant area of downtown Rio, where the old colonial Portuguese style stands next to the modern constructions. On top of the hill, there is a colonial building called Igreja (Church) São Francisco da Penitencia & Convento de Santo Antonio. The next street I take to the left has lovely colonial houses and is shaded by tall trees. Then I reach another historical square called Praca Tiradentes. This is near an outstanding, ancient library called Real Gabinete Portuguese de Leitura. This is really one of the most fantastic old libraries I have ever seen. The facade is in the Portuguese Manuelian style. The interior is made of wood with thousands of old books in Portuguese! Today is a beautiful, sunny day and the temperature is 28ºC. I keep walking through a commercial part of town till I reach back Av.Rio Branco as far as Av. Presidente Vargas and Praca (Square) Pio X to visit Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Candelaria, the largest church in Rio. Then I go to Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil across the Church, pass in front of Casa Franca-Brasil in order to wander through the narrow cobblestone streets of Travessa do Comercio. This is an old section, where there are now many bars and restaurants with an outside terrace. Back on Praca XV de Novembre, I now go and visit Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo da Antiga Se. It used to be Rio's Cathedral at the time when the Portuguese Kings were exiled here. The interior is also magnificent and most everything is gilded. As a matter of fact, the former Imperial Palace (Paco Imperial) is just across the street on the same square.
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| Inside the reading-room |
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| Galeo Airport |
I leave the hotel and walk back across the pedestrian bridge to Santos-Dumont. The express bus comes soon after. The ride to Galeo Intl. Airport (GIG) costs BRL13.5 per person. It only takes 30' minutes to reach the destination.
It's another airport wait but I am so used to this!
The TAM flight leaves on time. It takes 1h15' for the A320 to reach Florianopolis Airport (FLN). This is a small airport. The Budget booth is not with the other car-rental
companies. So I have to go to the information desk to call them for me. Then it is agreed that someone will come and pick us up with a car near the taxi- stand outside. The office is near but there is a lot of practice. Formalities are done rather easily and I must now drive the Fiat on my own downtown with just a few instructions and a mad I had printed beforehand. Actually, I am able to find the hotel near the Cathedral rather easily despite the fact it is already night time.
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| TAM A-320 |
The hotel has a valet service to park the car. After unpacking, I go out to find a place to have a quick bite. I find a fast-food nearby. It's ok for this time as I want to go to bed soon.
Day 16 - 24/10. Full day in FLORIANOPOLIS: North island tour.
The view from Cecomtur hotel terrace is breathtaking. The dining-room is on 15F. Nice time on another bright, sunny day. Last night the temperature was only 24ºC but today it goes up to 28ºC. Simply delightful. Before driving on my self-organized tour, I decide to walk down to the long-distance bus terminal in order to retrieve my coach tickets.
It gives me the opportunity to get acquainted with this city. The whole downtown section is pedestrian. It's quite nice and confirms this opinion of wealthiness I first had here. The majority of the people is white here. I feel like being somewhere in Europe. There is a nice open market near the waterfront. The bus terminal is very modern and looks and functions like an airport. I get my tickets easily from the bus company office. So by 11:00am, I am on my way to the northern part of the island. There are large expressways and the city waterfront looks absolutely amazing. It is like another Copacabana.
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| Sto.Ant.de Lisboa |
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| Barra da Lagoa |
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| Red sunset sky |
When I go out, the sky is aflame. The sunset has magnificent colors but it only lasts a few seconds. I managed to capture a shot, though. So I drive back to town at night across the mountain. There is a lot of traffic due to the fact it is Friday night. Finding my way back to the hotel takes a while. Not easy because many of the streets are one-way streets or pedestrian.
Day 17 - 25/10. Full day in FLORIANOPOLIS: South Island tour.
Another nice breakfast with a view. This another great day. A few morning clouds but the temperature is a steady 28ºC.
By 9:30am, I am on the road on my way back to Lagoa da Conceiçao first. There is a viewpoint that enables you
to see the panorama of the lakes and the central east coast of the island. Once down in the valley, I choose the road that goes around the other smaller lake called Canto da Lagoa. Driving southwards on the east coast, I make a brief stop at Campeche (reminding me of Mexico). Another nice beach with an island just in front (Ilha do Campeche). Further south, there is another lake, Lagoa do Peri. The lovely village of Armacao is nearby. It is another fishing village from the 18th c. It used to be a whaling center. The church - Igreja Santa Ana - dates back to these days. The beach - Praia da Armaçao - is nice too. There are a few Portuguese fishing boats and lots of fishing nets drying in the sun. I walked to the promontory from where I can see another bay with a fine
beach called Matadeiro. I decide to walk there. For this, you must wade across a small brook. The water is fresh and very clear. The path climbs above the rocks before leading to a pristine, white sandy beach (I collect some sand sample for my collection). There is a nice cafe right on the beach. This is the right spot to have a seafood lunch since it is already past noon. How lovely! I enjoy this trip so much!
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| Viewpoint on the two lakes |
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| Sitting above Matadeiro beach |
After lunch, I walk back to the car and keep on driving to the southernmost point on the east coast. Beautiful landscape of fields with horses and cows with a backdrop of hills covered up with rainforest. I had not imagined BRAZIL like that.
In order to go on the west coast, I must drive back past Armacao to reach the other side of the island. There, the coastal road goes all the way to the south. I stop at Ribeirao da Ilha. This village has kept its Azorean
heritage more than any other island community. On the lovely main square, the church - Igreja NS da Lapa do Ribeirao - dates back to 1806. What a wonderful place this tiny community is! On the waterfront by the beach, there are a few cafes and restaurants. But first, I want to keep on driving along the coast until the end of the road. From here, you can see the mainland very closely. Upon returning to Ribeirao da Ilha, I stop at 'Ostradamus', another stunning coffee shop with a restaurant, whose dining room is on a glass-covered pier above the water. This country is amazing.
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| The Portuguese church |
At about 4:00pm, it is time to drive back to the airport to return the car. This side offers no real interest as it is more urban and commercial. Once, the car is returned to Avis, I take a city bus back to FLORIANOPOLIS. Then I walk back to the hotel. As today is Saturday, the town center is deserted and frequented by drunkards & derelicts like in North America.
Dinner at the hotel 16F with a superb view over the city and the mainland bay.
Day 18 - 26/10. Coach trip to Curitiba.
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| Panorama of Florianopolis |
A taxi takes me to the bus terminal. I go to the bus company VIP room, as I was told to do. There is another set of confusion there as some of the employees ask me to go out. But it is done in an uncourteous way and I refuse to leave pretending not to understand! This is one of the only times, where people have not been acting nicely.
Anyway, the coach leaves on time at 8:30am. I am sitting in a VIP coach on the front row. Very comfortable and quite a pleasant drive up north. We drive past several seaside resorts with tall, slim buildings over beaches: Porto Belo, Balneario Camboriu, Armacao. And then we start going inland to Joinville. All this area is German. We drive on an expressway that goes all the way to São Paulo. People are blond. You don't see many colored people in this area. It looks affluent and truly not what you could have expected. Then after Joinville, the tollway goes into the coastal range. The traffic is heavy with many trucks. It is a rather gray day today. We reach Curitiba on schedule, at about 1:30pm. The distance was about 300km from the island.
I take a taxi to the Ibis-Civico Centro (BRL16). My first impression of CURITIBA is not very positive. Perhaps, it is
because today is Sunday and the town center is rather deserted. The hotel is near the historic center. Many walls are tagged. It looks dirty. On Largo da Ordem, there are more people and a few cafes are open. I have a quick look at all the colonial buildings. But there are many drunkards and derelicts around. I sit at a cafe to get a beer. Beer is really good in Brazil. So cheap too. Next, I go to Praça Tiradentes where the Cathedral stands. The same first impression persists. So I decide to go
to the park near the hotel. Passeio Publico is lovely. Many people there and I feel safer. I sit at a cafe before taking a stroll in this nice park. Trees are tall and of different kinds. There is a beautiful alley of jacarandas. They even have a mini zoo with lots of South American birds.
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| Downtown colonial architecture |
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| The cathedral |
Then I go back to the nearby hotel room for a while to rest. At dinner time, I go out again to the nearby shopping mall. It's freezing! The temperature is probably no more than 16ºC! I will learn later that Curitiba is known for its cold temperature because it is in the mountains at about 700m high. Dinner at the mall at an Italian restaurant. But the food wasn't too good despite the nice environment.
Day 19 - 27/10. Full day in CURITIBA & evening departure to Foz do Iguacu.
- Lazy morning at the hotel. I can keep the room till 1:00pm. I sleep till past 8:38am and go for breakfast an hour later. Then, back to the room, I edit my pictures, check my mail, and catch up with many other things. This trip has been so intense already.
- An afternoon's visits to town. The impression is slightly better today. It is Monday. Many people in the streets
and shops are open. On my way to the Cathedral, I find a lovely cafe, called 'Café Catedral'. The staff is charming. They offer a quiche with a salad for BRL10. There is a gigantic map of the world with a few stickers. I will learn they are visitors from all over the world. I am asked to add my name on Thailand.
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| At Café Catedral |
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| The glasshouse at Botanical Garden |
In the evening around 8:00pm, I eat a little something at the bus station before the departure. The coach leaves on schedule at 9;00pm. It is a double-decker and the VIP seats are on the first level. The seats recline and are comfortable. Unfortunately, later that night, I will get seasick so the trip won't be as smooth as I thought it would be.
Day 20 - 28/10. Full day at FOZ do IGUAÇU.
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| Ibis, Foz do Iguaçu |
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| Brazilian Falls panorama |
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| Above one of the falls |
Then I return to town and enjoy a quiet end of the afternoon. There are many nice bars around the Ibis. So in the evening, I go for a draft beer. It has been a very hot day. I am very thirsty and the beer is great and very cheap in this country. Dinner at 'Laos' lounge bar with Asian food.
Day 21 - 29/10. Three countries in one day + transfer to Puerto Iguazu to see the Falls from ARGENTINA.
- 8:00am : city bus to go to Ciudad del Este in PARAGUAY. No need to get a passport
to be there. Lots of traffic on the bridge to reach the border. Ciudad del Este is a mix of modern buildings (some unfinished) and third-world shacks. It has no real interest. This place is a commercial hub mainly for electronics. I just wanted to be in Paraguay and see with my own eyes.
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| Bridge to Paraguay |
- Around 11:00 am : leave the Ibis in Foz do Iguacu to take another city bus to Puerto Iguazu in ARGENTINA. This is a quick ride. At the Brazilian border, I must get off the bus to go to the immigration post and then take the next bus as the guidebook had mentioned it. The formality is quick. A few kilometers after the bridge over the river, we reach the Argentine immigration post. But this time, the bus waits for its passengers. The formality is done quickly by an officer equipped with a computer terminal. Very simple & quick. Not even any queue because there are just a few passengers. The luggage is examined electronically like at any airport. I am now in Argentina, 3rd country for today.
Puerto Iguazu is made of low houses scattered in much greenery. It looks so different from Foz do Iguacu in Brasil. The hotel is only a walking distance away from the bus terminal. It is just ok and convenient.
I walk around the city. Not much to attract any interest. First, I go back to the bus terminal in order to validate my two bus sectors. Then, I change the rest of my Br. Regales at a money changer before looking for an ATM machine. The first bank I find does not seem to work. I ask the staff. They are not too helpful. So I will look for another bank. It works at Makro ATM. Good. I can now have something to eat across the street. I realize that Argentine time is one hour ahead of Brazil. This is great. It will provide more time to go to the
National Park to see the Falls. I buy the ticket at the bus terminal Tourist Office. The RT is only ARP80. It is a good distance away from town to get to the Park entrance. There the entry fee is ARP215. This is not the price given by the latest 'guide du Routard'. But the country is going through a financial crisis.
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| Upper falls |
Anyway, I am there sitting into a small chew-chew train across the park to reach the trails to the Falls.
There are two trails. The upper one and a lower one. I choose to follow the upper one first. You need to walk through the forest. More than on the Brazilian side. Actually, 1/3 of the Falls are in Brazil and another 2/3 are in Argentina. And what a sight! It's even more impressive than on the other side and so much bigger! I will describe this in a future article. Because right now, I have no words to describe this awesome sight! The lower trail is as interesting to do with a different angle. It will take all afternoon to cover everything. In Brazil, it takes about 2h. But here you must take 5 to 6h to do it all! Never ever seen anything like this! Absolutely mesmerizing!
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| Lower falls |
When I go back to Puerto Iguazu, it is already the evening. I go back to the hotel to take a shower and refresh for a while before going out for dinner.
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| An amazing vision |
- Great Argentinian dinner at 'A Pacero' restaurant near the bus terminal. Open terrace on first floor and live music from Argentina. Great food: I chose an Argentinian Bar-B-Que with ice-cold beer since they don't have any wine. Too bad.
Day 22 - 30/10. Full morning in Puerto Iguazu & coach ride to 'Mission' area in the afternoon.
- Lazy relaxing morning. Good after so much traveling for over 3 weeks already. I wake up later than usual and have a later breakfast. Then I go out for a walk to the outskirts of town to see the way of life here. The first impression of the 3rd world remains after being in Brazil. Anyway, I go to the riverbank until I reach a viewpoint near The Panoramic Hotel. Perched on top of a hill, it has a good view of the River Valley, the rainforest and a view of the 3 countries meeting point: Argentina, Brazil & Paraguay.
- Light lunch at the bus terminal and it is time to board the coach at 12:45PM for San Ignacio. It is a comfortable double-decker. I sit on the upper floor. Not many people aboard. Good service including a snack and a drink of Coke. Later, even candies like aboard an airplane. But it does not look very clean. Again, this is different from Brazil.
- This region is covered with a dense rainforest. The coach stops at all the outposts, some with a name like 'Jardin das Americas' or 'Eldorado'. This is a major woodcutting area with many wood factories. Further south of
Puerto Iguazu, there is a big lake. I am also amazed at seeing so may pine-tree forests along the narrow strip of the road. Eventually, the rainforest recedes a bit. This is a hillside countryside and there are big fields with cows and later with fruit orchards. I think at one point, we drove past an orange grove full of oranges reminding me of Tunisia. It takes over 4 hours to reach the 'Missiones' area. We arrive at San Lorenzo at about 5:30PM after about 240km south of Puerto Iguazu. I take a taxi to get to the hostel. It only costs ARP35. We had some rain on the way down but it is clearing up here with a promise of a good sunset ahead. San Lorenzo Adventure Hostel will do for today. There is a big tropical garden with a nice swimming-pool. The room is just ok but has all the usual comfort amenities. I will get a mountain bike to try to get over the hills and get a view of the sunset. But first, I go for a quick walking e proration of this little town, which is not unpleasant. Yes, the sunset was worth seeing. I stood on a viewpoint above the forest and the Parana River, watching the sun go down over the hills of Paraguay,
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| At San Ignacio |
- The girl at the reception is from Lausanne. And I meet an older French lady from Plan de Cuques near Marseilles! I have dinner at the hostel with a bottle of an excellent Argentinean red wine.
Day 23 - 31/10. Full day at San Ignacio and evening departure to Buenos Aires.
- Another relaxing day. The room must be vacated by 10:00am but I can stay and use all the facilities till I leave in
the evening. The breakfast is rather grim here. No fruit juice, no fruits, and coffee is tasteless. Anyway, I use the mountain bike to go to San Ignacio Mini. This Jesuit Mission was founded 400 years ago. It was for the Guarani Indians, who once lived in long houses like in Borneo and ate humans. At one time this micro social community had 4,500 inhabitants. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Quite interesting to visit although it is mostly in ruins.
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| Door to cathedral |
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| The Mission |
- Lunch at a restaurant near the ruins. The food was not great. At the little souvenir shop next to the restaurant, I find a few more little gemstones to complete the collection from Ouro Preto. (2 for 10 Pesos. I buy 4).
- Too hot to go anywhere else. I spend a relaxing afternoon at the hostel enjoying the garden and even a fresh
swim into the pool.Then at about 4:00pm, I return the mountain bike and walk back to the hostel. While at the bike station, a lady comes to talk with me in Spanish. She asked me if it was secured to go with a bike here. She is traveling with a coach that has come here for a refreshing stop. She tells me that she is from Mendoza and that there it wouldn't be safe to go biking. And then she switches to talk about Argentina saying that this is a rich land but that the government does not distribute the money properly. Pointing at some Guarani Indians, she added that these people were the real owners of this land but at the end had absolutely nothing. Quite an interesting exchange coming from an elderly white Argentine woman! A taxi picks me up at about 5:00pm to go to the bus terminal. I had my first misadventure at the cafe when I realized I had forgotten my cellphone, which I had been charging. I quickly took a taxi to go back to the hostel. The taxi-driver was nice and had a Peugeot 206. I only paid ARP35 for the quick RT ride. I got my cell phone and charger back!
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| At the hostel pool |
- As I came back to the station, there was a terrible storm for about 15 to 20 minutes. The VIP coach arrived 30 min after schedule. In the meantime, I met a young French couple from Brittany that had just arrived on a previous bus. I gave them a few tips on San Ignacio and it was time to board the bus.
- Great ride with a super service. Large, black leather seats that can be converted to a flat bed like aboard an
aircraft with a service comparable to a business class. We make a stop at Posadas, about 55km south of San Ignacio. This is a big city on Rio Parana and a border town with Paraguay. They service the coach at the terminal. A false blond, long-haired hostess with a mini-skirt will take care of the non-stop service to Buenos Aires. Drinks are first served on the way out and then dinner comes with a glass of red wine. The food was good. This is a long journey to the south scheduled to last 14 hours. But this is of excellent quality and comfort.
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| Coach VIP section |
Day 24 - 01/11. Buenos Aires (day 1)
A new day starts some hundreds of kilometers southwards. Breakfast is served with orange juice and fresh hot coffee. It is another gray day. We arrive at Retiro bus terminal at 8:30. I am in shorts and I feel the cold here! The luggage attendant is not very nice and I have a few words with him. Too bad for him, he lost the tip I was about to give him.
There is a taxi waiting outside the station. The driver is quite nice and very talkative. After asking where I am from, he starts describing what we see on the way. The British built the railroad system in this country. The Rail Station is huge. The taxi- driver says it is the biggest in the world. Right in front the English Tower is a reminder of Big Ben in London. Well, sort of! We drive past magnificent buildings that look so French. One is the Brazilian Embassy and the next is the French Embassy. It could be in Paris. Next, we drive down the Avenue of July 9 with the Obelisk in the distance. This is a landmark of Buenos Aires. The driver says it is the widest in the world with 8 lanes for cars on each side! Then, finally, we turn to the narrow streets of Micro Centro, the commercial district of the capital. This is where El Conquistador Hotel is. But I have to walk a block further because the road the taxi wanted to turn into is under construction. The guy is sorry and apologizes.
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| The Obelisk |
The feeling of being in Paris stays on the shops, the buildings, the doors, the cafes... The only difference is the trees and the perpendicular layout of streets. The hotel has an excellent location. Everything is at a walking distance. I walk down the Avenida del 9 de Julio ( date of Argentina Independence Day) as far as the Obelisk, which stands as a commemoration of the founding of Buenos Aires. Then, crossing the avenue, I reach a large pedestrian street that leads to a large and beautiful square, where Teatro Colon stands. Modeled after the Opera Garnier, it was designed by an Italian architect. It took 20 years to build it. And this massive construction is the 3rd largest in the world after Paris & Vienna. I go to the lobby to inquire about visits. I decide to go tomorrow at 2:00PM as they offer a tour in English.
After that, I go back to the hotel to change my room. I got a beautiful double room on the 4th floor with an open roof bay window. Excellent! I will be here for the next 5 days.
I take another stroll in another area nearby. The feel of being in Paris remains. This is really a magnificent city. I understand why it is often nicknamed 'the Paris of South America'. This is why Argentine famous writers like Julio Cortazar or Luis Borges felt so much at home being in Paris. The Plaza San
Martin is splendid. Surrounded by European buildings, the square is planted with Jacarandas, Magnolias, Cedars and Rubber Trees. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs is on one corner. A splendid piece of architecture that could well be in Paris. In the middle of the main square, there is an equestrian statue of the Libertador San Martin, who gave the name to this square. On another side, there is a viewpoint over the lower part of the city on Torre de Los Ingleses and the Rail Station. I keep on walking in these classy city streets back to Avenida del 9 Julio in order to go and see the French &
Brazilian Embassies at the beginning of Recoletta. The Jockey Club is another fine construction. What a beautiful city! On my way back to the hotel, I sit at a cafe on the Avenue of 9 of July to get a coffee,
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| Plaza San Martin |
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| Galerias Pacifico |
In the evening, I walk in Micro Centro area and take Calle Florida, a pedestrian city street where most of the shopping is done. I reach Galerias Pacifico a wonderful shopping gallery with designer shops, cafes, and other luxurious premises. It has been inspired by Bon Marche in Paris. The Centro Cultural Borges is there. I see that they hold daily tango shows. I plan to come tomorrow night at 7:30PM.
It has now started to rain a little. The temperature is of 14C. Since the hotel provides a welcome drink, I sit for a while at the bar with a glass of another excellent red, Argentinean wine. The waitress is from Milan. I get dinner at a Chilean restaurant near the hotel. Nothing special there. Lifestyle in Buenos Aires is more expensive than in the north.
Day 25 - 02/11. Full day in Buenos Aires (day 2)
Rainy day with a temperature of 16C. I wake up a bit later and have breakfast on the 10F at 9:00AM. The rain will hamper my plans for today. I end up going to Galerias Pacifico and have coffee at Starbucks there. I walk after
to Teatro Colon thinking of taking the 2:00PM English tour. But it is sold out! I buy tickets for Tuesday 1:00PM instead. So I decide to have a snack at the Theater coffee shop.
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| Teatro Colon |
Then I hail a taxi to go to La Boca. This is quite a place to be. So colorful! It has a Bohemian charm like
Montmartre in Paris. On top of that, they have a few Tango shows at cafes. Nice to watch. The rain starts. I find an old cafe with great character to sit and relax. There are 3 French on a table next to mine. I try to engage a conversation but they are obviously not interested. When it is time to go back, the rain is heavier. I have the heck of a time to get a taxi. Soaked to the bones, I finally get one. I prepared the money in advance. The taxi-driver pretends I gave a 2-Peso bill instead of 50! Another taxi scam.
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| At La Boca |
I spend the rest of the evening at the hotel due to the rain. I even have dinner at the restaurant and order pasta tonight.
Day 26 - 03/11. A trip to MONTEVIDEO in Uruguay via Colonia.
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| Aboard the ferry |
At Colonia, I was hoping to be able to catch a later coach in order to visit the historic site classified as a UNESCO World Heritage. But this is not possible. I must board the coach to Montevideo immediately. Anyway, it is raining heavily.
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| Green pastures under the rain |
The road gives way to an expressway till we reach the capital. Colonia is about 156km away from Montevideo. The distance is covered in about 2h30'. The Buquebus coach stops at Montevideo bus station. It is still raining and it is about 3km from downtown. After inquiring at the Tourist Office, I was told which bus to take to go downtown. I also got a city map and a sightseeing brochure. When I stop in the town center, I decide to buy an umbrella at a kiosk. Better this way. Montevideo appears to be quite a monumental city as well, a bit on the model of Buenos Aires. The Plaza de la Libertad is quite imposing. I
continue to the historic part using a pedestrian street. On another smaller square, I visit the Cathedral and enjoy the square with a nice fountain. Further on, I stop at a nice coffee shop called 'Jacinto' to get a hot coffee and a piece of carrot cake. WiFi is everywhere in South America. This is great.
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| Plaza de la Libertad |
I spend the rest of the afternoon exploring Montevideo. I go to the seaside Rambla. But under the rain, it is not too great. At the port, I inquire where I must take the boat back in the evening. Then I go to the Harbor Market. Nearby, there is a bar called 'Manila Bar' catering for the Filipino sailors. Since the rain has now stopped, I decide to go back to Liberty Square since I have time to kill. Then, near the square, at the beginning of the pedestrian street, I find this stunning bookstore, which I decide to visit and take pictures of. They have a coffee shop on the upper floor. So I decide to stay here for a while.
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| Itinerary map |
So, I am on my long way back to Buenos Aires. It only takes 2h this time. The ferry is different. Older and not so great. In the business lounge, they greet us with a glass of Champagne!
And due to the time difference between Uruguay and Argentina, I am not back to the room till midnight.
Day 27 - 04/11. Full day in Buenos Aires (day 3)
After two days of rain, the sun is shining again. Gorgeous day with a deep, blue sky. Everything looks different. Breakfast on the 10F with a sunny view over the roofs of Buenos Aires. The rest of the morning will be partly spent at the hotel. Partly only because I had to go back to the Buquebus Terminal. In Montevideo, they gave me a voucher to compensate for the cancellation of the ferry back to Buenos Aires. What they failed to tell me was that it was not meant for a cash refund. I learned that at the Ferry Terminal after taking a taxi. It had taken me 20' to get to the port. They made me wait not so graciously for a while before letting me know! I was not so happy... And I let them know about this!
So I decided to walk back to El Conquistador Hotel and play the role of a modern conquistador to explore this section of Buenos Aires called Micro Centro. It only took me 15' to be back. But it was already time to go to Teater Colon. I had booked an English tour scheduled for 01:00PM.
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| Interior of Teatro Colón |
Anyway, the tour lasts about one hour and this is worth it! It took 20 years to build it 160 years ago. All the material was imported from Europe, including Carrara marble from Italy. They wanted to show that Buenos Aires was a modern city that could compete with other European cities. The tour includes the entrance hall, the staircase, the foyer and of course an extraordinary opera hall that can hold as many as 4,000 people. The acoustics are exceptional. We also visited the Presidential Lodge and another front stage lodge.
After the visit, I had lunch at a nearby restaurant next to Teatro Cervantes. I had planned to visit Recoleta for
the rest of the afternoon.So I took a long stroll in this area of Buenos Aires that looks even more like Paris. How urban and beautiful this city is! After crossing a lovely square, I took a shaded street covered with a leafy roof past Recoleta Mercado. My destination was the cemetery and its adjacent church & former convent. There is a nice & modern shopping center called with Recoleta Mall with many cafes and restaurant. A bookstore holds a Starbucks corner, where I sit for a while. This area is really lovely. It is on top of a hill with a large park having cafes on one side and the large cemetery on the other. I am not so much into visiting cemeteries. But this one is a must. Not only historical but extraordinarily historical. It is the Buenos Aires version of the Paris-Père Lachaise. Or I could add the cimetière Montparnasse in Paris where my paternal grandparents are buried. Actually, Recoleta Cemetery is not really made of tombs but rather of family mausoleums displaying awesome works of art. There are many French names here testifying of the varied immigration status of Argentina. But I mostly came to see Eva Peron's tomb. The guidebook said it was not easy to find. I come across a group of French visitors having a French-guided tour of the cemetery. I listen for a while and ask where to find Eva Peron's tomb. It is close by and actually many other visitors come to see it as well.
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| Eva Peron's tomb |
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| Recoleta Church |
I decide to come back here by taxi later in the evening as this is my last evening in South America. In the meantime, I walk back to the hotel using a different route.
In the evening, I have another Argentinian grilled meat dinner at 'Montana' restaurant. The food is good but the service is slow and definitively needs improving. I end up in a cozy pub with some red Argentinian wine. Lovely last evening in Buenos Aires.
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| At Montana's Argentinian grill |
Day 28 - 05/11. Full day in Buenos Aires (day 4) + evening departure to São Paulo.
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| "The Pink House" |
Today, I want to go in the area between the Obelisk and Puerto Maduro. First, I go back to Calle Florida, the long pedestrian commercial street. I do a little bit of shopping. Around Plaza de Mayo, there seem to be protests going on but I don't know for which reason.This is another monumental part of town that seems to be a financial hub as well.
Plaza de Mayo is gorgeous. The large pink building is the Government House. In view of the riot police squadron, you can tell that something is going on.
Anyway, after I make my way to Puerto Maduro after asking how to get there as my city map does not tell me
how to reach it properly. And this is another lovely part of Buenos Aires. Definitively more modern but with a large river promenade, a great view and cafes or restaurants on the riverbanks. I sit for lunch at a very classy & contemporary place. The rest of the afternoon will be spent to enjoy, the fresh air (it is 28ºC), the view and the sun until it is time to walk back to the hotel to wait for the airport transfer.
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| Puerto Maduro |
The driver is here a little before 6:30PM. Due to the traffic, it will take us an hour to reach Ezra Airport (ARL300, flat rate). This airport is far away from downtown. It is only so so and not exactly what you would expect from such a big metropolis. I read Buenos Aires had 13M inhabitants. But I need to check this out too.
I am lucky to get a window front seat all the way to Doha.The flight leaves on time at 23:20. Not so many passengers on this first leg to São Paulo. It takes 2 hours for the Qatar Boeing 777-200LR to touch down at Guarulhos Airport. It is misty here. We are supposed to stay 60' before flying on. But a technical problem holds us up for a couple of hours. There is an entire change of crew for this sector.
Day 29 - 6/10. Aboard Qatar Airways flight São Paulo - Doha.
We left on Nov.05 but I won't be back to Bangkok until Nov. 07. So this will be a short day spent entirely on board
due to the change of time from west to east.
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| QR flight route from GRU to DOH |
Aboard these long flights passengers are really pampered. We had a dinner served between Buenos Aires & São Paulo. Then on the long haul between São Paulo & Doha, they served two meals, a breakfast, delivered a snack, an ice cream, drinks very often beside providing a bottle of water. At the rear end of the aircraft, the pantry is always open for drinks or snacks. On this leg west to east, we gain an hour of flying time due to the jet stream. It took 13h20 to fly from GRU to DOH aboard a B772-LR.
Because of the delay in São Paulo, we arrive late at Hamad Airport in Doha...
Day 30 - 7/11. Flight Doha - Bangkok.
No time to rest. The previously scheduled flight to BKK had already left. Transit passengers are ushered to the next departing flight to BKK aboard a B773-ER. This flight will be 5h50 long.
Total flying time from EZE to BKK: 21h10min
- End of a fabulous trip -
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| A full itinerary for the entire journey |
Sent from my iPad Chris Sorand
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