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Thursday, December 4, 2014

'The Switzerland of the Northeast'

Wang Nam Khiao district on the northeastern side of Khao Yai National Park
Lam Pra Plerng lake
Hill resort park
  Until recently, I had not heard of this area. It is not mentioned in guidebooks (and maybe after all this is good sign). However, if you ask the Thais, they all know about this area. I guess foreign tourists do not come to Thailand to see another Switzerland! The exotic side of the country is more appealing for sure. And yet, when you live in Thailand this area might just be what sounds exotic to you!

The so called 'Switzerland of Isan' is just an eastbound continuation of Khao Yai, in the southern portion of Nakhon Ratchasima Province. It is in the district of Wang Nam Khiao (which means 'the green pond' in Thai).

From Pak Chong, at the entrance of Khao Yai National Park, to the eastern town of Wang Nam Khiao, the distance is of about 70 kilometres. The road is truly scenic and runs along the northern side of the Sankamphaeng mountain range. 

Water fountain at Toscana
  The first part of the road seems to be overdeveloped by greedy promoters, who have no limit to their exuberance. In the long run, it might have a  negative impact on the landscape. Appealing to the Thai sense of exoticism, the trend is clearly south European. So, after driving past the 'Chateau De Khaoyai', which looks like a country French manor house, you reach an awesome site called 'Toscana' - or sometimes 'Thaiscana'  - a tribute to Tuscany. It seems that the Thais are now following the steps of what Americans have been doing for years: to recreate what exists in Italy or somewhere else in Europe. The difference is that Thai people usually have good  taste. They don't go for the Hollywood or Las Vegas fake. They want something that truly transports you to the place it is supposed to be. 'Toscana' is indeed an amazing reproduction and a close flavour of the Italian Tuscany.

Hill pond
  Nevertheless, the rest of the road that goes to Wang Nam Khiao is very different. There, you know why Thais have nicknamed this gorgeous area 'the Switzerland of the Northeast'.
This is a region of high rolling hills. It is blessed by a cool climate all year round. There are rivers, ponds, lakes, and lasting morning mists, which make its natural beauty. This is a rich farmland that grows corn, sugar-cane, or even grapes - as Thailand is now slowly entering the circle of wine producers. The Shiraz grape is obviously adapting well to the climate. As you drive along, you will see meadows where cows are grazing, sometimes horses as well. Due to its cooler micro climate, there are many orchards producing tiny mandarines, pomelos, strawberries or what seems to be the king of all fruits in this region, the monkey-apple. This variety is small, oblong with a green skin and tastes a bit like a juicy green apple. The local farms also make organic vegetable plantations. There are all kinds of flowers too, some quite unusual at this latitude like the sunflowers or the chrysanthemums. Roses and orchids are everywhere.
Lakeshore flowers
As you get closer to Wang Nam Khiao, resorts or homesteads increase in numbers. Avoid weekends because many Thais come and stay here at that time.

Once you reach Lam Pra Plerng Reservoir, the landscape becomes even more attractive. The drive along the lake is very scenic with a backdrop of mountain. And then you start going on a roller coaster over hills and dales. It is time to leave the main road and take one of the many tiny country roads, where you can see scores of lovely and secluded resorts set in a bucolic landscape. There are two main tourist attractions in this area:

- A Cup of Love, a resort, a coffeeshop and a sheep farm (all the websites are in Thai).
- The Flora Park, which seems to be a high spot local destination in view of all the cars and buses! (The websites are also in Thai).
  • There are also a few places, where you can stop for coffee along the way. One good address is Khun Chef Bistro & Wine Garden (Tel. 081 8368717 / Facebook site ). It is not simply a nice & cool place to stop for coffee or drinks - eventually with some delicious pastries or homemade sherbets - but also to have lunch or dinner as it is a well-known place recommended by TripAdvisor. The Thai chef & owner used to work in Belgium before. 
Khun Chef open restaurant 
Khun Chef garden cafe
  • Along the lakeshore of Lam Pra Plerng, there are a few charming, little resorts. One even offers Dao Coffee and operates like an urban coffeeshop having a terrace with a view on the lake and the surrounding landscape. Further afield, you may stop and visit a vast uphill field planted with strawberries.  And, yes they do sell them at their farm stall! Holy cow, aren't they delicious!
    Strawberry farm

  • If you are an adept of camping or do not reject the idea of spending the night in a tent, many resorts also offer this alternative. For about 400B/person a night they provide tent, material and breakfast. I opted for this option on a Saturday evening after looking for a resort to stay. Leaving the main road and turning into a lovely country road, we reached a pleasant resort on top of a steep hill. Even though, this was a secluded place, it was fully booked by a group of Thais. The owner offered to pitch a tent on top of the hill facing a great 180º panorama with a sunset/sunrise view. Hard to refuse! 

Camping with a view
Hill garden view


A nature park













  • Danhill café & resort is one of my favorite. It was also fully booked during the weekend, so we came back on Sunday afternoon... and we had the whole place to ourselves. The restaurant is facing Lam Pra Plerng lake. The bungalows are in the back around a wonderful Thai garden set on a gentle slope and offering a partial view on the landscape. They have no WiFi, so their sign says: 'Sorry, no WiFi, talk to each other'! However, their mountain bikes and their canoes are free of charge. They even have a small jetty across the road from where you can watch either sunrise or sunset.
A flowery garden
 
Lakeshore at sunset
Danhill Resort bungalow
Danhill Resort Thai Garden
The district of Wang Nam Khiao may not be a traditional image of Thailand. However, it is   a resolutely green & beautiful area that appeals to senses & relaxation. And the good thing is that it is only a mere three-hour's drive away from Bangkok.


Useful websites:                      
Hill waterhole
Personal links:



Christian Sorand
Lake panorama at sunset

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