In Italy & southern France
from May 30 to June 16, 2016
This is the time of the year when I fly back to Europe to visit my family and my friends. It is also the time when I like to take a side trip as spring is a quiet and pleasant season to go and visit places.
As my sister and her husband are traveling to Italy, I decided to join them in Florence and travel with them both for a few days before driving back to Provence.
DAY 1 - 30/05. Flight to ROME.
4:45AM: at this early hour, it is fast to get a taxi and be at the airport in less than 30 min. It is still pitch dark but it is worth to be at the terminal before all the usual traffic.
Check-in at Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok
9:00PM - The hotel I chose to stay is very close to the railroad station: a mere 5 minutes walk. Many restaurants around. The hotel is convenient, nice and very clean, in an old building. I felt like having a bite and I went next door to have an Indian mutton biryani! .. When in Rome, do as the Romans do!
6:00AM- Wake-up time in order to get ready for breakfast at 7:30AM and off to my own walking tour of Rome.
Il Vittoriano (Victor Emmanuel II monument) & Piazza Venezia.
Lago di Torre Argentina : new coffee break with an Italian gelato before heading back to the hotel.
08:20AM - scheduled departure but the train arrives ten minutes later.
Upon arriving at the station, I stop for a coffee before proceeding to walk to the hotel across the paved roads of Florence old city.
4:45AM: at this early hour, it is fast to get a taxi and be at the airport in less than 30 min. It is still pitch dark but it is worth to be at the terminal before all the usual traffic.
Check-in at Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok
The counter was not yet open when I was there. But as soon as the attendants were there, it was done promptly. By using my points, I was upgraded to business class all the way to Rome.
THAI AIRWAYS ROYAL SILK lounge.
6:30AM: Time for some light breakfast now while waiting for the boarding time.
QATAR AIRWAYS business class flight to DOHA (1st leg)
What a treat to be able to travel in business class aboard Qatar Airways A380-800 bound for Doha ! No hassle. No squeeze between other passengers. Freedom of movement and a 5-star service of excellence. I have fully enjoyed this first leg of the trip : breakfast with Champagne, choice of music, reading, escape to the bar lounge, a nap on a full bed in the quietness of the cabin, and later on a snack of selected cheeses with a glass of red Argentinean wine. It was raining a little over the overcast skies of Bangkok this morning. But soon after takeoff, the aircraft flew above the clouds and it became sunny again. Great service onboard with few passengers in this cabin.
Flying time to Doha [DOH] : 6h10'
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| The giant Teddy bear at HIA |
Temperature : 40ºC
Stopover at Hamad International Airport, Doha.
Al Mourjan Lounge at HIA is one of the most outstanding business lounges I have ever seen. Usually, in the evening, HIA is a very busy place. But today, at midday, it is quieter than usual. And the huge Al Mourjan Lounge looks really empty and very quiet.
QATAR AIRWAYS business class flight to ROME (2nd leg)
This flight was delayed at take off in Doha. The A330-200 business class does not have the same luxurious amenities as aboard the A380-800. The seat next to mine (nº2A) is empty. Actually, the business class is not even half full. The flight attendants are extremely helpful and do not hesitate to engage in conversation to get to know their passengers. Food and beverages are fine and again worth a 5-star restaurant. I start with a Miso soup followed by a classic Arabic mezze. My main course choice is for a lamb loin with herb crust and rosemary jus. I opt to drink a Shiraz Kangarilla Road 2013 from McLaren Vale in Australia.
During this flight, I relaxed, managed to get some more sleep, listened to music and read my Lonely-Planet mini guide of Rome.
Flying time to Rome : 5h40'
Temperature : 21ºC at 7:30PM
During this flight, I relaxed, managed to get some more sleep, listened to music and read my Lonely-Planet mini guide of Rome.
Arrival at Fiumicino Airport, Rome.
The approach to Fiumicino was spectacular as the aircraft flew over the hills, the Roman countryside, the city of Rome with its meandering Tiber and a dwarfed sight of St.Peter's, and finally a lake and the coast of the Mediterranean.
The business class passengers have whisked away to the terminal. Formalities and luggage reception were quick and I was on my way to the train station ready to get to downtown Rome.
Leonardo Express to Termini station, Rome.
A single ticket to Rome central Termini station costs 14euros. The journey takes about half an hour.
Luckily, the next direct express was already there and about to leave.
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| Sta.Maria Maggiore |
Hotel Serena, Rome.
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| From station to hotel |
But since I was near Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, I walked there to take a few night shots of this church.
DAY 2 - 31/05. ROME, the Eternal City.
As I am only staying for one full day, I made my own walking tour of Rome, having been there 3 times before. So, I have divided my day into two main sections each having a clear objective : first, I wanted to revisit the interior of the Colosseum in the morning ; then, in the afternoon, I wanted to go back to Piazza Navona, as it is my favorite Roman square.
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| Panorama of the Colosseum |
Morning's walk from Esquilino to Ancient Rome
8:30AM – I start the day after breakfast on Via Cavour past Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore with my camera attached to
the wrist blipping anything that gets my eye.
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| Moses by Michelangelo |
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli : Michelangelo's Moses statue & St. Peter's chains.
Esquiline Hill.
Colosseum & Arco di Constantino (Constantine's Arch) : to my surprise, queuing up is a real piece of cake to get a ticket (12 euros).
Around 10:30AM : coffee break in front of the amphitheater at Caffé La Bio.
Then, I continue walking on Via dei Fori Imperiali along the Roman Forum to Colonna di Traiano (Trojan's Column).
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| The Pantheon |
Along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II towards Piazza di San Pantaleo in the historic center (Centro Storico).
Piazza Navona : with its 3 Bernini's majestic fountains : Fontana del Moro, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi & Fontana del Nettuno.
Around 1:00PM : lovely Italian lunch at Saltimbocca's with a friendly service and the best spaghetti carbonara ever ! An espresso at the end, of course ! This is when I decide to alter my plan with a theme after consulting back my Lonely Planet mini guidebook. I will dedicate the rest of the day to Piazzas of Rome.
Afternoon's walking from Centro Storico to Monti & Esquilino
Piazzi di Roma
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| Piazza Navona |
Around 2:00PM – back to Piazza Navona, my starting point.
Campo de' Fiori with its colorful market.
Piazza Farnese with Palazzo Farnese, one of Rome's most beautiful palaces, home of the French Embassy.
Piazza della Rotonda & the Pantheon.
Piazza di Sant' Ignazio Loyola, to admire the trompe l'œil ceiling fresco inside the Jesuit church.
Piazza della Minerva with its Elefantino statue & Egyptian obelisk.
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| Palazzo del Quirinale |
At this point of time, I start returning to Esquilino via a different way using the hill of Monti to see one more piazzi and visiting the interior of two churches near the hotel Serena and Termini rail station.
Piazza de Quirinale with the Palazzo del Quirinale, home of the Italian President, reached at the time of changing guards.
On the way downhill to Esquilino, I passed by the massive Palazzo delle Esposizioni (Exhibition Palace).
Visit of Chiesa di Santa Prassede, a church famous for its brilliant mosaics.
Then, I stop for another cool drink to refresh on Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore before going inside the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, another imposing Roman church.
Past 5:00PM : return to the hotel. I had planned to go out somewhere else but was too tired.
8:30PM : dinner at the same next door Indian restaurant.
Late in the evening, I took another walk to Piazza dela Reppublica in order to take a few more night shots of Rome.
DAY 3 - 01/06. ROME to FLORENCE.
Early morning breakfast before checking out of the Hotel Serena and walking to the nearby Termini station.
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| From Rome Termini to Florence |
TRENITALIA fast train to Florence.
10:01AM: arrival at Firenze S. M. Novella station after a smooth ride across the Italian rolling hill countryside.
FIRENZE (Florence)
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| Ponte Vecchio, Florence |
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| From station to Hotel Paris |
Hotel Paris is half way between the central station and the Cathedral. It is an old Florentine palace dating from the Renaissance. As the room will not be available till 2:00PM, I leave the luggage at the hotel and go on an exploratory walking tour of Florence on this 3rd visit.
The Piazza del Duomo is near. Very crowded at this time of day. I admire the
cathedral façade, the elegant campanile, and the Baptistry's doors. Walking on Via del Calzaiuoli, I reach the iconic Piazza della Signoria with its Palazzo Vecchio and its Loggia dei Lanzi (named for the Swiss bodyguards). I stand by Michelangelo's statue of David and by Benvenuto Cellini's bronze statue of Perseus before entering Palazzo Vecchio's courtyard. Next, I cross the Uffizi Gallery swarmed with street artists and reached the banks of the Arno River. The famed Ponte Vecchio is close. I cross the bridge to the other side of the Arno and start looking for a place to eat. Leaving the main street, I found a great restaurant full of local atmosphere, called Trattoria Bardino.
After lunch, I crossed back the Ponte Vecchio and turned left on Lungarno Acciaiuoli on the bank of the Arno till Ponte Santa Trinita. There, I turned right onto Via Tornabuoni, the Florentine designers'
street, all the way back to the hotel. It rained a little in the afternoon making the temperature cools down substantially. Later on, I went out again to go to Palazzo Strozzi, the Piazza della Repubblica, turning right on Via Roma and then back on Piazza della Signoria to have a look at Café Gucci and finally choose to sit at Café Rivoire with a view on the Palazzo Vecchio. It was the right time to taste their famous real thick hot chocolate!
By 6:30PM, it was time to go back to Ponte Vecchio as I had planned to meet with my sister & brother-in-law at the Cellini's statue on the bridge. We then proceeded to have dinner together at a nearby Italian restaurant they had previously patronized.
DAY 4 - 02/06. FLORENCE.
Palazzo Medici Riccardi (15th-century)
The Piazza del Duomo is near. Very crowded at this time of day. I admire the
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| Palazzo Vecchio |
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| Lunch at Trattoria Bardino |
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| At Café Rivoire |
By 6:30PM, it was time to go back to Ponte Vecchio as I had planned to meet with my sister & brother-in-law at the Cellini's statue on the bridge. We then proceeded to have dinner together at a nearby Italian restaurant they had previously patronized.
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| A view of the Arno |
The breakfast room is a clear reminder of this place being an old palace. The ceiling is covered with a flamboyant painting.
I wanted to start my day early in order to visit as many places as possible. I was at the Duomo some time after 9:00AM, but unfortunately, nothing really opens till 10:00PM. I also wanted to climb the stairs up to the top of the Campanile but I was not able to purchase a ticket just for the view. Consequently, I changed my plan and started my walking morning tour :
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| Palazzo Medici-Riccardi |
Cloister of San Lorenzo (free, but had to wait till 10AM to purchase a ticket to visit the vault and get inside the basilica.
Basilica San Lorenzo designed by Brunelleschi; and seeing, in particular, the old Sacristy (Segrestia Vecchia) and the two bronze pulpits in the nave (15th-c), all due to Donatello.
The Medicis Chapel (Capelle Medicee), resting place of 49 Medicis, where some tombs were made by Michelangelo.
San Lorenzo Market.
Then, it was time to start walking back to the riverbank. I stopped for coffee at Palazzo Strozzi.
Mercato Nuovo in a 16yh-century open loggia having Il Porcellino, a bronze statue of a wild boar.
Continuing past Ponte Vecchio on Via Guicciardini till Piazza dei Pitti, where I sit for lunch
away from the rain with a huge Caesar salad.
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| Galleria Palatina |
Meet my sister & brother-in-law for a long afternoon visit of Palazzo Pitti.
Galleria Palatina : a captivating museum in the former grand palace of the dukes of Tuscany – paintings of Fra' Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Raphael, Caravaggio, Titian, to name only just a few.
Glimplse of Giardino di Boboli (Boboli Garden).
Then drink on the open terrace of Hotel Continentale on the other side of Ponte Vecchio with an awesome view of Firenze, the Arno, Ponte Vecchio and the surrounding countryside hills of Tuscany.
My sister and her husband come to visit the old palace where Hotel Paris is now is.
Taxi and dinner at their hill resort, Villa Belvedere.
Evening walk to Santa Maria Novella and then the old historic area as far as the Arno.
DAY 5 - 03/06. FLORENCE to SIENA.
Another great breakfast under the painted vault of Hotel Paris. Taxi ride to Villa Belvedere after checking
out. Lovely drive from Florence to Siena (56km) and installation at La Loggia Villa Gloria among the rolling hill of the Chianti classico vineyards.
Florence was at the heart of the Renaissance in a valley. Siena is a medieval city on top of a hill. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, home of Pope Pius II and of 'Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena', the world's oldest bank.
Another busy day visiting the following sites:
The Duomo (1215 to 14th-century).
Museo Civico housing many artists of the Sienese school using secular subjects instead of the regular religious ones.
- the Sala del Risorgimento (Unification of Italy) with paintings of Vittorio Emmanuele II.
- the Sala di Balia (Room of Authority) with paintings of Pope Alexander III.
- the Vestibolo (Vestibule) with a bronze she-wolf, symbol of Siena.
- the huge Sala del Mapamondo (Hall of the World Map) showing Simone Martini's
Maesta (Virgin Mary in Majesty, 1315).
- the Sala dei Nove (Hall of the Nine), showing allegories of good & bad Government.
Piazza del Campo (mid-12th century) and its Fonte Gaia (Happy Fountain, 1346)
Palazzo Communale (late 13th-century)
Torre del Mangia, its graceful campanile of 102 meters high; I climbed the 500 steps to access to the view on top.
Complesso Musealo Santa Maria della Scala, a former hospital from 13th-century, used as a hospice for pilgrims.
Finally, a charming stroll through the streets of the old city.
Evening dinner at the village of Quercegrossa at 5 minutes' away from the resort.
DAY 6 - 04/06. SIENA
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| Night view of the Arno, Florence |
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| Panoramic view on the Arno & Ponte Vecchio |
Another great breakfast under the painted vault of Hotel Paris. Taxi ride to Villa Belvedere after checking
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| View from Villa Gloria |
Florence was at the heart of the Renaissance in a valley. Siena is a medieval city on top of a hill. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, home of Pope Pius II and of 'Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena', the world's oldest bank.
Another busy day visiting the following sites:
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| Duomo facade |
Museo Civico housing many artists of the Sienese school using secular subjects instead of the regular religious ones.
- the Sala del Risorgimento (Unification of Italy) with paintings of Vittorio Emmanuele II.
- the Sala di Balia (Room of Authority) with paintings of Pope Alexander III.
- the Vestibolo (Vestibule) with a bronze she-wolf, symbol of Siena.
- the huge Sala del Mapamondo (Hall of the World Map) showing Simone Martini's
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| Il Campo view |
- the Sala dei Nove (Hall of the Nine), showing allegories of good & bad Government.
Piazza del Campo (mid-12th century) and its Fonte Gaia (Happy Fountain, 1346)
Palazzo Communale (late 13th-century)
Torre del Mangia, its graceful campanile of 102 meters high; I climbed the 500 steps to access to the view on top.
Complesso Musealo Santa Maria della Scala, a former hospital from 13th-century, used as a hospice for pilgrims.
Finally, a charming stroll through the streets of the old city.
Evening dinner at the village of Quercegrossa at 5 minutes' away from the resort.
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| Piazza del Campo, Siena |
Pleasant morning breakfast at La Loggia Villa Gloria (2nd day) on another overcast day on the Tuscan country hills of the Chianti Senese region. Then drive back to Siena as we have reserved a full visit of the Opera della Metropolitana di Siena
starting at 10:30AM. Here are the outlines of the day's visit to the medieval city of Siena :
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| Duomo facade |
Chiesa di San Domenico (St. Dominique's Church) on Piazza S.Domenico with a dramatic view of Siena. Inside the church, there is a chapel dedicated to the local Saint Catherine (Cappella di Santa Caterina).
Walk through the medieval streets of Siena as far as the Piazza del Duomo with its outstanding marble cathedral (Duomo). The interior of the cathedral is as unique as its facade with its Floor Panels from the 14th to 16th centuries.
The Libreria Piccolomini has frescoes of Pope Pius II's life with a collection of his books. Pius II
was a Sienese-born Pope.
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| Duomo library ceiling |
Museo dell' Opera del Duomo has a fabulous collection of 12 statues of prophets & philosophers by Giovanni Pisano. But its masterpiece is Duccio di Buoninseana's Maesta (1311) with scenes of the passion of Christ.
The Cripta (crypt) with its murals.
The Battistero di San Giovanni is an unusually large baptistry. Its masterpiece are the bronze panels depicting the life of St. John the Baptist by Lorenzo Ghiberti & Donatello.
Lunch in a small, typical trattoria near the Pinacoteca.
Afternoon's walk through the streets of the Campo (old city) as far as San Bernadino with a stunning view of the hill city of Siena.
Late afternoon break on the way back to the resort at Quercegrossa.
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| Siena as seen from San Bernadino church |
Monteriggioni
Late afternoon's drive on the hillcrest of the Chianti Senese district as we head towards the old medieval walled city of
Monteriggioni between Siena & Florence.
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| Monteriggioni square at sunset |
A pleasant stroll through the narrow streets of this small walled village.
Wine tasting and then dinner alfresco on the town square.
DAY 7 - 05/06. SIENA to Le Luc (Var, France).
Early morning breakfast at La Loggia Villa Gloria.
9:30AM - Drive along the hill crests of Tuscany as far as the medieval hill village of San Gimignano.
From a distance, the many high medieval towers (15) of this hill town look like skyscrapers. But this is a beautifully preserved walled city now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
There is a lot of traffic on the expressway to La Spezia, Genova, Carrara (with a stunning view on the marble quarries) and finally the Italian Riviera to San Remo & Ventimiglia.
9:30AM - Drive along the hill crests of Tuscany as far as the medieval hill village of San Gimignano.
San Gimignano
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| S.Gimignano piazza |
It is pleasant to stroll through the streets of the village. This site attracts many visitors and many local artists have opened shops, bringing life to this old pilgrimage relay on the road to Rome. The main attraction is its Cathedral (the Collegiata, Piazza del Duomo) and the nearby city square with a well in the center. Some places offer a great view on the surrounding Tuscan countryside.
12:30PM - On the road again towards southern France.
Before bypassing Pisa, we stop on a country hill for a picnic with a fabulous 360º panorama over the hills of Tuscany.
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| Picnic view over the hills of Tuscany |
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| From Siena to Provence |
After Monaco, Nice & Cannes we arrive at about 8:30PM at the country villa of my brother-in-law near the village of Flassans in the Var.
DAY 8 - 06/06. Le Luc to ARLES.
Country breakfast at the villa, then last drive to Arles where my sister & I arrive before noon.
Back home for a week.
DAY 9 & 10 - 07, 08/06. ARLES.
DAY 11 - 09/06. CLERMONT l'HÉRAULT.
Morning in the province of Languedoc for a medical appointment.
Then back to Arles.
DAY 12 - 10/06. ARLES.
DAY 13 - 11/06. LE GRAU DU ROI.
Drive across the Camargue area to spend the day at the seaside resort of Le Grau du Roi in Languedoc.
DAY 14 - 12/06. ARLES.
Afternoon's visit at the Van Gogh exhibition at the Fondation Van Gogh d'Arles.
DAY 15 & 16 - 13-14/06. ARLES.
DAY 17 - 15/06. MARSEILLE-PROVENCE [MRS] to ROME-FIUMICINO [FCO] & onwards to DOHA [DOH]
Partly cloudy sky over Provence but bright sunny day over Rome-Fiumicino.
The ALITALIA flight to Rome [FCO] was 40' late but it took 55' for the A320 to get to Fiumicino Airport.
Amazingly, there are not too many passengers at this time of day at Suvarnabhumi Airport. So, going through the immigration is a real piece of cake today. 30min later, I am out after collecting my bag!
Country breakfast at the villa, then last drive to Arles where my sister & I arrive before noon.
Back home for a week.
DAY 9 & 10 - 07, 08/06. ARLES.
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| Place Antonelle, La Roquette |
DAY 11 - 09/06. CLERMONT l'HÉRAULT.
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| Place de l'église at Clermont l'Hérault, in Languedoc |
Then back to Arles.
DAY 12 - 10/06. ARLES.
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| Evening country sky |
DAY 13 - 11/06. LE GRAU DU ROI.
Drive across the Camargue area to spend the day at the seaside resort of Le Grau du Roi in Languedoc.
DAY 14 - 12/06. ARLES.
Afternoon's visit at the Van Gogh exhibition at the Fondation Van Gogh d'Arles.
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| Van Gogh Foundation |
DAY 15 & 16 - 13-14/06. ARLES.
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| Townhouse front |
The ALITALIA flight to Rome [FCO] was 40' late but it took 55' for the A320 to get to Fiumicino Airport.
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| MRS to FCO |
Now, in transit at Fiumicino Airport waiting for the second leg of the trip to Doha [DOH] at T5 Le Anfore business lounge, a privilege of QATAR AIRWAYS frequent flyers.
Flying again aboard the new the B787-8 Dreamliner on this sector.
The flight leaves Fiumicino on time. I was given a seat window on the first row with no one next to me, making the flight more comfortable. The aircraft keeps flying along the coast all the way down to Sicily. Going eastwards is always faster. We arrive at night at Doha after a 4h30min smooth flight.
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| Dreamliner at FCO |
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| FCO to DOH |
DAY 18 - 16/06. DOHA [DOH] to BANGKOK [BKK]
Transit at Hamad International Airport again and a rather brief relaxing time at the Qatar Airways frequent flyers' lounge.
Last leg of the trip back to Thailand on my favorite aircraft, an A380-800. Front row window again, with nobody next to me and another personal welcome back from the cabin attendant as a regular frequent flyer customer. This flight provides a snack after take-off and a full breakfast before landing. The journey takes 6h20min after a slightly bumpy flight over India and the ocean due to the monsoon season. Bangkok is now fully installed in the annual rainy season.
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| DOH to BKK |
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| From MRS to BKK via FCO & DOH
--> Photo album
- End of a 2-week's trip back to Europe - |
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