Haroon Mosque Muslim Village

The story of an unexpected discovery in Bang Rak, Bangkok

Visiting the old Chao Phraya historic area near the grand Mandarin-Oriental hotel can still bring

Village alley

forward unexpected sights ! I have been to the French Embassy countless times already ; and yet,

A village within the city

yesterday it took an unpredictable turn I had missed until now.

On my way out from the Embassy compound, I was first struck back by the scorching heatwave we are having at the time being. I stopped a moment just outside, switching on my mobile. Then I lifted up my eyes and saw one of these brown touristic boards that landmark the city historic sights. I had never ever noticed it before ! I knew this whole section on to the left-hand side was a Muslim quarter. There are two beautiful examples of old colonial wooden mansions there too. But right at the corner of this little alley, today, there was this sign. Being inquisitive by nature, I briskly walked to read what it was all about. 

And here is the story written :

Haroon Mosque

Haroon Mosque was built by Toh Haroon Bafaden, who came from Pon Choe Nah Town, Indonesia. Toh Haroon immigrated to Thailand at Ton Samrong village, which was a small village located in Bang Rak District since the early period of King Rama III, around 1828. He built the mosque for religious practices of Muslims in the village. The mosque is a one-storey wooden structure with an elevated floor. Toh Haroon Bafaden was the first imam of the mosque. When he died, his son Haji Muhammud Yusup (Tuan So) succeeded the post of the imam. Later, the mosque, which was made from wood, was deteriorated, so it was demolished and a new mosque was built from bricks (as seen to-day) to replace the old one. The wood that had been dismantled from the old mosque had been used for the construction of the new mosque as well for example as the floor and the rounded post. The mosque was built with the personal money of the imam. The engravings in the Arabic language, which appear on the wall in the mosque, was done by Haji Sa-Id, who came from Pon Choe Nah Town, Indonesia, like Toh Haroon Bafaden.

The act of Islam Mosque was declared in 1947 and every mosque had to be registered according to the law. And the Haroon Mosque was registered under the name Wat Muang Khae Mosque and later changed its name to Haroon Mosque, honoring and glorifying Toh Haroon Bafaden, who established this mosque.

Haroon Mosque corner

So, I decided to enter the alley and explore it on my own. Fortunately, I

Mosque entrance

always carry a camera with me. Had I not had one, I would definitively have gone back to this area. What a treasure trove ! The way the people dress tells you straight away that you are in the midst of a Muslim community's daily life activities : shops, cafés, street eating-stalls. And people are so welcoming here with a smile on their faces, sometimes accompanied by a friendly, hailing word after realizing that a lonely farang was exploring their village. I had the same feeling as when I explored the local communities of the Thonburi riverbanks. One may have thought at first that this would turn to be a dreary shanty side of the city. But you quickly forget that you are right in the heart of a city. Well, this is how Bangkok is and why I love this place so much ! It is a real maze of small alleys lined with traditional wood houses among plants and flowers, looking so clean and so peaceful ! I had used one of these transversal alleys before but not like today....How could I have missed this ! I walked as

Old colonial house

far as the mosque. The building has nothing in particular although I did not get inside this time. There are some fine examples of colonial architecture near the mosque but the most amazing discovery was this big, shady park right in front of the mosque. Actually, part of it is a Muslim cemetery and I suspect there are some more unknown mounts within the garden that could be tombs as well. This is totally unexpected as it is simply secretly hidden away.

Thai monastery compound

Haroon Mosque park

Even more amazing, it is wonderful to know that this Muslim community lives happily and peacefully near a Thai monastery on one side and a Christian cathedral and school on the other side. Wouldn't this teach many others a clear lesson of serenity?

Hopefully, the photos will help to recreate the feeling of bliss you get when you are there. I went back to Charoen Krung – Bangkok's first historical road – by using another busy alley with more shops and stalls. Bangkok is such an amazing city.

Christian Sorand