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Monday, August 29, 2016

La Tour Mahanakhon Tower

To celebrate the end of its construction, the highest skyscraper in Bangkok was on a light show this evening. Until now,  it was the Baiyoke Tower II (304m), which held the record. From now on, it is the Mahanakhon Tower that will hold the new record (314m / 77 Floors). There were scores of photographers waiting under the rain for the show. It was delayed until 8:30PM.
L'heure est venue ce soir pour l'inauguration du plus haut gratte-ciel de Bangkok : la tour Mahanakhon (314m / 77 étages). Elle detrône ainsi le précédent record de la tour Baiyoke II (304m). Cette tour déstructurée aura un observatoire aux 74 et 75e étages.
A view of Mahanakhon Tower

Light show opening
Light show celebration

Sunday, August 28, 2016

Le Musée de la Culture florale / The Museum of Floral Culture

Sur la véranda du musée
            L'étonnante richesse de cette ville de Bangkok ! Il y a encore quelques jours, j'ignorais jusqu'à
l'existence de ce petit trésor caché. C'est au cours d'une discussion avec l'écrivain Mireille Disdero que ce lieu sublime m'a été révélé. La conversation portait sur une analyse que je suis en train d'écrire sur les parallèles entre les cultures du Japon et de la Thaïlande. C'est donc au beau milieu de cette réflexion que Mireille a mentionné l'existence de ce véritable petit joyau. L'art floral étant l'un des thèmes abordés, je me devais de m'y rendre au plus vite pour enrichir l'étude comparative en gestation.

En consultant le site officiel de ce petit musée, on s'aperçoit que les visites guidées sont soit faites en
La maison vue du jardin
anglais, soit en japonais, étant entendu qu'elles peuvent également se faire en thaï. Voilà donc un premier indice qu'on ne pouvait ignorer davantage.

Cette vieille demeure est située dans le quartier de Dusit, à l'autre bout de la ville. Et comme ce quartier s'ouvre sur le fleuve Chao Phraya, l'idée était d'y aller par bateau-taxi depuis le pont de Saphan Taksin. Le coût modique (14B) permet de faire une longue remontée du fleuve pendant ¾ d'heure jusqu'au quai nº18 (Payap Pier). Il faut ensuite poursuivre à pied dans ce vieux quartier de la capitale, ne manquant pas d'intérêt.
Et comme c'est souvent le cas à Bangkok, les soi sont des lieux de villégiature où il y a souvent de jolis jardins privés.
Blottie donc dans son jardin tropical, cette belle demeure centenaire est ainsi devenue le maillon inévitable de la culture florale siamoise. Sakul Intakul, artiste de renom, est à l'origine de la création du musée, ouvert en 2012, à l'occasion de l'anniversaire de la Reine Sirikit.
Thé turc
La véranda de style colonial est un endroit idéal pour s'initier à l'esprit des lieux. De grands ventilateurs au plafond rafraîchissent l'atmosphère. Et comme pour y ajouter une note d'exotisme, on vous propose une liste impressionnante de thés parfumés venus de toutes les régions d'Orient. J'ai choisi un thé turc aux grenades et à la cannelle. Un vrai délice.
La visite guidée comporte deux aires. D'abord l'intérieur de cette maison en bois, aménagée en musée de l'art floral. L'accent est mis sur la tradition séculaire thaïlandaise. Puis, on passe ensuite au jardin où l'on explique l'utilisation des différentes essences dans la vie journalière et culturelle du pays.
L'Histoire révèle donc que l'origine de l'art floral asiatique est originaire de l'Inde. Cet art s'est propagé par deux routes :
  • Celle du nord, passant par le Tibet et la Chine, pour aboutir au Japon.
  • Celle du sud, propagée par les routes maritimes en direction de l'Asie du Sud-Est.
La deuxième zone d'influence explique donc pourquoi cette tradition est perpétrée à Bali, par
Table décorée de fleurs
exemple ; ou encore chez les Khmers du Cambodge ou au Laos. C'est en Thaïlande que cette tradition est devenue la plus raffinée. L'une des salles du musée de la culture florale affiche les 9 manières reconnues pour les arrangements floraux. Une autre contient un précieux manuscrit japonais décrivant l'ikebana.
Quant au jardin, il recèle un choix élaboré de toutes les essences choisies pour la culture florale thaïlandaise sur un fond musical d'une douce musique japonaise très zen.

On s'accordera à retenir l'enchantement d'un tel lieu. Un havre de verdure et de paix dont on s'échappe difficilement en se disant que, de toute manière, on y reviendra.


Le musée est ouvert tous les jours, sauf le lundi, de 10h à 18h.
Prix fixe unique : 150B

Christian Sorand


Sala du jardin
Entrée du musée
Fleurs tressées

Friday, August 26, 2016

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM



La Ville de Bangkok recèle un grand nombre de trésors cachés. Il ne s'agit pas seulement de temples ou de palais. On y trouve aussi de vieilles maisons devenues des musées. La plus connue des touristes est celle de Jim Thompson. Parmi la collection des maisons thaïlandaises traditionnelles, la Maison Kamthieng (à Asok) ou Kukrit (à Sathorn), n'en sont pas moins intéressantes, bien que peu de personnes les visitent.
Il existe également de vieilles maisons en bois, de style plus occidental, ayant une touche orientale d'inspiration tropicale. Le Bangkok Post (édition du 4 août 2016) a récemment vanté l'histoire d'une telle demeure. Il s'agit de celle de la famille Surawadee, à Bangrak, connue comme étant le Bangkokian Museum (appelé aussi Bangkok Folk Museum).
1er bâtiment
J'avais déjà entendu parler de ce musée, mais je pensais qu'il s'agissait d'un musée d'art populaire. J'ignorais qu'il était situé sur le site d'une vieille maison familiale construite entre les deux guerres. J'ai donc décidé d'y aller afin de combler cette lacune, incombant à un résident de la '
Cité des Anges' !
Il s'agit en fait de quatre constructions sises dans un jardin familial, tel qu'on en trouve encore en marchant dans les soi de Bangkok.
-Le bâtiment principal, tout en bois, a un étage et un toit, construit dans le style Panya, en 1937. Au rez-de-chaussée, outre la véranda, on visite la salle de séjour, la salle à manger et une chambre devenue bibliothèque. L'étage supérieur abrite quatre chambres à coucher : la chambre de la grand-mère, celle de la mère, celle de la sœur ainée, propriétaire des lieux, Archan Wanida et la chambre des ancêtres.
-Au fond du jardin, juste derrière le premier bâtiment, se trouve une 2ème
2ème bâtiment
maison en bois, ayant également un étage. Sa construction date de 1929. C'est ici que se trouvait la résidence et le cabinet du Dr. Francis Christian. Ce médecin indien, de nationalité britannique, avait été le premier époux de la mère d'Archan Waraporn.
-Le 3ème bâtiment, situé sur la droite, est devenu un musée. Le rez-de-chaussé est consacré aux objets de la vie quotidienne thaïe de l'après-guerre. L'étage supérieur retrace les différentes périodes de la vie à Bangkok à cette période (« Overview images of Bangkok Metropolis »)

-Le 4ème et dernier bâtiment servait autrefois de cuisine au rez-de-chaussée. L'étage est devenu le bureau d'Archan Waraporn pour l'administration du musée.
Cet ensemble architectural témoigne donc de la vie d'une famille de la classe moyenne, dans la première moitié du XXe siècle, à une époque où le pays s'était ouvert aux influences extérieures. Il témoigne également d'une volonté de vouloir conserver l'héritage historique du pays. Il a d'ailleurs la vocation d'être un lieu culturel et éducatif pour les élèves et les étudiants d'aujourd'hui.

A noter que l'entrée de ce musée est entièrement gratuite. Il est ouvert du mercredi au dimanche de 10h à 16h.

Liens :

1st house vearanda

1st house living-room





Mother-of-pearl cupboard

2nd Floor bedroom




Front garden
Kitchen utensils

Baskets




- The End -

Saturday, August 20, 2016

What it takes to be an expatriate.

Usually, an expatriate is someone that goes abroad for work during a set amount of time. If you leave your country voluntarily for any kind of reasons, you are a migrant. However, things have now become slightly more complicated. First, because globalization has become a reality, and then because travels have grown easier and cheaper. So at the time being, you can either become an expatriate because your work or your company requests it, or you may also decide to become one. Nowadays, more and more young people choose to live and work abroad on their own will. The Lord Mayor of London cracked jokingly that his city had now become the second largest French community in the world. Retirees have also become a new group of expatriates. So much so that countries like Ecuador, Costa Rica, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Thailand or Malaysia have widely welcomed them as a source of new income. Another group rarely ever mentioned are the expatriation kids. They are a new generation of children, who follow their parents from country to country, attending international schools and who, sometimes, know their country of origin only during the holidays.

Each of these four groups functions differently. But today's reflection deals solely with the idea of what it takes to be an expatriate.

It is never an easy task to leave one's country and live in another. It is easier when two cultures are close to each other. More difficult when the cultures are drastically different or even when welfare becomes a real challenge. In some cases, people cannot even bear the challenge and decide to return to their homeland by saying “expatriation is not for me”. It is true that being an expatriate puts you on the razor's edge. It implies you must leave your comfort zone behind and adapt to a new lifestyle; quite often to a new language as well! Yet, there are positive sides too. It can become a rich, personal experience, a source of daily learning. In the long run, it contributes individuals to change and to adapt to other situations.
But being an expatriate makes you forever different for two main reasons.
- On the one hand, you need to adapt and accept other customs or ways of life. This does not simply deal with religious or cultural values. These can be somehow bypassed on a daily basis. It deals essentially with some more pragmatic concerns like food, medical facilities, school education for the children, or an even more insurmountable problem due to the language barrier. Consequently, the main effort of an expatriate is to adapt the best way possible to the host country. One major key to the problem is communication, which means a common language. Being in a country that speaks the same language makes the situation obviously easier. French, English or Spanish speakers may find it more bearable to live in a country that uses one of these languages. There are regions like Scandinavia, where almost everybody speaks English. But what do you do when you are in a country like Indonesia, Thailand or even Japan, where very few people speak or understand another language in daily life. At one time, it was a common belief that to learn a foreign language, you needed to do it at an early age. Linguistic research has since acknowledged that pure necessity becomes a booster to learn another language. The pending question here is not to master another language but to be able to communicate properly. The problem becomes even more accurate in countries where writing is also different like in Russia, Saudi Arabia, China, Japan, Korea or Thailand to name but a few. I once visited a Japanese friend, who was a journalist for the Asahi Shinbun, on the island of Shikoku, off the main island of Honshu. In Tokushima, the main city, things were all right even when I was on my own. But one day, I decided to travel south out of the city alone. I ended up having the hardest time to find my way or even simply eat at any place! I found myself in an identical situation in Busan, South Korea and in Chengdu, China with absolutely no one speaking English nor having a restaurant menu I could read! But then, I was only visiting these places. So this was just a temporary discomfort.
- On the other hand, an expatriate also sees his/her own country with different eyes. It is not only because you have invariably become a different person. You get more critical towards your country of origin because you see it with another eye. It is due to the time spent overseas. Returning to your homeland for a holiday means that you haven't seen it for a long period of time. Therefore, your eyes put you in the position of a newcomer. You see things that other natives do not pay attention to anymore. The habit has obliterated a fresh vision of the changes for them. They have grown accustomed to the changes whereas the expatriate is suddenly confronted with the changes due to the elapsed time. The same thing happens when you come across someone you haven't seen for years. Similarly, you don't see that you have also changed simply because you can look at your mirror on a daily basis.
It has always surprised me how my American colleagues in the various international schools I worked for, behaved and thought differently from grass root Americans. Many even choose not to return to the U.S. to live. America is such a big country that it is hard for US citizens to imagine life somewhere else. The situation becomes different for those, who have lived elsewhere and have learned to judge their own culture from outside. This is a crucial point.

In reality, living abroad seems to suppress nationality barriers. I first became aware of this fact when living in the States. European expatriates were obviously sharing a common heritage. It was clear that the overwhelming weight of history and customs were cementing a common approach.
As an educator in a few international schools worldwide, it became even clearer. The expatriate communities are not concerned with nationalities anymore. And this is because they all share common grounds. The same fundamental rules of adaptation apply as they live in one specific foreign country becoming the main focus of attention. Views and needs converge. So, you start having friends from many different countries or races. This is even more obvious in the melting-pot of international schools. Teachers have the same views and students just become natural friends with others. These are the roots of a new generation of global citizens. This is even more obvious with the expatriate kids. Some of them have never even lived in their respective countries! They are probably the ones on which you may count for a new form of globalization.
Many years ago, as a teacher in Algeria, I went through an interesting mutation. In the one high school, I was teaching, the Algerian education system had started to install two parallel tracks : the traditional French-speaking track and a newly started Arabic-speaking track. At this stage, the objective is not meant to denigrate one over the other. But since I had my feet in both, I could clearly see that the French-educated school-children were far more open-minded than the other group. The reason is very simple. The French-educated track dealt with bilingualism whereas the others had become mono-linguists. The same observation applies to international schools, where students are widely bilinguals and most importantly perceive different habits and ways of life.
Another experience recently happened to me reminding me to mention another side of expatriation. It deals with the sensitive issue of exclusion, which sometimes leads to ostracism or even racism.
The Thais always refer to foreigners as being 'farang'. Linguistically speaking the word is a deformation of the French language. In the 17th century, diplomatic ties were established between France and Siam. At the time, Ayutthaya was still the capital of the Siamese Kingdom. But there existed a foreign settlement on the Chao Phraya River in what is now the City of Bangkok. The Thais then started to know a new group of French traders and priests after the Portuguese. The French word “Français” they heard became 'Farangse' in the Thai language. Then later the term 'Farang' started to apply to any other foreigner. Because of their cultural heritage, the Thais commonly continue to apply the term 'Farang' to any other foreigner in their country even they have lived there for a long time. This is derogatory but not racist because the Thais are usually very open and tolerant people with no sense of adversity against other races. In Thailand – as well as many other countries in southeast Asia – many touristic or religious sites offer a dual price according to the origin of the visitors. It is free or a lower price if you are a Thai; much more expensive if you are a foreigner. This has become a really sensitive issue and a shock to many local expatriates, more than tourists, who tend to accept or ignore this reality. Sometimes it also applies to retirees. Many countries nowadays offer discounts to seniors. Thailand is no exception, although it often applies to Thai nationals only. This is not always clear cut, though. To use the MRT (underground) system in Bangkok, they do grant a 50% discount to anybody above the age of 65. But strangely enough, it is not the case with the BTS ('Skytrain') system that refuses to apply the regulation to resident 'Farangs'.
Lately, I visited a private elementary school in the suburbs of Bangkok. This school has a special curriculum to teach English as well as Thai. Consequently, they recruit many foreign teachers. Most of then are Americans. Now, most 'Farangs' are perceived as being white-skinned. This leads this reflection to another sensitive issue: in the whole of Asia whiteness is perceived as an absolute cultural factor. All Asians will avoid being exposed to sun rays. This is why they avoid going to the beach in daytime or that you see them walking with an open umbrella on a sunny day. One Thai friend even confided that you may have no chance to be recruited for a job, particularly in the tourist industry, if your skin is too dark. This accounts why they crave for whiteness. But then what happens if, let's say, the American 'farang' is not a white American? One of the teachers I was with at that school, was a young black female graduate from Washington D.C. As we were chatting out on the open school veranda with a group of her children, one boy, then a second one, couldn't help touching my arm. It made me laugh because I knew straight away that he had never seen a hairy man's arm before and that it was a total novelty! It reminded me this was a constant surprise when I was living in Indonesia. But it was the first time here in Thailand after six years! At the same time, this was happening, one of the school-girl was hugging her black American teacher. I knew that the first months she had taught here had been a real ordeal just because she was a different color. But after two years teaching at the school, things had become totally different. It shows how ignorance can have a negative impact on individuals. And only education can change what appears to be a fear of the unknown. These children may never be like others because they have seen foreigners, who are not simply 'farangs', not only white, and above all becoming bilingual will make them even more open-minded.

Being an open expatriate will remain an everlasting experience. There is so much to like or to understand. But this enriching approach must be willingly carried on. Because it is also easy to just shun away by living a parallel life. It applies to locals as well as expatriates alike. Too often, many expatriates choose to remain in their own spheres in order to keep their feet in a comfort zone. On the other hand, it also explains why many natives choose to avoid expatriates for as many reasons as religion, skin color, cultural differences or language barriers. Only education and a mixed nature can avoid leading to ignorance and racism.


Christian Sorand

Friday, August 19, 2016

A Visit to a Thai School in Samut Prakan


School children on the playground
Samut Prakan is a town south of Bangkok near the mouth of the Chao Phraya River. This is a densely populated area with many fishing and industrial activities. It is also located south of Suvarnabhumi Airport near the Gulf of Thailand coast. The BTS ('Skytrain') Sukhumvit line will soon be prolonged to Samut Prakan. But at the time being, you can only go as far as Bearing, one station after Bangna. So, in order to get there, it is easier to hail a taxi although the traffic is slow due to the major road constructions along the Skytrain.
Going upstairs in order
One of my former colleagues is currently subbing at Sriwittaya Paknam School for a two-month period. She invited me to come and visit the school at the end of a working week. I readily accepted because I was keen in visiting a Thai school being a former teacher myself.
Sriwittaya School is a private elementary school. In the Thai language, Pak Nam means 'river mouth' (Nam generally means 'water'). This is because Samut Prakan is a town on the left bank of the Chao Phraya estuary. Although this is a Thai School, it functions slightly differently because the use of English is part of the school curriculum. It means that there are many native English-speaking teachers in the staff. 
One of the first impression I had while being there, is how clean the premises are. Being in Thailand, children are not allowed to wear shoes. They wear a school uniform like all schools do in the country. The classrooms are air-conditioned and equipped with a white board. The children are well-disciplined following the rules of Thai society at all levels. The buildings are not different from any other school anywhere else in
Young kids restin time
developing countries. But I was particularly impressed by the use of technology there. It is also very organised, which is in keeping with the general trend in this country. Each foreign teacher is assisted by a Thai class teacher, who caters for the Thai curriculum. With the 2nd grader-class I attended, they chanted the Thai alphabet pointing with their little fingers on the script of the laminated worksheet they had. In another class, I visited, the children had become fluent enough in English to have a conversation with me. They were an older co-ed group.
I had already visited a more traditional village school in Isan. But I found it interesting to actually attend the actual instruction of a more modern school in the country.
Schoolyard view
Group of young boys at recess

Two girls in the classroom


Classroom

A schoolboy on his worksheet

Sunday, August 14, 2016

ANALYSIS - A further attempt to get an insight on the Thais

All expatriates face a double-sided consequence. In order to live abroad, they need to attempt to integrate a new culture. This can be time-consuming and poses a real challenge that some are never able to overcome. On the other hand, long-time expatriates become critical of their own country. This situation makes them also uneasy to repatriate.

The Far East has kept captivating Westerners. But living there can be often puzzling as one is confronted with a totally different culture or ways of thinking. It is often simply labelled as a culture shock but it never explains effectively how to go beyond this point. It takes a long time and a lot of energy to understand the Eastern way of life. Actually, I am not even sure that this process can ever stop. Educators know that learning is a life-long experience.

One constant observation after living in many different southeastern countries is the fact that Asian societies are commonly using a paramilitary structure. If you look at the way schools or businesses are run, or else how private guards salute you, it becomes obvious that this is a widespread social factor. Most Asian cultures have a religious foundation that goes back to Hinduism or Buddhism. The main idea is that the individual does not exist as such and that he must serve the community. Islam reinforces the same idea. This is why a country as big as Indonesia was able to switch from one religion to the other. The Javanese maid I had on the island of Borneo was a wonderful Muslim old lady from Java, who had still kept many of the former Hinduist beliefs. Religion might be at the roots of this process that has affected an entire society. But the language perpetuates this sense of order and community. Courtesy and hierarchy are linguistic markers that regulate how people must behave in society. When a Thai, after a conversation of a few minutes, ask you "how old are you?", it must not be taken as impolite by a Westerner. In fact, it is just the opposite. When a Thai asks this, it is simply to know how politely he/she should address you. Hence this other common question:"how shall I call you"? This is because, in the Thai language, or the Bahasa Indonesia language, there are many different ways of addressing people in relation to their age or social status. The extended family is the principal factor of unity in Asia. The eldest son of a family is called differently by his siblings. To signify your acceptance of the family system, you will be called 'uncle' or 'auntie'. A younger Asian talking to an older Western man could say 'daddie' just to show his respect. There is a way to address close friends, obviously different from how to talk to total strangers. Thais, for instance, easily refer to other nationals as 'bros' and 'sis'. This also accounts perhaps why foreigners are called 'farangs' in Thailand, 'Orang Barat' (Westerner) or 'Orang Putih' (white man) or even 'Bule' (albino) in Bahasa Indonesia, 'Masaleh' in Malaysia or even 'gwai lo' (white phantom) by the Cantonese. All these derogatory terms indicate that it is also as difficult for Asians to understand Westerners as the opposite. Simply consider that in Bahasa Malayu, 'Masalah' means 'problem'. 
The religious heritage and its linguistic implication are in keeping with the social structure of Asian societies.

The recent political turmoils in Thailand find an explanation through the cultural heritage. Thailand has a constitutional monarchy system where the army plays an important role. It accounts why an Army junta is now governing a country with an ailing, revered monarchy. The latest referendum has voted in favour of the junta government that keeps saying they want to bring back stability and happiness to the people. Wasant Techawongtham is a journalist, who recently wrote an interesting article in the English-speaking daily, The Bangkok Post. The title of this article was 'Thais should become less pragmatic'. He rightly posed the question every Westerner would ask. Western observers and journalists find it incomprehensible that the majority would accept a document that would impose restrictions on their basic rights.” His insight is really worth reading. Simply because he is a Thai, who masters the English language and is, therefore, able to express a clear cultural analysis on the situation. Here is a full excerpt of what he said. Thai society has been under a patriarchal and patronage system for much of its history. As a result, most Thais grew up under values quite different from those in Western societies.
We are a culture of macho men. To live under a strong and tough leader and to obey his authority is as natural as eating rice so long as we can expect favours in return. This could be promises of peace and order, stability, personal safety or social welfare.
Freedom of speech, political franchise, human rights and public participation are abstract ideas that have little relevance when the people have to struggle daily to subsist or compete in the marketplace. You may recall that not long ago polls found that large numbers of Thais don't mind corruption so long as they, too, could benefit from it. That must also be baffling to the Western audience.
Call it lack of principles, if you will. But Thais are pragmatic people, not unlike those in other developing countries”. These few lines define well the Thai society and what people expect in order to live in harmony, which, by the way, is another important social factor. I found his assumption of "a culture of macho men" particularly relevant, assuming that having an authority is "as natural as eating rice". He also clearly states that "Thais are pragmatic people" knowing this is a reality in most developing countries. 
This is a valuable statement coming from a Thai. But it does not mean it is a stalemate. As a reminder, simply refer back to the title of the article:"Thais should become less pragmatic".Interesting isn't it ?

Hopefully, this reflection will help people analyse the situation through a different angle not biased on prejudices. On a wider scale, it will also explain the political positions of ASEAN leaders regarding some past issues like the Burmese junta or more recently on China with the Spratly Islands dispute. And yes, even after spending so many years in south-east Asia, you never stop learning more every day of your life! So what can be said of someone, who has never been familiar with the Oriental culture?
                                                                                               Christian Sorand

PLAIN TALK – Wasant Techawongtham, Bangkok Post, 12 August 2016: "Thais should become less pragmatic"

Saturday, August 13, 2016

Siam Discovery: the new Showcase of Bangkok Malls' Designers.

Lately, Bangkok seems to have become a showcase for designing malls. The trend became obvious in some of the newly opened shopping malls along Sukhumvit Road. Central Embassy first opened as a contemporary display of luxury goods. Then came, EM Quartier with its totally new concept including an outside waterfall and a suspended garden. 
But the trend has also become obvious in renovating existing malls that needed a facelift. It was the case with Siam Center. There, each outlet provides a different design. But it is clear that the designers have tried to include Art as well as a new concept. 
Siam Center is linked with Siam Discovery, which obviously needed a serious facelift. This was done recently. And what an impressive new look! The traditional shop design has been completely rethought. Walls have been removed to create an open space like in a department store. There is a clear will to redesign displays in a new fashion. Each floor has a different decoration concept. The use of colors and patterns make it an amazing experience that seems to fit its name.
All in all, the designers have managed to turn a shopping experience into a discovery. Perhaps, this is a new way to attract customers in a fight against a tight competition on the local market.
Christian Sorand
Skytrain view of Siam Discovery
Stairs/sitting area

Art design
Display design
Floor design
Interior decoration
Plate design
Artistic plates