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Friday, August 12, 2016

The Bangkok Muslim Village across from Jim Thompson House

Bangkok is called the City of Angels. But it is also known by Westerners as the Venice of the East. There was a time when roads did not even exist. Thais were simply using the network of canals (khlong, in Thai) to travel. When Ayutthaya was still the royal capital of Siam, the foreigners living in the trading settlements along the Chao Phraya River in the historic city requested to have an adequate way to circulate. This is the time when Charoen Krung Road, near the Oriental Hotel, was constructed and became the first street in the city (Charoen Krung Road).
Canal view near JT-House
Often enough, visitors to Bangkok do not realize that most of the Klongs still exist. Saen Saep Khlong crosses the city from East to West. Water taxis are a popular and cheap way to commute avoiding the usual traffic nightmare at rush hours. The water station near Siam Square is a connecting hub between the eastbound and the westbound lines. The westbound line goes as far as the Golden Mount (Wat Saket) in Rattanakosin - the royal historic island of Bangkok (Bangkok Old City).

The Jim Thompson House & Museum (The Jim Thompson House) is located on Saen Saep Khlong near the BTS-station of the National Stadium. Jim Thompson (1906-1967) was a well-known former CIA American, who revitalized the Thai silk industry in Thailand (Jim Thompson: Life & Legend). He disappeared mysteriously while visiting friends at Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. He was an extraordinary collector of Asian Arts as his former home - now a museum - shows. In the 50s and the 60s, he was a key figure to promote the Thai silk industry. 
If his house has become a tourist hotspot, many people ignore that the area across the canal from his home played a major role in the Thai weaving. This village has one of the largest Muslim communities in Bangkok around Daru al Falha Mosque. What people also do not know is that some 3`of the original weaving loom still exist.
One of my friends, who is as keen as me to explore every nook and cranny in the city, recently told
Map of the area
me to explore the area. She drew a rough map of the places to go for me to see. It has now become a new discovery spot in this city that has so many hidden jewels.
As you go out of the JT-compound, take a left turn to the khlong. Then, keep walking to the left along the canal until you reach a pedestrian bridge across. There is a nice view of the area from the bridge. Walking downstairs on the other side, make sure you turn left again and walk until you see a sign saying 'Thai Silk'. This is a really narrow soi (alley). A few meters away, another sign on the left indicates the first house where they are still weaving silk on a traditional loom. In fact, this is the house of a man, who knew Jim Thompson. He will proudly point out an old photograph of him with Jim Thompson. 
Silk weaving loom
Picture of J.Thompson
There is another place farther up the soi with many more active looms. It is also worth exploring this whole area that has kept a few of its old teak traditional houses. It is very clean and as safe and welcoming as any other city areas.

Christian Sorand
View of Saen Saep Khlong from the bridge
Silk factory looms
View of a soi

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