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| Sept.10- Saturday morning market in Arles |
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| Sept.10-Music band |
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| Sept.10- Place de la Mairie, Arles |
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| Square fountain |
D13. 11/09- Family reunion at my sister's in Arles for Mum's 89th birthday party.
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| Sept.11-Cédric with children & Mum |
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Sept.11- Mum with Baptiste & Timéo, her great grandchildren.
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D14-16. 12-14/09- Last days in Arles.
D17. 15/09 - Montpellier.
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| In Old Montpellier |
Helen Mack & Graeme, her husband, are Scots from Glasgow. Now, they have retired and lived in the Western Pyrenees, near the village of Quillan. Helen was my colleague at ISKL for many years. I had both her children in my class at the school when they were in Kuala Lumpur. They all moved to Jakarta after, then to Manila and Bangkok, before ending their career in Jeddah. Alastair, Helen's older son, is a math teacher in an international school in Shanghai. Kristie, the younger daughter, works for the UN. She was assigned in Copenhagen, but since moved to Manila. Helen, Graeme & I had planned to meet for lunch in Montpellier yesterday. Due to a predicted storm, we postponed our meeting to today. Last time I saw Helen was In Bangkok, many years ago when I was living in Vientiane. So, it was a happy moment to meet again this time.
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| 'Place de l'Œuf' in Montpellier. |
I took advantage to visit the old, medieval section of town as I had not been back here for quite a long time.
D18.16/09-Avignon → Paris-Lyon by TGV.
Early,this morning, I closed down the house as I won't be back until December. The second half of the journey to Reykjavik and Boston started today. I had breakfast at my Mum's and spent the morning with Mum. My sis came to pick me up at 11:00AM to drive me to the TGV-station of Avignon. Then, she drove on to Nice.
The TGV was a non-stop train to Paris, gare de Lyon. It covered the distance between Avignon and Paris in 2:20 hours. My friend Marylise was waiting for me at the arrival platform at the station. We took the RER (fast metro system) to Élysée and then the métro to Trocadéro. After getting home, we went out again to have a drink on Place du Trocadéro, with a partial view of the Eiffel Tower.
Long and lovely evening dinner with Josette Girard and Sou Van at Marylise's home near the Trocadéro.
D19. 17/09-Paris.
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| The new Orthodox Cathedral in Paris |
It was a cool and gloomy day: 17ºC and some drizzle. We walked all the way to the musée du Quai Branly passing by the new Orthodox Cathedral, which has just been completed but is not yet opened. The garden at the Musée des Arts Premiers has now grown to be a jungle. We came to see an exhibit dedicated to the former French President: “Jacques Chirac ou le dialogue des cultures”. A fascinating and outstanding retrospective through a period covering the second half of the 20th century and the keen interest of a prominent French political figure on primitive cultures. The former French President was at the origin of this museum creation. After spending time at this exhibition, we went through a quick tour of the museum (I had already been there twice before). We also spent some time at the gallery bookstore and walked back a different way to have a late lunch.
In the evening, I walked to the Eiffel Tower and surrounding area, took the aerial métro line at La Motte-Picquet, changed line at Pasteur and continued to Convention. I spent another great evening with Pau and Annick Helderlé, whom I had known while living in Balikpapan, East Kalimantan. They kept me for dinner and we kept on chatting during the whole evening till late.
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| Walking across the Seine River in Paris. |
D20. 18/09- Paris.
As this is the last day in Paris and that I must leave in the afternoon, I remained in the Trocadéro area.
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Women diving for abalone. Katsushika Hokusai (1835-1836)
|
I went back to Musée Guimet, the Asian Art museum. I have been there before but today I wanted to revisit 3 sections in particular: Khmer art, Thai and Japanese sections. But there was also a temporary exhibit of Japanese prints on women's life in Japan called “Miroir du Désir” ('The mirror of desire'). Some were original prints by Hokusai and Utamaro. As it was lunch time, Marylise and I had a light lunch at the museum restaurant. Before boarding the airport bus to CDG, we had coffee on the terrace of one of the cafés on the Place du Trocadéro.I stayed at the IBIS-Styles at Roissy-Pole tonight as I have an early flight to Iceland tomorrow morning. Nice hotel with great design.
D23. 19/09-ICELANDAIR [FI] flight from Paris [CDG T1] to Keflavik [KEF].
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| FI flight path CDG to KEF |
Woke up at 4:30am to get ready, took breakfast at 5:00am and left at 6:00am. Boarding was easy as
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| Flying above a Scottish island |
there weren't too many passengers at this early hour of the morning. The aircraft, a B757-200, was not full and there was an empty seat next to me (seat # 10A). The flight left right on time. It was drizzling over the airport at the time.
The flight lasted 2:50h. Service was good on board. They passed several times to offer drinks. We flew over the rolling hills of Scotland as it was only partially cloudy. Surprise! It was sunny upon arrival at Keflavik Airport!
ICELAND
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| Map of Iceland |
REYKJAVIK - Installation at the Icelandair Natura hotel at the domestic airport of Reykjavik. Nice
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| Icelandair Natura Hotel |
room (#419) on the 4th floor facing a hill. The hotel provides guests with a free public transport card, which is really great. It is still partially sunny with occasional light showers. Before taking the public bus to the city center, I climbed the hill to go and see
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| The Perlan |
the Perlan (the 'Pearl') on top of the hill. There are a persistent rainbow and the 360º view from the terrace is great.
The bus takes me to the town terminal and from there I walk downtown, seeing many familiar places but still enjoying the uphill and downhill sights of Reykjavik. I go back to Hallgrimskirja, the cathedral with a tower of 74m.
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| Reykjavik Cathedral |
This is the city's main landmark and I can't resist taking the elevator up to the tower to get another view of the city, the bay, and the surrounding hills. On the way back to the main street, I stopped at Café Babalu, where I came many times with Christine, Michel & Horta on my former trip to Reykjavik. I had a lovely, long walk through the streets of Reykjavik. I went to see Harpa, the Concert Hall & Conference Centre. This is a new addition as it was not there yet five years ago when I first came here.
Quiet evening back at the hotel.
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| Café Babalu |
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| City panorama from Perlan |
D24. 20/09- GOLDEN CIRCLE Tour.
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| Map of today's tour route. |
Pick-up time: 8:30am. A gloomy day with light rain throughout most of the day.
Departure: 9:00am → full day tour with 'Reykjavik Excursions' in the interior of Iceland.
After leaving the city, the coach drives across the typical Icelandic countryside made of fields, moss-covered land, and volcanic ranges. After the Red Lake, we pass the Red Hills (due to iron) and soon
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| Geysir park |
the Blue Mountain, which is an active volcano. The rising steam is used to produce electricity. There is a vast plain that serves as a vacation house area. There are still many sheep in the fields as well as some horses and poneys. There are also a few cows here and there. The first stop is a visit to a greenhouse farm, called Fridheimar. Here, they mostly grow tomatoes. Geysir geothermal area is
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| Fridheimar farm |
the longest stop of the day. Strokkur is one of the hot springs, which is active every 4-8 minutes. 'Geysir' is mostly dormant these days, but this is the hot spring that gave its name to all the other geysers. It obviously reminds me of Yellowstone Park in the States or Rotorua, in the North Island of NZ. Gullfoss waterfall is not far from here. The 'Golden waterfall' is a spectacular
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| Gullfoss |
sight. Next, is Thingvellir National Park. Thingvellir lake is the largest in the country.
But there are two other main points of interest here: the ancient Icelandic parliament the fault created by the American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
Upon returning to Reykjavik, the coach drops passengers in many other hotels in the city area. It allows me to see other parts of Reykjavik.
5:30pm: back to Icelandair Natura Hotel (2nd night).
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| Geothermal Park |
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| Thingvellir lake |
D25. 21/09- SOUTH SHORE ADVENTURE Tour.
Departure from hotel: 8:30am
Return to hotel: 8:00pm
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| Map of South Shore Adventure Tour |
Sunny in the morning, then overcast and rainy till late afternoon. Long day out as far as Vik, on the southern coast of Iceland.
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| Vik countryside |
The trip starts on the same road as yesterday as far as Selfoss. So, we pass by the former volcanic
craters of the Red Hills, a National Monument since 1961. After Selfoss on the way to Hella, the road crosses the Pjórsárdalur river, the longest in Iceland (about 250km long). The snow-capped Hekla volcano (1,491m) is clearly visible. Known as “Hell's Gate”, its latest eruption was in the year 2,000. Then the road stretches through a long plain with farmlands, sheep, and Icelandic horses. The Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) are clearly visible.The last Eldfell volcano dramatic eruption took place in 1973. The first stop will be at Sólheimajökull glacier, the tip of Eyjafjallajökull
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| Glacier formation |
volcano (1666m), whose latest eruption interrupted all air traffic in Europe. Then, we proceed on to the lovely seaside of Vik for lunch as it starts raining more heavily. I walk to the beach, known for its pitch dark black sand. I collect a sample for my collection as well as a black pebble on the beach. After lunch, the coach drives us to another black beach called Reynisfjara. Besides its black sand, the beach is well-known for its basalt sea stacks, a reminder of the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. From now on, the rain is really heavy and the next two stops are for two more spectacular waterfalls. In Skógar, there is an interesting folk & transport museum. But the highlight is for Skógafoss waterfall. A few kilometers away is Seljalandsfoss fall, the last stop for today.
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| Vik countryside |
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| Basalt sea stack |
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| Skogafoss |
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| Reynisfjara black beach near Vik |
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| Seljalandsfoss fall |
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Skógar Folk Museum
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D26. 22/09-ICELANDAIR [FI] flight from Keflavik [KEF] to Boston [BOS].
Very early check-out from Natura hotel to get to Keflavik Airport. It takes between 45 to 50 min to reach the airport, where I arrive at about 7:15am. I get a light breakfast before checking in for my flight to Boston at 8:00am. Keflavik airport is quite a nice and modern airport, much bigger than you can imagine as it is a transit hub to North America. WiFi is everywhere. I sit for coffee while going online for a while before boarding time.
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| FI flight route from KEF to BOS |
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| Flying above Greenland |
The flight leaves on time on another gloomy day. But the aircraft (another B757-200) quickly flies above the clouds. It is a full flight and I feel a bit squeeze on my window seat (14F). Good service again as the flight attendants pass several times to offer drinks. They already provided each passenger with a bottle of water upon entering the cabin. I had ordered a vegetable curry online. It takes about an hour before reaching the East coast of GREENLAND. Spectacular view of mountains, fjords and icebergs. The aircraft flies across the tip of the world's largest island and it takes a while before reaching the West coast of the island and flies across the Labrador Strait. It takes another hour before getting over Canada. The flight reaches Boston-Logan Airport ahead of schedule after a 5:05-hour flight.
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| The aircraft leaves the western coast of Greenland. |
NEW ENGLAND
Good thing I chose to arrive here. Hardly any queue at the immigration and it is a real piece of cake to do all the formalities, get the luggage and be out in the terminal. The whole process took roughly 35min. A free shuttle goes to the car-rent terminal organized like an airline counter. THRIFTY does my check-in efficiently with a friendly staff. I choose to get a mobile GPS that gives me a phone number as well as WiFi for the entire journey! Since I had a choice, I opt for a compact Chevrolet, all automatic as it is customary in the States. And off I go on congested expressways out of Boston towards Plymouth on the south coast of Massachusetts. I get there easily after roughly an hour.
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| New England states |
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| Map of New England |
Drive to PLYMOUTH, Massachusetts. (About 70 km)
It has been roughly fourteen years since I last came to the States! (Last time, ISKL chose to send me to attend a language workshop in Salt Lake City, Utah).
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| The Pilgrim Fathers' landing site monument in Plymouth, MA. |
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| On Plymouth main street |
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| Night view of the Mayflower II (reproduction) |
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| Map of Cape Cod with main locations. |
D27. 23/09- Drive to CAPE COD, MA. 91km.
Except for the bridge over the Cape Cod canal, the road to Eastham offers nothing really spectacular. I managed to make an early check-in at Captains Quarters Motel, which is much nicer than the last in Plymouth. Then, I spend the rest of the day exploring the upper curving tip of Cape Cod. The fist stop is for the Cape Cod Highland Light above the cliffs on the North Atlantic. The
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| At Provincetown |
ocean looks calm as it is a partly sunny day, slightly cooler than yesterday. Next, I head towards Provincetown, at the tip of the cape on Cape Cod Bay, facing the Plymouth coastline. This former whale harbor has become a tourist
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| In the street of Provincetown, Cape Cod. |
destination, particularly for gays as it seems that every house features a rainbow flag. Anyway, this is an absolutely charming place with lots of character. This part of the U.S. is definitively more civilized and holds an old World atmosphere. Walking along the main street feels like being in Europe in spite of the definite American architecture of its houses and public buildings. There are shops, cafés, restaurants, art galleries, hotels and guesthouses everywhere. Many famous American artists used to come here, in particular, Eugene O'Neill with his theater group. I truly enjoyed being there. On my way back to the hotel, I drove along the coastline of Cape Cod Bay and went to the smaller fishing community of Wellfleet, a typical New England village. I had a seafood dinner at a roadside restaurant in Eastham, near my motel.
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| Wellfleet beach on Nantucket Sound |
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| A typical house in Wellfleet, MA. |
D28. 24/09- Drive to DENNIS, MA (Nantucket Sound).
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| Beach of the Nantucket Sound at low tide |
A day spent exploring the mid part of Cape Cod. I first drove to the Eastern coast of Eastham, along
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| Chatham beach |
with the Atlantic Ocean but was not able to find a parking place at the US Coast Guard station. So, I drove on across the Cape forest of pine & oak trees to the Western part of Eastham on Cape Cod Bay. It was another fine day, although cooler already.Then I went to the seaside resort of Orleans. I was intrigued by its name. The Michelin guidebook mentioned its connection with France: its name and the cable underwater station ending here linking France to America. Apart from a fake mill by the water's edge, there is nothing else worth seeing here. My next stop was for Chatham, a lovely New England little village attracting many visitors. I had a hard time finding a place to park the car. I remained here for a couple of hours and walked through the sound harbor first and then to the lighthouse.
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| Residential area in Chatham |
Around 3:00pm, I started heading towards South Dennis on the Nantucket Sound and easily found Rob & Toni Mullen's little house nestling under the trees. Fine afternoon and evening spent with my former colleagues from ISKL. Again, so many things to talk about. They took me for a short walk in their area as far as the river, which we reached just before sunset.
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| At Rob & Toni's home in South Dennis, MA. |
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| River sunset at the Cape. |
D29. 25/09- Drive to Woods Hole (about 75km) & ferry to Vineyard Haven, MARTHA'S VINEYARD island (45 min).
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| Toni & Rob Mullen's house at South Dennis, MA. |
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| Map of Martha's Vineyard |
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| Aboard the ferry |
I left Rob & Toni a little before 8:00am and it took me about an hour to get the Steamship Company parking lot, north of Woods Hole. The ferry company provides a shuttle bus to the harbor. I arrived well before the 10:45am ferry to Martha's Vineyard. It is another beautiful day and the crossing on the deck was fine. Tom & Marylin Hopkins were expecting me on the jetty at Vineyard Haven and drove me to their nice, little house in the nearby forest. Happy to be back with old friends again, first from ISKL in Malaysia and then from ACST, Tunisia. We had lunch on their terrace under the sun. Then we drove through the western part of the island during the afternoon. We had a long walk on the fine sandy beach near Gay Head Cliffs. The cliffs there have some amazing mineral colors. Then we drove up the cliffs to get another view by the lighthouse and a small Amerindian community, who lives there. Our next stop was the small, picturesque fishing harbor of Menemsha. On the way back to Vineyard Haven we saw many deer along the way. And back home, there was a big skunk near the house. I walked to the nearby sound with Marylin at sunset.
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| Vineyard Haven harbor. |
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| At Tom & Marylin's |
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| Gay Head Cliffs |
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| Menemsha fishing harbor |
D30. 26/09- Full day on MARTHA'S VINEYARD.
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| Northern coast of Martha's Vineyard |
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| Oak Bluffs |
Another great, sunny day. Marilyn took me on a drive to the eastern coast of the island while Tom went fishing on his boat.First, we drove along the northern coast from Vineyard Haven to Oak Bluffs making a few stops along the way. Then, we parked the car in Oak Bluffs to go and see the gingerbread cottages. Oak Bluffs has been nicknamed “Cottage City' because of its many colorful tiny wooden houses. They had been built by a Methodist community around a square under an oak-tree, where now stands their open temple called “Tabernacle”. This is a unique and wonderful heritage. After that, we went to a former whaling harbor called Edgartown. It has now become an upscale community with many art galleries. We drove back to Tom & Marilyns through a different road across the island. Later in the afternoon, Marilyn took me to her favorite secluded beach on the northern coast of Martha's Vineyard. Then later still, we went for a coffee at Vineyard Hole and drove as far as the lighthouse.
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| Panorama of Edgartown harbor & Sound |
D31. 27/09- Drive to Hartford & Wethetersfied , Connecticut.
Ferry dep. 08:15am from Martha Haven
Ferry arr. 09:00am at Woods Hole
Parking dep. 09:30am / arr. 12:30pm at Wethersfield,CT. Drive: 286km
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Meetinghouse
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| Sila Deane's Home in Old Wethersfield |
This was probably the longest journey on this trip. It was raining over Martha'sVineyard and Cape Cod. But as I was heading north, it became drier and finally sunny and even warm in Connecticut. After checking in at Comfort Inn, Wethersfield, I drove to Old Wethersfield, a few kilometers away near the Connecticut River. All the main landmarks are on Main Street. This old colonial Puritan settlement became an important place during the American War of Independence. The first diplomat sent to Versailles was from here. Later, General Washington and General Lafayette metAdmiral Rochambeau here in order to prepare for the battle of Yorktown. People keep being friendly, saying hi or even stopping to chat briefly with me. The park by the Connecticut River is particularly attractive.
D32. 28/09- Drive to the Berkshires & Williamstown, Massachusetts.
Dep. 9:45am / arr. 4:30pm after several stops for visit. Distance: about 190km.
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| Stockbridge Library |
The road north takes me to Hartford,CT and Springfield,MA before heading west towards the Berkshires, a part of the Appalachian range. My first stop is for Stockbridge, a historical village where the painter Norman Rockwell lived. The two other main attractions are Stockbridge Red Lion Inn and the library, which is also a museum. Next, I drive south to Great Barrington
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| Lake near Great Barrington |
along the Housatonic River valley. Great Barrington has not much to offer except upscale art & decoration boutiques. The countryside has become lovely in a region of forests and lakes. I turn back north on Road 7N and make the 3rd stop at Lenox. This is another interesting place and I get a light lunch here before walking through the
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| Lenox |
town. Pursuing my way up north, I cross the town of Pittsfield with a nice lake soon after: Pontoosuc Lake. The road to Williamstown is superb: green meadows, rolling hills, and great viewpoints. I check in at Williamstown Motel, probably the nicest on this section of my trip. Williamstown is considered as one of New England's most beautiful places. It is the home of Williams College, a prestigious university with an outstanding Art Museum.
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| River near Williamstown,MA. |
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| Williamstown Church |
D33. 29/09- Leisure drive from the Berkshires in Massachusetts to the Green Mountains of Vermont.
Dep.8:45am / arr.2:30pm. About 120km in the mountains.
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| Old Bennington,VT. |
Oh! What a beautiful day! Bright and sunny for the weather and gorgeous for the colors and the countryside. As an educator, I paid tribute to Williams College, bowed on the grave of Robert Frost, hailed to the sun on the Mohawk Trail, came across the stunning Fall colors of the Green Mountains and contemplated the ski resorts of beautiful Vermont.
-Williamstown, Massachusetts. After breakfast, around 8:00am, I saw the sun rise above the hills and went back to Williams College.
-Old Bennington, Vermont. A lovely mountain drive from the Berkshires to the foothills of the Green Mountains. Vermont becomes the 3rd New England state
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| Robert Frost |
visited. Old Bennington is another lovely village. It was the site of a battle against the British during the war for independence (a tall stone obelisk commemorates the American victory). And in the Old First Church cemetery, I looked for the grave of Robert Frost.
“Two roads diverged in a wood and me - I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference.” Robert Frost
Then, I came back to Williamstown Motel and drove off on many country roads through stunning landscapes, ponds and lakes, forest trees changing color, and bucolic sceneries with cows and horses.
-Mohawk Trail, Massachusetts. After the industrial city of North Adams, the trail climbs the mountains in many curves offering stunning viewpoints:
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| Tribute to the Mohawks |
Hairpin Curve, Western Summit, Witcomb Summit (the highest) before winding downhill to
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| Country farm |
Florida and the Mohawk Trail State Forest with its statue honoring the Mohawks (“Hail to the Sunrise”).
From there, I keep on driving through narrow country roads up north till I reach Route 100, the best road to see the autumn change of colors.
-Snowdon Chalet is near the little village of Londonderry, in Vermont. A cosy and lonely place in the a forest inhabited by moose and bears.
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| Old Manchester |
-The rest of the afternoon will be spent visiting Manchester, Vermont. The road offers many viewpoints passing by some of the ski stations. Old Manchester has sidewalks made of white marble provided by a nearby quarry.
Great dinner at a fine restaurant in Londonderry on the way back. Had a glass of a wonderful Pinot noir from California and a crab cake dinner.
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| Autumn colors in Vermont |
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| Map of southern Vermont |
D34. 30/09- The villages of Southern Vermont.
A leisure day touring the villages of the Green Mountains of Vermont on scenic country roads.
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| New England church |
Overcast but dry with a cooler temperature.
Londonderry to Weston (Rt.100)
Chester, Grafton, Townshend and as far south as Newfane, one of the most picturesque villages of this area.
Many of these places have been built in the English manner with a large central Green.
The loop to the northwest starts with Jamaica (where I stop for a light snack at a country store); there are a few covered bridges in this area; Ball Mountain Lake State Park with beautiful autumn colors and scenic views on the countryside.
At Bondville, I take a side trip up to Stratton Mountain Resort, one of the main skiing location in Vermont.
Back to Manchester, heading south on Scenic Drive Route 7 to Mount Equinox Skyline Drive (toll
of $15). This is the only Carthusian Monastery out of La Grande Chartreuse, in France. Stunning 360º view at the summit with a strong wind. Back to Route 7, I drive as far as Arlington where the painter Norman Rockwell lived.
End of the afternoon in Dorset, a few miles north of Manchester.
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| View from Mount Equinox |
Back to Londonderry and another great dinner with a lobster bisque + a Cajun Jambalaya + a glass of Pinot noir from California. Second night at Snowdon Chalet.
D35. 01/10- Drive from the Green Mountains,VT to the White Mountains,NH.
Dep.9:00am / arr.12:15 after many photo-stops along the way. Overcast but mostly dry. About 166km.
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| Covered bridge |
I tried to remain on scenic Route 100 as long as I could. The autumn colors became even more vivid as I was driving north through many other scenic country roads. I stopped for an authentic covered bridge over a mountain brook. New Hampshire is the 4th state visited. This is as far north as I will be on this trip. Near the town of Hanover,NH, I drove past Dartmouth College, one of the Ivy Leagues of America. Soon after, I took a bypass to see Mascoma Lake with great reflecting images on the water. When I arrived at the Days Inn – Campton, the room was not ready until 1:00pm, so I looked for a place to have a quick lunch.
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| Route from VT to NH |
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| Macosma Lake, NH |
-The White Mountains National Park. By 2:00pm, I was on the road again to drive north to Lincoln,NH. There Route 112, called Kancamagus Highway, crosses the White Mountains from west to east. The White Mountains are also part of the Appalachian range and are the highest summits in New England. Great viewpoints, sights and magnificent tree colors. This is the White Mountains National Park.
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| Panoramic view of the White Mountains of New Hampshire |
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| Trees at Fall |
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| In the Lake District, NH. |
-Lake district of New Hampshire. On my way back to the motel, I drove through the lake district. I was back by 5:30pm.
Nice dinner nearby at the Covered Bridge Farm Table restaurant: New England clam chowder + chicken green curry + chocolate cake & a glass of red Malbec from Argentina (USB35).
D36. 02/10- From the White Mountains, NH to Portland, ME.
Dep.8:05am / arr.11:15am, after several stops along the way. About 160km. Overcast; slightly rainy in NH, dry and mild in ME.
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| NH to Portland,Maine |
The first morning stop was for the covered bridge over the Pemigewasset River near the hotel. Today's drive was almost entirely done on country roads with bright autumn foliage.
-New Hampshire LAKE AREA. The road went through many lakes: Little Squam Lake, Squam Lake and the huge Winipesauke Lake, all bearing Indian names.
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| Covered bridge |
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| NH lake area |
I passed mountain rivers lined with their autumn foliage and country farmlands for cattle, corn and pumpkins. There were signs warning for moose but I did not spot any.
-PORTLAND, Maine. Maine has become the 5th New England state visited. The villages are not as
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| Longfellow's home in Portland, ME. |
pretty as in western Massachusetts or Vermont. Portland is a dreary (and boring) typical American city. The only place with some activity are the docks, which have been revitalized in the 70s. There ate cobbled streets in this area and many interesting shop or café signs. This is the birthplace of the American poet Longfellow. I went into an interesting bookstore and found a paperback copy of Robert Frost's poems.
Back to the hotel by 5:30pm. Dinner at the restaurant: stuffed haddock with a glass of white Pinot from California, which was excellent ($28).
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| Portland, ME central square. |
D37. 03/10- From Portland,ME to Boston,MA.
Dep.8:30 / arr.11:15 at Logan Airport. About 140km.
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| From Portland to BOS |
After giving back the rent car, I took the metro to downtown Boston (Chinatown station), then walked my way to Milner Hotel Boston Common. Not very convenient to walk there. The hotel does not look too good. The reception is not really welcoming and I cannot check in until 3:00pm. So. I leave the luggage in the luggage room and go out exploring Boston. It is 12:30pm. My first impression is not too good. I find a Malaysian restaurant in Chinatown and order a nasi goreng (fried rice). Chinatown is a mixed of Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Thai and Malaysian with a few Japanese! After lunch, I walk through the Boston Common. It is a fine day and this looks better. On the other side of the Common, there is a street (Beacon Street) lined with some fine examples of colonial houses. Then I go to the Public Garden before heading to the area near the South Station and the Boston Tea Party Museum on the East Point Chanel.
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| Boston Chinatown |
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| A walk through Boston Common |
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| Boston skyline & the Tea Party Museum. |
In the evening, I eat at a nearby Thai restaurant, 'The Montien', ordering a duck curry. I asked for a spicy dish but it was only moderately spicy.
D38. 04/10. Full day in Boston.
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| Stroll at Beacon Hill |
Another beautiful day inviting me to walk uphill and downhill in this historical city. If the first impression was negative, I must confess that today I was truly thrilled by the sites and the fulfilling enchantment of Boston. I did as much as I could to see all the interesting landmarks. There are many more than I anticipated. There is no doubt that the past heritage of the city makes the visit more interesting than any other American cities (with the exception of NYC). I did the two major attractions I wanted to see: Beacon Hill and Freedom Trail.
-BEACON HILL.This is an upscale colonial side of Boston. It has preserved its old world charm. I
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| Beacon Hill house |
simply followed the Michelin green guidebook walking through this lovely area: Charles Street Meeting House, Mount Vernon Street & Louisburg Square, Harrison Gray Otis House, and the State House above the Common.
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| Massachusetts State House |
-The FREEDOM TRAIL. After a light lunch, I started following this historical trail starting at Park Street Church at the upper corner of the Common. Once again, I followed the Michelin suggested itinerary as there were many historical landmarks to see:
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| A tribute to Paul Revere |
*Old Granary Burying Ground where some famous personalities are buried: Samuel Adams, Paul Revere, Peter Faneuil & the well-known story-teller 'Mother Goose'.
*Walking past the Old City Hall, I crossed the small square where there are the Old Corner Bookstore (now a fast-food restaurant) & the Old South Meeting House.
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| Old Corner Bookstore & square. |
*The Old State House (a visitor center), Faneuil Hall (Peter Faneuil was another Huguenot, who played a major role in the war of independence).
Then, I walked on to the nearby Union & Marshall Streets to see 'Ye Old Union Oyster House', where the future King of France, Louis-Philippe, lived and made a living by giving French lessons!
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| 'Ye Old Union Oyster House' |
(This is a historical even I totally ignored!).
*North End is another city area, which used to be another colonial part of town. Nowadays, it has
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| Old North Church |
become Little Italy and there are Italian restaurants and shops everywhere. But there are many historical landmarks to visit: Paul Revere's House (which I visited); his equestrian statue on Paul Revere's Mall near the Old North Church (where President Ford inaugurated the Bicentennial in 1986), and finally Copp's Hill Burying Ground, the first cemetery of the colonial town.
-The Waterfront. To walk back to the Milner Hotel, I walked past the upper section of the harbor waterfront: Christopher Columbus Park, Long Wharf & Central Wharf.
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| At Boston Waterfront |
This was a long, interesting day. I fully understand why Boston holds such a dear place in the American hearts. I ended the evening at a seafood restaurant near the hotel in the Theater District. Of course, I had once more my favorite New England Clam Chowder before having the main course with a glass of Spanish Shiraz.
D39. 05/10. Last full day in Boston.
Check-out time is 11:00am. But I leave by 10:00am to head to the South End and the Museums at the Back Bay Fens. As it is another gorgeous day, I decide to walk all the way. Pretty far, mainly on a round trip, but worth it.
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| John Hancock Tower |
After the Public Garden, I stay on Boylston Street until Copley Square. This is a new section of town but extremely well-off. This is where all the branded shops are. The John Hancock Tower on Copley Square reflects the sky and the clouds above an old stone church. Quite a contrast! This is where the Boston Public Library is, built in the neoclassic style. I turn into Dartmouth Street towards Back Bay area and the bank of the Charles River separating Boston from Cambridge, MA. MIT is just on the opposite side. Back Bay is an old residential area with huge mansions and shaded streets. Commonwealth Avenue looks like a long park in its middle section.
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| The Charles River & a view of Cambridge,MA. |
Turning back to Copley Square, I turn into Huntington Avenue. This way goes by the massive
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| Christian Science Plaza |
Christian Science Plaza, the Symphony Hall (home of the famous Boston Symphonic Orchestra), and also the Northeastern University. The two museums I want to see are located near Back Bay Fens: first the Museum of Fine Arts and then Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.
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| A view of Muddy River at the Back Bay Fens |
-ISABELLA STEWARD GARDNER MUSEUM. Toni in South Dennis, Cape Cod, had recommended this museum and I must say it was absolutely stunning. I had a great lunch in the modern section of the museum as it was past noon already. Then I went through this amazing museum built around a huge atrium in the Venetian style.
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| The museum atrium |
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| Venetian architecture |
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| The Gothic room of the museum. |
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| The Veronese Room. |
The Muddy River at the Back Bay Fens is a lovely natural park with squirrels, ducks and giant geese.
-The MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS. This is a well-known institution. Too big to see it all. I made the choice to see the American collection and the European section, mainly the Impressionists on the 2F. Absolutely fabulous.
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| Boston Museum of Fine Arts |
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| 'Le Facteur Roulin' & his wife by Van Gogh |
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| 'Where do we come from...' by Paul Gauguin |
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| 'Le Pont du Jardin de Giverny' by Claude Monet |
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| Colonial American home interior. |
Back to the Milner Htl., I'll wait for a few hours before going to the airport. I've asked for a taxi pick-up so that I can get door to door from the hotel to Terminal E (Qatar Airways). It only takes 15min to get there ($20). Check-in and formalities are as easy as when I arrived. I think Boston is a convenient port of entry to the US like Las Vegas was many years ago. I spent a couple of hours at the Air France business lounge before boarding the flight to Doha.
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| Route map from BOS to BKK |
D40. 06/10. → Qatar Airways [QR] flight to Doha [DOH].
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| A350-900 business cabin. |
Am leaving on 05/10 but due to the eastwards travel, I won't arrive until 07/10. Half way round the globe through 11 time zones! This is a brand new aircraft. QR was the first company to operate the A350-900. The business class is almost a copycat of the 'Dreamliner' with some more improvements. For instance, they have added a drawer for shoes and there is a large standing space in the middle of the business cabin. Service onboard is as good as usual and meals are served on request. I had my dinner with an excellent Pomerol (Château Bon Pasteur, 2011) and a really spicy vegetarian Thai green curry. I slept two hours after leaving Boston and woke up 7h later above the shores of the Black Sea in Turkey. Only a little less than 3h left before landing in Doha for a couple of hours...
The aircraft landed in Doha on time after a flight of 11:45h. It was a smooth trip, which I hardly felt due to the fact it was done in business class aboard a really pleasant aircraft. However, October 6 will remain a non-existing day in my travel memory as we landed at Hamad International Airport at dusk!
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| QR route map from BOS to DOH. |
D41. 06-07/10. → Qatar Airways [QR] flight from Doha [DOH] to [BKK].
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| QR route map from DOH to BKK. |
It was a bit of commotion to go through the security filter at HIA today. Hundreds of passengers had to queue as there was a mere 2 to 4 counters open. The security filter is designed to accommodate a large number of passengers at the time but for some mysterious reason, only a few were functioning.
Fortunately, I was able to access the QR business lounge and relax for a couple of hours after. I went to the upstairs dining room to get something to eat and then had time to take a shower as well.
I was able to be upgraded to the business class on the flight to BKK as they had one seat (#1J) available. I recognized the cabin flight director as I had flown with him before! Anyway, it was a quiet flight aboard this B777-200ER as I slept again for a couple of hours.
I had a nice breakfast about an hour and a half before landing.We reached Suvarnabhumi Airport on schedule in the early morning after a flight of 6:05h.
Back home at last! But frankly, flying business on such a long journey (more than 18h of pure flying time), makes it easier. I did not really feel any trip fatigue. It is another story to overcome 11 hours of time zones!
- End of another fabulous journey across the world -
of $15). This is the only Carthusian Monastery out of La Grande Chartreuse, in France. Stunning 360º view at the summit with a strong wind. Back to Route 7, I drive as far as Arlington where the painter Norman Rockwell lived.
