First anniversary of King Rama IX's death.

Friday, October 13th, 2017

Seen in today's issue of the Bangkok Post.

Today is a day of mourning across the Kingdom of Thailand as it marks the date of the deceased King Rama IX on 13 October 2016 at the age of 88. During the past year, millions of Thais have come to the Grand Palace to pay tribute to their passing King, who ruled the country for 70 years. The Press says there were 13M people, who came to pay tribute to the king.

So, today has been declared a national holiday in the country and the preparation for the royal farewell has officially started. The royal cremation will be held on October 26. Everything in the country will come to a standstill until 29th.

Each public building celebrates the funeral.

The Thais believe in the power of numbers.Very strangely, today appears as an auspicious day. First, King Rama IX bore a title, which had a very special significance in the Thai culture, where number NINE plays a symbolic value. 
You may refer to the following blog article I already made on number 9 (in French): Importance du nombre 9 dans la culture thaïlandaise

Then today is a Friday, the 5th day of the week. And last but not least, it is Friday 13th on the 10th month of the year. King Rama X, his son, will be officially crowned after the cremation ceremonies.
To push this set of coincidences even farther, try now to add the numbers of King Rama IX's death (2016). You get 9. And then, try to add the number of the current year (2017). You get10!

I personally do not attach any specific premonition to these figures but you can't stop noting these facts. Thai people will most certainly find a value in these remarks.

Symbolically, one may notice there are three major colors in the culture: the black, the white, and the yellow. Here is what it all means.

- Black, is the usual color of a funeral in Thailand. This is why Thai people dressed in black for a full year in remembrance of their beloved sovereign.

- White is also a color for funerals in Asia. But since it is a symbol of purity, this is the appropriate color for a religious ceremony. 

- Yellow is Buddha's color and by assimilation the royal color. This does not simply apply to Thailand. It is true with other royal ceremonies, particularly in southeast Asia: Bali, Java, Brunei, Malaysia,...

So, for the past few days, Thai authorities have been displaying an array of yellow flowers absolutely everywhere.

Black stands for the country, white for the religion, and yellow for royalties.

A tribute to King Rama IX in a shopping mall.

I took a very specific photograph to pay my own tribute to the King.

It shows a lotus flower but not in its original color. I used a photo-shop to alter it for two reasons. First, I retouched the original capture to adapt it to the circumstance. Then, I chose a lotus as a symbol. The lotus flower has a very specific meaning in Hinduism and Buddhism. To quote Joseph Campbell in 'The Power of Myth': "Brahma sits on a lotus, the symbol of divine energy and divine grace. The lotus grows from the navel of Vishnu, who is the sleeping god, whose dream is the universe."

'Mourning Lotus'

La valeur du nombre 3 en Thaïlande

Le Nombre 3 en Thaïlande

Trois [sam, en langue thaïe]

Le nombre 3 revêt une valeur universelle, assez troublante dans sa multiplicité. La symbolique universelle indique qu'il s'agit du chiffre de l'accompli, du monde créé.

La Thaïlande ne fait pas exception à cette règle, même si dans les cultures extrême-orientales, c'est plutôt le nombre 9 qui domine. [voir l'article de ce blog: L'importance du nombre 9 dans la culture thaïlandaise] Force est de constater malgré tout que le 9 est un 3 puissance trois [3 x 3 ou 3 + 3 + 3]. On remarque également que le 3 est le premier chiffre impair (puisque le 1 est le symbole de l'unité primordiale), tandis que le 9 est le dernier chiffre impair dans le système décimal.

Le nombre impair est celui du secret, synonyme de sacré, donc celui de la connaissance religieuse ou ésotérique.

Dans la langue thaïlandaise, trois se dit [sa:am] et s'écrit [๓].

La croyance bouddhiste est basée sur trois éléments spirituels : Phra Phut (Bouddha), Phra Tham, en référence au livre sacré [Tipitaka : dans la langue Pali, ti signifie 'trois' et pitaka veut dire 'panier', c'est à dire un 'livre de préceptes' au sens figuré] et Phra Song (le moine).

Ceci explique donc qu'en Thaïlande, il a, avant tout, une valeur religieuse basée sur le Bouddhisme; toutefois, cela n'est pas exclusif, comme nous allons le mentionner dans cette réflexion.

1.L'architecture religieuse - Le temple thaï traditionnel, et par extension, très souvent les bâtiments publics d'État, ont trois toits. Chacun des toits du temple [wat, วัด] est surmonté par une fine

Trois toits du Wat Po de Bangkok

ornementation dorée représentant le hamsa indien, image du cygne. Hamsa est un mot sanskrit signifiant 'la pureté intérieure'.

L'image du Hamsa.

C'est donc devenu un symbole de l'âme. Dans la mythologie hindoue, le cygne était la monture du dieu Brahma. L'image du 'hamsa' [หงส] évoque par sa blancheur la pureté; l'oiseau est un lien unissant le monde terrestre au divin azuréen. S'il est doré, c'est que la couleur sacrée du Bouddhisme est le jaune, devenu par assimilation celle de la royauté.

On remarque également que le toit a trois couleurs : le rouge, le jaune et le vert.

-le rouge est l'image de l'amour et de la compassion,

-le jaune représente l'éveil de toutes les qualités,

-le vert est un symbole de l'espoir.

Les fondements religieux de la Thaïlande se trouvent dans la religion hindoue. Or cette mythologie est basée sur une trinité : Brahma, dieu créateur, Vishnu, dieu du maintien, et Shiva, dieu destructeur.

2.La gestuelle – Le wai [ไหว้] signe bien connu de salutation ou de remerciement thaï se fait normalement une seule fois en signe de respect. Il s'effectue toutefois de trois manières différentes selon le rang de la personne : sur la poitrine, sur le menton ou sur le front s'il s'agit d'un moine ou d'un membre de la famille royale.

L'humilité du croyant devant l'effigie du Bouddha se marque par une triple prosternation. De même, lors des cérémonies religieuses importantes, les fidèles font trois fois le tour du sanctuaire, dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre. Le 1er tour est fait en respect du Bouddha. Le 2ème est pour la philosophie bouddhiste et le 3ème est dédié aux moines. Au cours de cette circumnavigation, le fidèle tient à la main trois objets : trois bâtons d'encens (sagesse), une bougie (lumière mystique) et une fleur de lotus (Bouddha).

Dans un temple, le gong se frappe de trois coups.

3.Le drapeau thaïlandais - Composé de cinq bandes horizontales (autre chiffre impair), est un drapeau tricolore [Thong Trairong, ธงไตรรงค์ signifiant 'tricolore']. Les trois couleurs sont

Le drapeau de la Thaïlande

respectivement :

-en haut, le rouge, symbole du sang, représente la nation,

-le blanc, symbole de pureté, est l'emblème du bouddhisme,

-le bleu (en double largeur, au centre) représente la monarchie.

Le blanc et le rouge sont ensuite répétés indiquant que la monarchie est au cœur de la nation dont la religion est le bouddhisme.

4.Le Muay thaï – La boxe thaïlandaise n'a évidemment aucun lien avec le religieux. Elle suit malgré tout un rituel très strict basé sur des préceptes religieux ancestraux. Ce sport de combat, typiquement thaïlandais, était autrefois celui de guerriers destinés à protéger la nation. Le Muay Thai est basé sur trois principes : le corps [ran guy], les yeux [sai ttha] et l'esprit [sammong]. Son fondement comporte trois éléments : la technique [Puin Than], la force [Palan] et la vitesse [ruet rayo].

Il existe encore d'autres usages basés sur le nombre trois dans la vie thaïlandaise, mais il paraissait intéressant d'évoquer ici les principaux, car cela permet de mieux appréhender les éléments de la culture.

Christian Sorand

Liens :

Architecture d'un temple thaïlandais

La Thaïlande fête le centenaire de son drapeau
Le Wai

The power of the number 3 in Thai culture

Spiritual and traditional elements of Muay Thai

Symbols of Thailand

Navaratri Festival in Bangkok

Thai Buddhism is a mix of Bhramanism and Buddhism. One would think that the past former religion

Hindu symbol 

of Siam would have disappeared with the arrival of the Ceylonese Buddhism. But in reality, the two merged together within the Thai society. 

It has never been so obvious as tonight as I was attending the Indian Navaratri Festival in Bangkok. This festival started at Sri Mariamman Temple on Silom Road. This is the main Indian temple in town.  

At first, I had thought that it would mostly attract the local Indian community. I soon discovered that it attracted a huge Thai audience instead!

What is the Navaratri Festival?

This is a Hindu Festival celebrated each year in the autumn. In Sanskrit, it means 'nine nights'. It lasts for nine nights or ten days, celebrating the goddess Devi. It symbolizes the triumph of good over evil.

Street flower design

Images of the Bangkok Festival 2017.

The number of people attending the procession was amazing. It was even more surprising how colorful it was and the care that was displayed in so many religious stalls along the way. The burning of incense became heavier after a while. And the fervor of the worshippers was totally captivating.

Stall displays:

Display preparation.

Adding the Hindu deities.

Street flowers.

Each stall is different.

Display of fruit offerings.

Typical Thai arrangements

Fruit display.

People attending.

Thai mother and son.

Man in white.

Praying lady in Indian attire.

Young girls at a stall.

Selfie!

Boys with a traditional hairdo.

The procession:

Beginning of the procession

People attending

Sending scented powder on worshippers.

This man has a spear across his jaws!

Street scene at night.

Chanting prayers.

Rattanakosin, Bangkok old royal city.

One of Bangkok historical parts is an island called Rattanakosin. It is an island because, besides the Chao Phraya River, it is protected by a series of three canals. Thon Buri across the river had become the 3rd royal capital of Siam after Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. When King Taksin died in Thon Buri, the new king decided to found a new royal capital across the river. King Rama I, became the first king of the Chakri dynasty still ruling over modern Thailand. Then Bangkok-Rattanakosin became the 4th capital of the Kingdom of Siam.

Rattanakosin is the royal city. This is where the famed Grand Palace is and also Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Budha).

After many years in Bangkok, I had been there on numerous occasions but this time, I decided to stay there overnight in order to see and photograph some of its most famous landmarks at night.

My other purpose was also to get there and return via various taxi-boats, to discover new sections and also enjoy another sunset over the Chao Phraya, or take pictures with an early morning light.

As we are still in the rainy season, I was lucky enough to have a great weather all the time! Here is an account of this stroll with pictures to illustrate the various sights.

Riding the taxi-boat on the Chao Phraya River

1. Getting there.

Rather than going there on a weekend, I chose to leave on a fine Sunday afternoon in time to watch the sunset over the river.

At Wat Arun.

So, I took the regular express-boat on the Chao Phraya at Saphan Taksin bridge. The sun had already started its descent bringing a different light to the riverbanks. I stopped at Wat Arun pier on the Thon Buri right bank of the river. The Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) had been recently completed and I wanted to see how it looked without its scaffolding.

Then, I stepped into the regular ferry across the river near Wat Pho, in Rattanakosin. This area of Rattanakosin is known as Tha Tian. I checked in at a lovely, little hostel I know called Aromd Hostel.
It was the right time to be ready to go and watch the sunset over Wat Arun and the river.

A view of the river at sunset.

2. Sunset over the Chao Phraya River.

At Eagle Nest Bar

Often enough, during the rainy season, there are some really spectacular sunsets over the 'City of Angels'.

There is another riverbank hotel close to Aromd Hostel, which has a rooftop bar with a grand view over the river, Wat Po and part of Thon Buri. This hotel is called Sala Arun and its bar is called Eagle Nest Bar.

Cityscape panorama at night.

Luckily, the sky was just appropriate for a fine sunset. But I also wanted to be there at nightfall in order to get a different perspective of the river and of the lit Temple of Dawn.

View on Wat Arun from Eagle Nest Bar.

3. A dining experience in front of Wat Arun.

Wat Arun and the river at night.

Dinner by the river.

Nearby, there is also a fine restaurant called Eat Sight Story with an open deck facing the river and Wat Arun. It offers great Thai cuisine at a moderate price with a spectacular view and a friendly service. It had started to rain a little but this did not prevent me to stay on the deck under a big parasol and enjoy my order of a Chicken Coconut Soup [Tom Kha Gai] with rice and a glass of Chilean red wine.

Eat Sight Story Deck.

4. Night stroll around the Grand Palace.

The rain did not last long. After dinner, I walked past Wat Pho (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha) to enjoy the lights. At the corner of Thai Wang Alley and Sanam Chai Road, I was surprised to see

One of the temples at Wat Pho.

a long file of people waiting to be able to pay their respects to King Rama IX. All dressed up in black, there were thousands of Thais waiting patiently, almost a year after the King's death, and at night time! This is hard to believe if you do not see this with your own eyes!

The City Pillar Shrine

Anyway, I kept on walking past the security and the crowd to see the lights over the Grand Palace, the lit nearby Ministries as far as Lak Muang [the City Pillar Shrine]. 

At Sanam Luang, they are in the process of completing the royal funeral pyre of King Bhumibol. So, I turned into Lak Muang Road and reached the first protecting canal [khlong], Rop Krung. 

I walked along the 'khlong' on Rachini Alley as far as Saranrom Park. I discovered there was a small Dutch lift bridge there I had never heard of before. Since it was still early before the gates of the park would be closed, I walked in the park. I had forgotten they had a Chinese pagoda there as well!

Then it was time to go back to Aromd Hostel. My room offered a nice view over the lit roofs of Wat Arun.

In front of the Grand Palace wall.

The Ministry of Defence.

The Dutch lift bridge

The Grand Palace at Sanam Luang

5. Morning walk from the river to the Golden Mount.

Morning queue at the Grand Palace

At Saranrom Park.

After a nice breakfast at the hotel, I left with the idea of going back via khlong Saen Saep, the main canal linking the western side to the eastern side of Bangkok. I usually use it the other way round, seldom if not never from Rattanakosin.
It was a gorgeous morning with clear, blue sky and a brilliant light. I walked past Wat Pho again to Saranrom Park. At Khlong Rop Krung, I walked back to the Dutch lift bridge and then walked on Charoen Krung Road on my way to Wat Saket and Saen Saep. I had seen on the map, there seemed to be a nameless park in this area. In fact, its name is Rommaninat Park. It is an absolutely gorgeous park, with a water-mill, statues, an open-air gym, a children's playground, and a lovely little sala made of wood.

The Dutch lift bridge.

At Rommaninat Park.

Turning into Maha Chai Road, I was not far from Wat Saket (the Golden Mount). On Boripat Road, I stopped at a little café just in front of Wat Saket. Boripat Rd. is an interesting street with many carpenter shops. One of them specializes in making birdhouses!
The main canal is a few steps away at Phanfa Bridge. It marks the western end of Saen Saep at Phuttha Bucha Pier.

Open air gym at the park.

A carpenter shop.

6. Riding the water-taxi on Khlong Saen Saep.

Sitting in front of Wat Saket.

Aboard the Saen Saep taxi-boat.

At this time of day, the boats were rather empty and it took me less than thirty minutes to get back to the Asok Pier near Makkasan. 

Funny to think, I have lived here for so many years and still enjoying to discover new corners of the great City of Bangkok.

Christian Sorand