One of Bangkok historical parts is an island called Rattanakosin. It is an island because, besides the Chao Phraya River, it is protected by a series of three canals. Thon Buri across the river had become the 3rd royal capital of Siam after Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. When King Taksin died in Thon Buri, the new king decided to found a new royal capital across the river. King Rama I, became the first king of the Chakri dynasty still ruling over modern Thailand. Then Bangkok-Rattanakosin became the 4th capital of the Kingdom of Siam.
Rattanakosin is the royal city. This is where the famed Grand Palace is and also Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Budha).
After many years in Bangkok, I had been there on numerous occasions but this time, I decided to stay there overnight in order to see and photograph some of its most famous landmarks at night.
My other purpose was also to get there and return via various taxi-boats, to discover new sections and also enjoy another sunset over the Chao Phraya, or take pictures with an early morning light.
As we are still in the rainy season, I was lucky enough to have a great weather all the time! Here is an account of this stroll with pictures to illustrate the various sights.
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| Riding the taxi-boat on the Chao Phraya River |
1. Getting there.
Rather than going there on a weekend, I chose to leave on a fine Sunday afternoon in time to watch the sunset over the river.
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| At Wat Arun. |
So, I took the regular express-boat on the Chao Phraya at Saphan Taksin bridge. The sun had already started its descent bringing a different light to the riverbanks. I stopped at
Wat Arun pier on the Thon Buri right bank of the river. The Temple of Dawn (
Wat Arun) had been recently completed and I wanted to see how it looked without its scaffolding.
Then, I stepped into the regular ferry across the river near
Wat Pho, in Rattanakosin. This area of Rattanakosin is known as
Tha Tian. I checked in at a lovely, little hostel I know called
Aromd Hostel.
It was the right time to be ready to go and watch the sunset over Wat Arun and the river.
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| A view of the river at sunset. |
2. Sunset over the Chao Phraya River.
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| At Eagle Nest Bar |
Often enough, during the rainy season, there are some really spectacular sunsets over the 'City of Angels'.
There is another riverbank hotel close to Aromd Hostel, which has a rooftop bar with a grand view over the river, Wat Po and part of Thon Buri. This hotel is called
Sala Arun and its bar is called
Eagle Nest Bar.
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| Cityscape panorama at night. |
Luckily, the sky was just appropriate for a fine sunset. But I also wanted to be there at nightfall in order to get a different perspective of the river and of the lit Temple of Dawn.
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| View on Wat Arun from Eagle Nest Bar. |
3. A dining experience in front of Wat Arun.
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| Wat Arun and the river at night. |
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| Dinner by the river. |
Nearby, there is also a fine restaurant called
Eat Sight Story with an open deck facing the river and Wat Arun. It offers great Thai cuisine at a moderate price with a spectacular view and a friendly service. It had started to rain a little but this did not prevent me to stay on the deck under a big parasol and enjoy my order of a Chicken Coconut Soup [
Tom Kha Gai] with rice and a glass of Chilean red wine.
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| Eat Sight Story Deck. |
4. Night stroll around the Grand Palace.
The rain did not last long. After dinner, I walked past
Wat Pho (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha) to enjoy the lights. At the corner of Thai Wang Alley and Sanam Chai Road, I was surprised to see
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| One of the temples at Wat Pho. |
a long file of people waiting to be able to pay their respects to King Rama IX. All dressed up in black, there were thousands of Thais waiting patiently, almost a year after the King's death, and at night time! This is hard to believe if you do not see this with your own eyes!
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| The City Pillar Shrine |
Anyway, I kept on walking past the security and the crowd to see the lights over
the Grand Palace, the lit nearby Ministries as far as
Lak Muang [the City Pillar Shrine].
At Sanam Luang, they are in the process of completing the royal funeral pyre of King Bhumibol. So, I turned into Lak Muang Road and reached the first protecting canal [khlong], Rop Krung.
I walked along the 'khlong' on Rachini Alley as far as Saranrom Park. I discovered there was a small Dutch lift bridge there I had never heard of before. Since it was still early before the gates of the park would be closed, I walked in the park. I had forgotten they had a Chinese pagoda there as well!
5. Morning walk from the river to the Golden Mount.
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| Morning queue at the Grand Palace |
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| At Saranrom Park. |
After a nice breakfast at the hotel, I left with the idea of going back via khlong Saen Saep, the main canal linking the western side to the eastern side of Bangkok. I usually use it the other way round, seldom if not never from Rattanakosin.
It was a gorgeous morning with clear, blue sky and a brilliant light. I walked past Wat Pho again to
Saranrom Park. At Khlong Rop Krung, I walked back to the
Dutch lift bridge and then walked on
Charoen Krung Road on my way to Wat Saket and Saen Saep. I had seen on the map, there seemed to be a nameless park in this area. In fact, its name is
Rommaninat Park. It is an absolutely gorgeous park, with a water-mill, statues, an open-air gym, a children's playground, and a lovely little
sala made of wood.
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| The Dutch lift bridge. |
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| At Rommaninat Park. |
Turning into Maha Chai Road, I was not far from
Wat Saket (the Golden Mount). On Boripat Road, I stopped at a little café just in front of Wat Saket. Boripat Rd. is an interesting street with many carpenter shops. One of them specializes in making birdhouses!
The main canal is a few steps away at Phanfa Bridge. It marks the western end of Saen Saep at Phuttha Bucha Pier.
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| Open air gym at the park. |
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| A carpenter shop. |
6. Riding the water-taxi on Khlong Saen Saep.
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| Sitting in front of Wat Saket. |
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| Aboard the Saen Saep taxi-boat. |
At this time of day, the boats were rather empty and it took me less than thirty minutes to get back to the Asok Pier near Makkasan.
Funny to think, I have lived here for so many years and still enjoying to discover new corners of the great City of Bangkok.
Christian Sorand
