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Saturday, August 26, 2017

Bang Khun Phrom Palace, Bangkok

The Bank of Thailand has recently opened to the public a magnificent former royal residence that has
now become a museum.
Inaugurated in 1906, Bang Khun Phrom became the residence of one of King Chulalongkorn's sons, HRH Prince Paribatra Sukhumbhand. This European baroque mansion adorned with white stucco was designed by Mario Tamagno, an Italian architect, who was commissioned to build many other royal projects in the capital. This amazing building has been entirely restored with a garden facing the Chao Phraya River, in the northern section of Rattanakosin, close to Dusit.
It is only opened to the public on Saturdays and you must come with a group by making an advance booking online.
   


Front view
Back view
Stucco decoration
Area map
Corner detail
Facade window
Garden side detail

Sunday, August 20, 2017

The Lofoten Islands, Norway.

The enchanting Arctic Islands of Lofoten

Norway is known for its fjords and its stunning landscapes. It is one of Europe's most beautiful countries. Because part of the nation is above the Arctic Circle, it is one of the few places in the world, where there exists this magnificent show of Nature known as the Northern Lights (or Aurora Borealis).
Position of the Lofoten Islands
In the Norwegian province, known as Nordland, above the Arctic, there is a group of islands stretching along the coast between Narvik, in the North, and Bodø, in the south. 
They used to be home to fishermen, whose principal resource was cod fishing. This activity still exists. However, tourism has now become the main local industry, particularly in the summer. Then, the temperature is an average of 12º-16ºC.
It is easy to cross the archipelago from north to south. Highway E10 goes from Harstad/Narvik Airport (Evenes) all the way across the islands through a series of spectacular bridges and tunnels. Nordland operates a coach service (Lofotekspressen) from Narvik to the airport down to the last village known as Å at the tip of the last bigger island. It is also possible to sail across to the mainland, mostly from Leknes (car ferry) or Svolvaer (passenger hydrofoil) to Bodø, or vice versa.

The countryside is absolutely awesome: a snow-capped, rugged mountain range with waterfalls and fjords that look like still lakes mirroring the landscape. The southern island of Moskenes is one of the most spectacular. It has four scenic fishing villages worth the journey: HamnøyReine, Sørvågen, and Å. This section of the Lofoten is also where the highest peak is rising (Hermannsdalstind, 1029m). Yet, the little harbor town of Svolvaer is an absolutely delightful place to stay too. All of these places are facing the more tranquil southern coastline sound separating the islands from the mainland. The northern side is facing the often rougher Norwegian Sea.

Svolvaer harbor
The fishing village of Å
Reine bay

Saturday, August 19, 2017

Open House Bookstore: A new design concept

Top view of Open House Bookshop

A new design concept created around Art books

Central Embassy top floor
Bangkok has become an Asian showcase for Architecture and Design. In just a matter of a few years, Sukhumvit has become a new designer's showcase. It first started with Siam Center, then it extended to its twin mall, Siam Discovery offering a totally new concept of shopping, design, and relaxation. When EM Quartier opened, it also became a new attraction featuring a waterfall, a suspended garden and a spiraling alley of cafés, bars, and restaurants. Central Embassy was also featuring a stupendous contemporary architecture. But due to the fact that it was a haven for the top brand names, it remained mostly snubbed by most people. This is probably why they tried hard to revive it in a way that would attract people. 
Open House Bookstore, on the 6th Floor of Central Embassy, opened a few months ago with another brilliant new concept. They turned the entire floor into a bookstore that looks more like a contemporary library than a simple place for books.
The idea was to set a sort of community environment having books at its center. "This floor here was conceived by Central Embassy and Klein Dytham architecture (KDa).  They wanted to do something different with retail, such as bringing together books and restaurants." [Thailand Tatler, 30 May 2017]. 
There are lots of books, both in Thai or in English, not only regarding the Arts, but also travels,
Quiet reading corner with a view
regional interest, rare editions, cook books, and also books for children. There are sofas and armchairs to rest among the books on display.
Then, all around they have opened a series of restaurants, coffee shops, and even a wine bar with a view on Sukhumvit and Wireless Road. Children have their own safe place while parents go browsing for books. In the evening, they also have a small live band with a singer.
The concept seems to be successful by judging the number of people patronizing the premises. This is an absolutely wonderful place to relax among the books. 
A library-like corner


Browsing an Art book
Playroom for children

Dining area
Evening live music

Restroom view
Quiet coffee shop with a view for readers or laptop browsers.

Sunday, August 13, 2017

Thai wine-tasting at the Bangkok-Peninsula

Wine consumption has spread worldwide lately. Besides the traditionally wine-growing producing regions, new countries have entered the race to forge a reputation. Thailand is one of those. There exists now five vineyard regions: 
  • In northern Thailand: the Phu Rua Valley (Loei), Mai Chan Valley (Chiang Rai)
  • The Khao Yai Valley
  • Silverlake estate near Pattaya
  • The Chao Phraya delta
  • Hua Hin Valley.
On a few occasions, I have visited the Silverlake vineyard near Pattaya. This is a truly beautiful location in a valley near Buddha Mountain, having a lovely tropical garden and an Italian-style community center with an A/C wine-bar. One time, I sat there for my own wine-tasting session. They produce three types: two kinds of white (Chenin Blanc, originally from the Loire Valley, and Chardonnay, from Burgundy), a rosé grande, and a red (Syrah or Shiraz, originally from the Rhône Valley, bearing the name of the famed Persian city of Shiraz, known as being the original birthplace of the grape). I kind of enjoyed their Chardonnay, thought that their rosé was palatable but definitively banned their Shiraz.
Nevertheless, recently the Bangkok-Peninsula Hotel was offering a Thai wine-tasting session, featuring the Khao Yai Winery from the PB (Dr. Piya Bhirombhakdi) estates. So, I signed in to try another new Thai brandname for wine, and also to return to The Peninsula, which is such a grand hotel in the 'City of Angels'.

The Peninsula Bangkok

This is one of Bangkok finest hotels with a worldwide reputation for excellence. I stayed there before
Shuttle boat to Peninsula
and really enjoyed being there. Located on the right bank of the Chao Phraya River, in Thonburi, it is right on the riverbank facing the Shangri-La and another grande dame, the Mandarin-Oriental.
To reach the hotel from Saphan Taksin pier, one must use their own shuttle boat built in Thai style. Being there early, I revisited the ground floor premises by the river. Their oriental art collection is worth seeing.
Lobby tea-room
Lobby bar ceiling
Wall wood panel
Painting of Thai bird cages

Bronze Garuda on a Naga
Elephant statue

The Khao Yai Wine-tasting

The wine-tasting session was held at the Thiptara Thai restaurant, set in a beautiful Siamese atmosphere, right on the bank of the Chao Phraya. When I arrived, I was told that I could first have beer, should I wish to. I declined because I could not come to the idea of mixing beer with wine. But then I learned that the PB Estates were, in fact, the same as Singha Beer !
They presented three types of wines: white, rosé and red. They also offered some delicious Thai delicacies to go along with, in an impeccable service.
I first started tasting their Chenin Blanc, which I thought was quite good. Then, I switched to their rosé, which I thought was not to my taste at all. I was waiting for their Shiraz with some palatable experience. However, I was quite disappointed, not that it was not good but simply too young in taste.  This wine has probably a good potential provided it is kept properly so that it can mature to enhance its quality.
White (Chenin blanc)
Rosé
Red (Shiraz)
PB Estates wine-tasting at Thiptara restaurant
Sala Pavilion
Chao Phraya bank
The industry might still be too young in Thailand. I also wonder why it seems to be such a necessity to grow three colors at the same time. The Chenin Blanc appears to do pretty well. Growing Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon takes a lot of savoir-faire. The quality of the earth, as well as the exposure to the sun play an important role in the making. Moreover, wine conservation is not only a matter of experience but also a matter of aging adequately.
It will probably take many more years before the Thai wine-making may improve its quality in order to be able to compete with other down under wines from Australia or New Zealand.

Yet, I am grateful to the Peninsula to offer such an opportunity. I thought I had to pay for this wine-tasting session. To my surprise, the staff told me it was a hotel activity offerered to their guestd and that it was therefore complimentary.
Peninsula front garden & the River Café.


Friday, August 11, 2017

Charoen Krung Road, Chinatown-Bangkok

© Nancy Chandler's map of Bangkok


Charoen Krung Road was the first major street ever built in Bangkok at the time when there was a Westerner's settlement in Bang Rak district, on the left bank of the Chao Phraya River. At the same time, in the late 1800s, there was also a large Chinese community issued from the growing maritime trade with China. This community spread mostly between Bang Rak and Rattanakosin, the royal Thai district. Today, Chinatown-Bangkok is considered as the largest Chinatown in the world.

A walking tour of Charoen Krung Road in Chinatown

Map of Charoen Krung Road
The one hundred-year old Hua Lamphong station is a good starting point to explore Chinatown. Three major roads run parallel to the Chao Phraya River. Each one offers a different perspective of Chinatown: Thanon Song Wat, Thanon Yaowarat, and Thanon Charoen Krung. But since I have already written on the first two, this article will describe some of the main interesting sights on Thanon Charoen Krunk.
As you start walking on the street from east to west, there are a few interesting old Chinese Tea or Herbal shops. Then, you reach a house row of Chinese funeral shops showing examples of their massive coffins. Contrary to the Thais, who incinerate their dead, most Chinese Taoists bury corpses. On the right sight of the street, a gate between the shops leads to a yard, where Khwong Siew Temple is. Besides its shops, the street offers many other usual attractions: eating stalls, vendors, fruit markets, and also there is one section selling Chinese or Buddhist amulets. The most interesting landmark is the Chinese-Buddhist temple of Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, the largest Chinese Buddhist Temple in Bangkok. 
Chinese town house row.
Amulet vendors
Herbal shop
Temple door-knockers
Khwong Siew Temple
Buddhist ceremony at Wat Mangkon  Kamalawat
Chines style building
Apartment buildings
Small street shrine
Street food stall
Interior of a shop
Wat Mangkon Kalamawat roof crest.