There
are different ways to go to Sukhothai, in Central Thailand. But I
chose the quickest and simplest way to get there by flying.
Bangkok
Airways
offers a daily service out of Suvarnabhumi Airport and it only costs
THB1,200 OW. Some more, this 'boutique airline', as they call it,
offers a lounge service to all passengers.
Bangkok
[BKK] → Sukhothai [THS]
It
takes exactly an hour for the ATR72 to fly to Sukhothai, serving a
light meal on the way. Sukhothai
 |
| Arriving at Sukhothai Airport |
Airport is a nice regional airport
built in Thai style.
Once
at the terminal, there is a door-to-door transfer service. It cost me
THB300 to get to my hotel near the historical park after a ride of
roughly 45min.
The
New Sukhothai village.
 |
| Buddha's Foot Print |
The
nice, immaculate hotel I am staying in (Sukhothai
Garden)
offers free bikes to its guests. This is the best way to explore the
area as it is particularly safe and appropriate to go cycling in the
park or in the archaeological vicinity.
The
historical park village is by far the most convenient place to stay.
First, because there are many cafés, restaurants, or convenience
stores nearby; then, because is is just outside the Historical
Park and
Ramkamhaeng National Museum.
All the other surrounding historical sites are also easily accessible
by bicycle or by car from here.
National
Geographic introduces Sukhothai by saying:”Sukhothai is to
Thailand what Angkor is to
 |
| Historical Park pond |
Cambodia, Tikal to Mexico, and Giza to
Egypt”. I fully agree, but I would add “Pagan to Burma,
and Borobudur to Java”. Sukhothai has two major assets.
Firstly, it is set in a wonderful natural environment, which is
extremely well tended within the protected zone. Secondly, because
all the archaeological sites are well-preserved and marked with
bilingual signs (Thai/English). It is one of the rare places in
Thailand that has become a UNESCO World Heritage site. Ayutthaya
(Siam's second capital) is also under the UNESCO patronage.
Sukhothai
became the first capital of Siam in the 12th
century A.D. It marks the beginning of a true national identity at a
time when a few enlightened princes decided to get away from the
Khmer grip. Consequently, it stresses some important cultural
aspects. Sukhothai is a mix of past Khmer (Brahman) culture with a
definite new trend of Sinhalese (Buddhist) culture. This is a clear
indication from its founders to get away from their former faraway
ruling masters. The beauty of it all is that the blend turned into a
magnificent new art form, known today as
 |
| Sukhothai Buddha |
the Sukhothai Art,
the first purely Siamese artistic movement, so refined and so full of
graceful beauty that it could easily be compared to the Greek
artistic movement. Historically and culturally speaking, Sukhothai
remains an important landmark. Politically, the ruling monarchs were
close and accessible to the people, preferring to rule more
democratically (than the Khmers), away from all military conflicts.
King Ramkamhaeng
(1278-1318) is known to be the person, who created a new Thai
alphabet still in use today. Thailand belongs to the branch of
Theravada Buddhism (originally from Ceylon). But Thai Buddhists are
clearly a mix of the Brahman and Buddhist religions dating back from
these days. Ganesha – the Elephant's god – is highly revered in
the country; Thais also have a passion for elephants; the Giant Swing
in Rattanakosin (Bangkok old city) or even the overall use of spirit
houses, are all other testimonies from the Brahman period. From then
on, Siam, now known as Thailand, became a fully independent nation
never to be colonized or even occupied. (The short period when the
Japanese army in WW II were in Thailand was not an invasion but
rather an 'invitation' by a former Siamese King). Rama I (1782-1809),
a past monarch of the current Chakri dynasty, realized that the roots
of Thailand were to be found in the Sukhothai heritage. Consequently,
he decided to rehabilitate the ruins in order to strengthen a
national spirit for his kingdom. It is now under the protection of
UNESCO.
The
objective of this short consideration is meant to reveal the
importance of Sukhothai for today's Thailand, stressing the
underlying national and cultural impact it has sustained up till now.
On the other hand, Sukhothai remains also one of the most pleasant
and interesting landmarks in the country.
 |
| Evening light on one of the park ponds |
Sukhothai
Historical Park.
The
layout is reminiscent in many ways of the ancient architectural
heritage of the Khmers in Angkor Vat, or the ancestral Chinese
classic city planning.
 |
| Wat Sa Si chedi |
The
old city is built within a square surrounded by a moat. There are
four main gates in the middle of each side pointing to the four
cardinal points. The square and number 4 are a universal, symbolic
way to represent the Earth. Even numbers represent the norm of
everyday's life whereas odd numbers hold a more mysterious identity
and are therefore used religiously, like the circle instead of the
square. The square is a representation of our world; the circle is
the symbol of the cosmos and consequently, the place where the
deities dwell. In Hinduism, the square-shaped mantras
are meant to be blown away, when the Dharma
wheel represents
the eternal continuity of life. Ancient cities were built according
to these basic principles. So, at Sukhothai, the holy constructions
are
 |
| Wat Si Sawai prang |
in a circular shape or use the following odd numbers: 1
(Sinhalese chedis),
3 (Brahman prangs),
5 or 9 (other Buddhist religious figures). For instance, a typical
construction could have a square wall with four side gates, having a
small prang
or stupa
(chedi)
at each of the four corners and a larger prang or chedi at the center
of the square, representing Mount
Meru,
the holy mountain in the Himalayas.
After this brief
introduction, it is now time to consider the layout of Sukhothai
Historical Park.
Many
sites from different periods are enclosed in the main area revealing
the passage from the Brahmanic religion to the Buddhist period. It is
a clear testimony of modern Thailand religious beliefs.
-Wat
Mahathat [วัดมหาธาตุ
'temple
of the great relic']
(13thc) is the largest
 |
| Wat Mahathat sitting Buddha |
and most striking complex. It was
both a palace and a monastery. Although its construction started
under the rule of the first king, Si Intharathit (ca 1240-1270), it
was expanded by subsequent monarchs. The mix of the Hindu &
Sinhalese styles reveal the passage to another era. The largest
bell-shaped chedi (stupa) stood on a 5-layer square base
indicating the passage from the earthly habitat to the apex of the
heavenly cone. Another Sukhothai particularity resides in the prangs.
Instead of being rounded at the top, they end in a lotus-like shape.
-Wat
Si Sawai [วัดศรีสวา]
(12thc) remains a more Khmer-style construction. It is
the oldest. Its
 |
| Buddha's image |
three corncob prangs recall Angkor and bear a more
massive look, lacking the grace of the newer Singhalese sanctuaries.
-Wat
Traphang Ngoen ['silver lake temple'] (14thc), is one of the most striking constructions. It is built on an
island in the middle of an artificial lake. Its huge chedi is
crowned with a lotus-bud ending. In the month of November, this is
where the festival of Loi Krathong [ลอยกระทง]
is being held. Loi Krathong – the festival of the floating candles
– originates in Sukhothai.
-Wat
Sa Si [วัดสระศรี]
(14thc) overlooks a lake and keeps a large sitting Buddha
image and a smaller black Buddha image standing in the famous
Sukhothai walking style. Its chedi, assembly hall (vihara)
and ordination hall (ubosatha) reveal the prevalence of
Singhalese Buddhism.
-A
monumental statue of King Ramkamhaeng sitting
with a Buddha-shaped head, dominates a large modern esplanade near
the village side of the park (East entrance).
WARNING:
You may
not see them but the park is the home of many venomous snakes.
If you come across the team of workers in charge of cutting the
grass, you will notice how many snakes hurry to get out of the
grass and jump into the nearby pools. So, avoid walking in the
grass or trod with your feet as a warning. At night, the snakes
go out and you can see them cross the roads in the park.
|
→ On
Saturday nights, for a short period of time, the monuments are all
lit up in the historical park.
 |
| Night view of Wat Mahathat |
Other
surrounding historical sites.
All
the historical sites face the East according to tradition. This is
where the new village of Sukhothai is located. All the other
historical landmarks outside the royal city within the moated square
are classified by the other cardinal points: north, south, and west.
**East
side, around the new
Sukhothai community: there are two main conspicuous sites.
-Ramkhamhaeng
National Museum
[พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติรามคำแหง]
is really worth seeing as it is quite informative and nicely
presented.
-Wat
Traphang Thong Lang, near the
museum is a temple built on an island, which has a Buddha's
footprint. It is particularly nice to get there at the end of a day
before sunset.
-Wat
Chang Lom [วัดช้างล้อม]
(14thc), further down the road, on the left side, near the Yum River is a
bit out of the way but has a huge chedi
adorned with elephants at the base (chang
means elephant in Thai).
**North
side, offers some of the
other more important historical landmarks.
-Wat
Sorasak [วัดสรศักดี์]
(1416 A.D.) just outside of the royal city, and still within the city
wall, is another interesting monument. The main bell-shaped chedi
sits on a base of 24 elephant sculptures. This concept is based on a
belief that the elephant regarded as a beast of burden for the
emperor, is a suitable animal to firm;y uphold Buddhism throughout a
period of 5,000 years.
-Wat
Mae Chon,
on the left side of the road after the city wall, has a sitting
Buddha image on a base
 |
| Modern wat mural |
of 7.50m x 11.45m.
-Wat
Phra Phuttha Siri Manrawichai Hall
is an interesting modern Thai temple built in the sukhothai
architectural style. The pastel-colored murals inside the viharn
are particularly interesting. The Naja ramp at the entrance is made
of celadon.
-Wat
Phra Pai Luang
[วัดพระพายหลวง]
is another massive temple, the oldest in Sukhothai, as it was founded
by the Khmers in the 12th
century. It is in the middle of a huge square shape surrounded by
another moat in the Khmer style with typical corncob prangs.
-There
is another new, modern monastery on the premises with a lying Buddha.
There are some conventional Buddhist wisdom signs in the garden
saying:”Next to God,
the parents”/ ”Be
quick to hear but slow to speak”/ ”Prevention
is better than cure”.
-Wat
Si Chum [วัดศรีชุม]
(13thc) is another must see place in Sukhothai. Known as the 'temple
of
 |
| Wat Si Chum giant Buddha |
the Bodhi tree', it
has a giant sitting Buddha hidden behind a wall that became an iconic
image of Thailand. This type of construction is called a mandapa
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandapa].
Inside, there is a huge sitting Buddha (11m wide x 15m high) called
'Phra Achana'.
-There
is also a newer version of Wat Si Chum having its own curiosity. A
side temple has niches with small statues. If you slide in through
the tight opening, you will get into an inner chamber full of ancient
religious images of all sizes where people come and pray.
 |
| Praying at the inner chamber of Wat Si Chum |
**West
side, back on the road to Tat, there are more sites to discover.
A small road on the left follows a densely forested hillside. This
area is less visited because it requires more physical efforts,
particularly if you are on a bicycle. It eventually goes to a vast
reservoir providing a lovely country view. Three historic sites are
worth seeing. Two are on top of a hill, and one is next to the road,
closer to the royal city enclosure.
-Wat
Saphan Hin [วัดตะพานหิน]
(13thc), has one of the nicest standing Buddhas in the park, and
 |
| Wat Saphan Hin standing Buddha |
offers a
magnificent panorama of the whole area. Its name means 'stone
bridge' (saphan
is a bridge, and hin
means stone, in Thai). This is because there is a 300 meters long
pathway made of slate stones to get up to the 200 meter-high hill
crest. There, you will see a large statue of a Buddha (about 12.5 m
high) in what used to be a viharn
('assembly hall').
-Wat
Khao Phra Bat Noi
[วัดเขาพระบาทน้อย]
(14th
to 18thc), is the 'Temple of the
hill (khao)
of the Lesser Buddha
Footprint' and is as
difficult to reach. Its main interest resides in its Sri-Lankan stone
chedi.
-Wat
Mangkorn [วัดมังกร]
(late 14thc, early 15thc) is the 'Temple of the
Dragon' inspired by the
Singhalese architecture. It offers many visible specific ornaments.
The site “features
the remnants of an interesting railing made of Sangkhalok pottery,
the only temple exhibiting this technique in all of
Sukhothai”(Oriental architecture).
The
roots of some trees have grasped some of the ruins, thus evoking the
ruins of Angkor Vat in Cambodia.
Hopefully,
the description of some of the most interesting historical landmarks
of Sukhothai will prove to be a useful tool for a visit of this
amazing site. What makes it even more fascinating is its natural
environment as well as all the other aspects of Thai life visitors
will encounter while being there. Sukhothai is one of the most
interesting places to see in this country. It helps getting a better
understanding of the Thai past and culture.
Christian
Sorand
 |
| Sunset at Wat Mahathat |
Bibliography
& other references:
Thailand, National
Geographic Traveler (Third Edition), Washington D.C., ISBN 978-1-4262-0408-1
Thailand, DK Eyewitness Travel, London, 1997, ISBN 978-0-7566-85621
Thaïlande, Lonely Planet, ISBN 2-84070-462-5
