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Friday, October 30, 2015

Chiang Mai ( เชียงใหม่ )


Map of walled city
   Chiang Mai is a religious and cultural city in the north of Thailand. It spreads on a valley at the foot of a mountain range towering above. It is an old, historical place, which was the capital of the Lan Na Kingdom for 500 years (from 1296 to 1768) before becoming a province of the Siamese Kingdom. Its name means 'New City' (Chiang, city & Mai, new) because it became the second capital of Lan Na after Chiang Rai (Rai, means old). Chiang Mai was founded in 1296. Today it is Thailand's third largest city with about 1M inhabitants. But it has retained a provincial charm and an exotic architectural style from its Lanna heritage. As it is 700 kilometers north of Bangkok, its climate is usually cooler, particularly during the months of November to February and at night the temperature drops considerably during this period of time. During some colder years, the temperature falls down close to 0º. It has not been classified by UNESCO as of now, but a request has been made to make it a World Heritage Site. Its ancient walled city has the shape of a square that was surrounded by a wall and a large moat. The moat remains in the shape of a canal planted
On Thapae Road
with trees on its banks. Part of the city walls remain, mostly on the four corners, which were defended by fortified brick towers. There were also five gates to access the royal city. But Chiang Mai is also a city with many temples: it is said there are 350 temples, some as old as the city itself, founded in the 12th century. Chiang Mai retains a charm of its own and attracts many visitors from Thailand or from all parts of the world. It is a city with a leisurely life pace. Some come here to learn about Thai cuisine; some come here to learn Thai or the art of massage. Spas and massage parlors are found all over town. It is a place to taste the delicious Thai food in its many restaurants or just cool off at bars or by the Ping River that flows through the city. What also makes Chiang Mai attractive is the presence of many hill tribes in its immediate surroundings. Needless to say that shopping for art, curios or traditional hill tribe souvenirs is one of the many pleasures of this great city. As a matter of fact, Chiang Mai is also a well-known center for its hand-painted umbrellas.
Café courtyard

Fruit stall
Here is a list of Chiang Mai's most interesting landmarks and attractions. They are classified in three different groups: the town area between Thapae Gate & the Ping River, the walled city and finally its immediate surroundings.

Town section between Ping River & Thapae Gate

One of the main attractions in this part of town is the place known as the Night Bazaar. But these days the Night Bazaar is not as interesting as it used to be. Many hotels are in this section. So there are many bars, shops, restaurants, and the inevitable massage parlors, which cater for the tourists.
Walking from here to Thapae Road as far as Thapae Gate can be quite interesting if you decide to use the alleys. But since it is a mini maze, make sure you have a good map and a sense of orientation if you have never been in this area before. It is quite interesting as there are many boutique hotels, guesthouses or hostels here.
Once you are on Thapae Road, make sure to visit a first temple called Wat Buppharam.
Wat Buppharam (วัดบุปผาราม)[1497]- This is a very interesting and beautiful temple made of several parts.
  • The Dhamma hall (Ho Monthian Tham, 1996) is a two-storey building adorned with mythological animals. The word 'dhamma' or 'dharma' refers to cosmic law and order.
  • A white chedi (or stupa) of mixed Mon and Burmese style guarded by four Singh (Burmese-style lions).
  • A small Lanna-style viharn (sermon hall) built in teakwood and dating from the 16th century
  • A larger viharn which dates back to 18th century.
Dhamma Hall

Mythological animal
Thapae Gate- As you reach the walled city, you can see the former city moats that now look like a canal and parts of the brick walls that surrounded the ancient city of Chiang Mai.

The main road behind the gate is called Rachadamnoen Rd. 


The walled city

Like the Chinese or Khmer cities, Chiang Mai old city was designed in the shape of a square.
There are so many temples everywhere that it is hard to know which ones to choose. But as you walk
Lanna Architecture
on Rachadamnoen Rd., you reach a garden with a wonderful traditional house on the left side:
Lanna Architecture Center- This is a beautiful example of a Lanna house that has now become a research center and an exhibition hall dedicated to the Lanna culture. The garden has also a nice little café to rest and cool off.
At the street corner there, turn on the left into Phra Pok Klao Road to see two of the most interesting temples.
Wat Panthao- The original temple was built in the 14th century and is thought
Wat Panthao
to have been a royal throne hall. The present viharn dates back to 1876 and is entirely made of teakwood panels. It has a three-tiered roof and a superb facade.
Inside Wat Panthao
Standing Buddha

Wat Chedi Luang ( วัดเจดีย์หลวง)- 'Temple of the big stupa'[14th century] is a grandiose place not
Map of Wat Chedi Luang
to be missed.
  • The main viharn [built in 1928] is particularly impressive and holds a big standing Buddha from the 14th century.
  • The city pillar or Lak Mueang ('Spirit of the City') is kept in the cross-shaped building on the left side. The interior has a rarely designed mural (but it is only accessible to men visitors).
  • The massive brick chedi in the back is rather typical of Lanna style. It is built on a square base 44m wide and is 60m in height. There are four monumental staircases guarded by mythical nagas (serpent-like mythical animals). There are also stone elephants midway on each side. It was built in 1391.The top of the chedi was destroyed by an earthquake in 1545. It housed the great Emerald Buddha before it was moved to Vientiane, Laos and now in Bangkok.
  • There are other smaller viharns in the back some having wax figures of past holy monks.
City Pillar

Main Chedi

Roof pillar carving

Chedi staircase

Reclining Buddha












When you walk back to the intersection, turn left into Rachadamnoen Road and continue straight until  a T-junction, where there is another grand temple/monastery.
Wat Phra Singh ( วัดพระสิงห์วรมหาวิหาร)- 'Temple of the Lion Buddha' [14th c]. This temple-monastery was built in 1345. It is a place of major importance in the city life. It is made of several buildings:  
Map of Wat Phra Singh

  • The main assembly hall, Viharn Luang (luang is a title referring to a king), was rebuilt in 1925.The red & white interior is impressive and houses a seated Buddha (Phra Chao Thong Tip) that dates back to 1477.
  • The small elevated building on to the right of the assembly hall is a monastic library (from 1477). It has a white stone base to protect the library from floodings. There are several bas-reliefs with thewadas (Buddhist spirits). The staircase leading to the red wooden library is made of two protecting Nagas.
  • The smaller assembly hall, Viharn Lai Kham (Gilded Hall) is from 1345 but was restored in the 19th century. It is a good example of Lanna architecture. It houses the 14th century's Lion Buddha (Phra Singh), which is said to have been brought from India via Ceylon, Nakhon Si Thammarat (in the south) and Ayutthaya before being here. The murals are particularly beautiful.
  • The largest chedi dates from 1345.
  • The ubosot (Ordination Hall) was built in 1806.

Wat Phra Singh main assembly hall

Library

Main viharn interior

Viharn Lai Kham

Pavilion of the Reclining Buddha

The Reclining Buddha

Open sala (Pavilion)
















Wat Phra Singh is at one end of the walled city. So, you must go back to Rachadamnoen Road until you reach the intersection with Prapokkloa Road and make a left turn to the square situated in the middle of the walled city with a sculpture that has become Chiang Mai's landmark.
Three Kings Monument- One of the three kings is the founder of Chiang Mai, King Menrai with the King of Sukhothai and Payao.
But on the street to the left, there is an ancient, gorgeous temple, that not many people know about:
Wat Inthakhin- [13th c]- As it is located in the center of the walled city, it used to house the city
Wat Inthakhin
pillar, a symbol of the city foundation. It is very ornate and made of dark wood.
Interior of Wat Inthakhin
Back to the square on Prapokkloa Road, continue to your left past a school ground and turn right in the soi next to the Thai Airways building. 
Wat Chiang Man (วัดเชียงมั่น) [A.D.1297]- This is the oldest temple as it was built in 1297 by King
Wat Chiang Man
Mangrai.
  • Chedi Chang Lom (the 'Elephant Chedi') has 15 elephants emerging from the square base of the chedi. [#1]
  • The main Wihan renovated in the 1920s. [#2]
  • A smaller new Wihan that houses two important statues of the Buddha: the Phra Sae Thang Thamani or 'Crystal Buddha', a 10cm tall statue made of quartz crystal; and the Phra Sila, a stele with a standing Buddha, which is thought to come from Ceylon from either the 8th or 10th century. [#3]
  • A Ubosot, that was built in the 19th century. [#8]  
    The Elephant Chedi

  • A Temple Library (Ho Trai) made of wood.
  • A Lotus Pond. 
Pond Pavilion
Wat Chiang Man temple
Wat Chiang Man main wihan
Sunday night street market- If ever you happen to be in town on a Sunday, do not miss going to the night street market. It starts from Thapae Gate all the way up on Rachadamnoen Road and even in the street of Wat Chedi Luang. This is a typical Asian night market, where local or hill tribe vendors sell their products or craftsmanship.
--> SundayNight street market
Night market scene
A photographic night visit of the walled city monuments:
A street temple 

Wat Chedi Luang
Wat Luang Chedi at full moon
Wat Chedi Luang main assembly hall

The City Pillar

Wat Panthao gate
Lit façade of Wat Phantao

Outside of Chiang Mai


Map of national park
While in Chiang Mai, it is nice to explore its immediate surroundings made of mountains, waterfalls, lakes, rainforest, and a lovely countryside, not to mention some of its hill tribe communities. There are many things to do. Here are a few options.
Doi Suthep view on Chiang Mai
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (วัดพระธาตุดอยสุเทพ) [A.D. 1383]- This is a must see visit as this is the
Map of Wat Doi Suthep
holiest Buddhist shrine in northern Thailand. It is at about 15km away above the city at an altitude of 1,000m above sea-level. So the air is cooler there and there is a great viewpoint over Chiang Mai from the temple. Doi Suthep is in fact the name of the mountain, which is also a national park (Doi, means 'mountain' in Thai). It is covered with a rainforest and some hill tribes live there. One group often performs dances at the temple. Once you arrive at the site, you have the choice to either take the incline to the temple or decide to walk up the 309 stairs guarded by two giant Nagas. The visit of the frescoed cloister on the upper terrace with all its shrines, bells, Buddha statues, golden umbrellas and shiny chedi, will remain a highlight of your trip. Some more, it is fascinating to observe the rituals of prayers made by dozens of worshippers, who come here to pray and make offerings. Make sure to see the statue and the shrine of the white elephant, which made the legend behind Wat Doi Suthep.
Staircase to temple
Upper terrace
View on the mountain rainforest
Mae Sa Elephant Camp- Elephants play an important role in Thailand's cultural and religious life.
Mahout on his elephant
They are highly revered and admired for their strength, intelligence and playfullness. This camp was founded in 1976 and offers a good opportunity to see and approach Asian elephants and their mahouts. The park is set in a natural environment on a hillside by a river. You can also ride an elephant, go and feed them, watch them bathing or attend an amazing show and watch how they can actually paint with their trunks!
→ Maesa elephant camp
Elephant feeding

Elephants bathing
Elephant show
Painting made by an elephant
Bai Orchid-Butterfly Farm- In the same area, you can stop at this farm in order to see some colorful varieties of orchids and a nice little butterfly cage, where you are surrounded by many xotic butterfly species.
Butterfly park

Orchid farm

Tiger Kingdom- This is another nearby attraction. If you really want to approach a real tiger (at your own risk), this is the place to go. It is rather amazing to be able to get a chance to be so near to tigers known as being extremely dangerous animals. 
→ Tiger Kingdom
Tiger with tamer
Long-necked Karen village- Like in many other places in northern Thailand, there are may hill tribes living in the mountains: the Karen, Lahu, Palong, Hmong, Kayaw or Akha. In the same area as the Tiger Kingdom, there is a village, where it is possible to see a few long-necked Karen. It is a rather touristic attraction, but there aren't many places, where you may see them. They also sell natural products and handicraft.

There are many more things to see in or out of Chiang Mai. The above selection only describes some of the most important attractions that ought to be seen on a trip to the area. 

Christian Sorand
--> Weekend in Chiang Mai (Google+ slideshow)

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Ayutthaya (อยุธยา) - Historical Park

Ayutthaya in history

Map of Ayutthaya island
Ayutthaya became the second capital of the Kingdom of Siam in 1350 after Sukhothai. It is on the Chao Phraya River. Therefore, it has a direct access to the Gulf of Siam. In fact, the old royal city is built on an island as it is completely surrounded by three rivers: the Chao Phraya River, the Lopburi Rivers, and the Pa Sak River. It is located in the Central Plains at about 80 kilometers north of Bangkok, the third capital of the kingdom. Today, its official name is Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya (พระนครศรีอยุธยา). The Thai word Nakhon is derived from the Sanskrit word Nagara and refers to a capital city. Phra (พระ) is a title for a most revered person (i.e. a monk) or a place. The word Sri or Si (ศรี) also comes from the Sanskrit Sri and in Thai occurs as a part of a personal name or a place name.
By the end of the 17th century, Ayutthaya had become one of the largest cities in the world with 1M
Sitting Buddha
inhabitants. It had commercial exchanges with the Arab World, India, China, Japan as well as many western countries such as Portugal, the Netherlands or France. The Portuguese had established a trading post and built a Catholic church. King Louis XIV sent a delegation to establish the first diplomatic relations with the King of Siam.
But in 1767, the Burmese invaded the region and burnt the city down. People fled and this is when King Taksin decided to sail downstream to found a new capital on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in what is now Thon Buri. Later, the new capital moved to a new location across the river to Ratanakosin, the old city of Bangkok.

The Historical Park

In 1991, the ruins of the historic city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Much of its formal grandeur has now been restored and it has become a touristic attraction. It is a lovely wooded area with lakes and canals, where you can see some of the ancient capital monuments.
*Viharn (image hall) Phra Mongkol Bopit (1637) is an imposing Wat, which houses a large Buddha statue.
*Wat Phra Si Sanphet used to be the largest temple in Ayutthaya. Built in the 14th century, it had 16m high gold Buddhas that were melted by the Burmese army. The row of its three majestic chedis (Thai for stupas) have become the old city's landmarks. They stand as a testimony of the art known as the Ayutthaya style.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet chedis
*Wat Phra Mahathat (Temple of the Great Relics) was also built in the 14th century. It has an
Buddha's head
impressive prang (a Khmer-inspired central tower) symbolizing Mount Meru. Its main touristic attraction has also become a Buddha's head entwined in the roots of a tree. This Wat was the residence of the Supreme Patriarch. There is still a superb stone Buddha image in the former Viharn (Assembly Hall).
*Wat Lokayasutharam is the place, where there is a huge reclining Buddha image. It is 37 meters long and 8 meters high. The head rests on a lotus.
Reclining Buddha
*Wat Chaiwatthanaram is perhaps the most spectacular temple. It is not located on the island but is
Wat Chai Watthanaram
on the other side of the river. It was built in 1630 by King Prasatthong in a style similar to that of Angkor Wat. It was a royal monastery. The main prang (35 m high) stands in the middle of a square with four lesser prangs in the corners. This central monument is surrounded by the second square of eight lesser prangs and a gallery that has rows of Buddha images. The Ubosoth (Ordination Hall) is facing the river and has two sitting Buddha images. The symbolic outline of its architecture (square/circle) and of its numbers (1 + 4 + 8) is quite interesting.

These are but a few of Ayutthaya's main sights. It might be a good idea to stay here for a few days and wander through the main sites with a bicycle as the park paths invite visitors to a more leisurely ride to discover this lovely and fascinating place.

Christian Sorand


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Sunday, October 18, 2015

Sunday Amulet Market (Talaad Phra Chan)

Street scene

Covered sure alley

Amulet dealer
On Maha Rat Road, near the Grand Palace and the Chao Phraya River there is a picturesque street market held here every Sunday. It is known as the amulet market. Each side of the street behind Wat Mahathat and Sanam Luang is occupied by stalls selling all kinds of Budhist amulets that attract a large crowd of Thai connoisseurs searching for their adequate protection or a rare specimen. Some – included monks – have their own foldable magnifying-glass to get a better close-up look at the samples. Interested collectors can also buy specialized magazines on amulets. In fact, there is more to see than just religious amulets. There are also charms and talismans like shark or tiger teeth. Other items include stones or gems or a vast array of traditional medicines on sale. Some other dealers sell old coins or banknotes. Whatsoever, it remains a fascinating place to observe people and all the trading activities. Of course like anywhere else here in Thailand there is food and beverages amidst all the street amulet dealers.

Maharat Road corner building
Set of amulets for sale

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Bangkok Vegetarian Festival (เทศกาลกินเจ)



The Vegetarian Festival is celebrated all over Southeast Asia.The Phuket festivities in Thailand are particularly notorious. In Bangkok, the festival runs in Chinatown because it is originally a Chinese festival known as the 'Nine Emperors Gods Festival' [九皇爺]. The Thais call it 'Tesagan Jin Je' Festival [เทศกาลกินเจ].
After reading an article about the event in the local press, I went there out of curiosity. There was a mention of a Chinese Opera performance by the Chao Phraya River. I was not familiar with the part of Chinatown, where it is all happening. Bangkok Chinatown is really big and it is a maze of narrow alleys. The particular place where this is being held is situated between Charoen Krung Road at the level of Soi 20 and the Chao Phraya riverbank. This part of Chinatown usually specializes in the trade of car parts. But during the festival this gray area becomes brightly colored in white and yellow – the traditional colors of the Vegetarian Festival. During this period of time, Buddhists try to follow the precepts of not eating
Incense burning
any kind of meat. And since food is an important cultural event in Thailand, the narrow alleys are full of vegeterian stalls displaying traditional techniques of making Chinese cookies, selling fruits and all kinds of natural juices. Perhaps, on a normal day, you might not feel all that secure in all these narrow, winding alleys. But during the Festival, they are brightly lit with lights and lanterns and full of people of all ages dressed in white for the Festival purpose.
In order to find out where the right places are, you simply need to go with the flow making sure you can find your way back because this is not a place where any tourists come. Although I did see a few isolated farangs amidst the crowd, most of the time I was all alone. People are always friendly and smiling in this country, so this is not a problem.
Besides the street activities, I saw a few interesting Chinese temples particularly visited since this is first and foremost a religious festival. There is also a cultural exhibition in an old riverbank mansion. Many local artists had displayed their artwork there. But the most fascinating place was at the Chao Phraya riverbank. There is an old Chinese Temple there with a sort of covered yard that was filled with giant candles burning.
Stage of the Chinese Opera
The Chinese Opera was set by the river facing the temple. People were allowed to go on the backstage to attend the making-up session before the performance. It takes a long time for each artist to paint his/her own face. It certainly was a fascinating moment and quickly became the evening's highlight.
Needless to say, I tried many of the delicious culinary delights on sale at the many stalls. Later in the evening, I found my way back to Charoen Krung Road and walked on to the Chinatown Gate near Wat Traimit. They had a great dragon show on Yaowarat Road but this part of town is a better known area. It lacked the authenticity of the back riverbank alleys.
Christian Sorand
Chinese shrine
Chinese Opera performance
Backstage make-ups
    
Dancer's costume

Yaowarat Festivities

Chinatown Gate

Human pole

The dragon rules
Yaowarat Chinese Temple
At the temple














Map of Bangkok Chinatown

Google slideshow

Sunday, October 4, 2015

The Story of Boat Quay, Singapore.

Panorama of the 'Belly of the Carp' on Singapore River
Singapore was founded in 1819 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles near the mouth of the river as a
The Merlion
British trading post. Its names derives from the Sanskrit word
Singapura. Singa means 'lion' and pura is 'city'. This is the origin of its nickname the 'Lion City'. The Merlion has become its iconic emblem : a mix of a 'merman' with the head of a lion.
In the 1820s, the south bank of the Singapore River started to develop as the main commercial center. This part of the river resembles the belly of a carp. According to the Chinese belief this is a sign of wealth and prosperity. This accounts why Hokkien Chinese started to build shophouses on the southern bank of the river in a place now known as Boat Quay. Most of the trading activity there was done for tin, rubber, steel as well as rice, tea and coffee.
Today, the port activity has moved to a larger and more modern area making the Lion City the second commercial port in the world after Rotterdam. In the late 1980s, a plan was made to conserve the heritage of Boat Quay. The
Singapore River
restoration is now complete and Boat Quay has become a bustling pedestrian mall with pubs, cafés and restaurants. It is particularly active at night as it offers an ideal location for Singaporeans and visitors to cool off by the river.
Photos (Google)

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Night panorama of Marina Bay