BACK TO TUNISIA, September 2019

At Sidi Bou Saïd

Despite what is often said about the national carrier, the' TUNISAIR' flight from Marseilles departed and arrived on time at Tunis-Carthage Airport.

The formalities upon arrival remain slow, mostly because of the number of passengers and a lack of immigration personnel. Getting the baggage was quicker than expected, Yet, the ATM machine was out of order and the money changer stalls had a long queue.

It was quick and easy after to get the car-rental vehicle, but the still ongoing road work-out slowed everything just outside the airport vicinity. 

Soon, I was driving back on the Tunis-La Marsa expressway, on my way to the familiar northern suburbs of the Tunisian capital. 

TUNIS, northern outskirts.

Pottery & window

This time, I had rented a lovely studio in Carthage, near the Roman Amphitheater. I felt at home as it has always been in this charming country. 

I made a few calls to friends, happy to be back on these familiar grounds. It may not have been the best time. The aging President had recently passed away, bringing some political concern to people. But frankly, life appeared to be business as usual in this area. 

Being an unconditional lover of Sidi Bou Saïd, I was longing to be back there, get a feel of its unique atmosphere, be cooled by the sea breeze, and sit at a café with a sip of mint tea with pine nuts. I was happily surprised by the number of all the visiting tourists! Finally, the flow was back…

Café des Nattes, Sidi Bou Saï

My first move was to get one of these crusty, sweet doughnuts, which are part of Sidi Bou way of life! It was a gorgeous day and I sat outside the Café des Nattes, with a small glass of hot mint tea of course! Surely, I was back in heaven! But how could it be otherwise? Sidi Bou Saïd remains undoubtedly one of the loveliest hill villages of the Mediterranean!

That night, I treated myself to a true Tunisian couscous aux poissons at a nearby local restaurant I knew of! Well, shall I add that, during the whole week I was back to Tunisia, my dinner has always been a fish couscous!

In Carthage, I did not visit the ruins again, but I went back to the Punic ports because it is such a pleasant place to be and be inspired by is history. In Carthage, I also love to visit the bookshop at the community center. This time, I had a great chat with the owner, a good portrait of a Tunisian lady. Here, women are a force giving the country its unique character.

I also revisited other familiar places: Sidi Daoud, where I used to live; La Marsa, as busy as usual. At La Marsa, there is a tiny bookshop I love, called Librairie Millefeuilles. And right across, at the Zéphyr shopping-mall, I always go and sit at the rooftop café with its giant Buddha statue on the terrace facing the sea!

I did drive back on the Corniche too, all the way to Gammarth, and its sandy beaches. 

In the modern section of Sidi Bou, I met a friend at Café Coste. I went back a couple more times after. I drove to La Goulette as well, but I did not go back to downtown Tunis at all! 

La Marsa rooftop café.

HAMMAMET.

A street of the medina

The seaside resort of Hammamet is another place I can hardly avoid to be back to. I usually stay at the Sindbad’s, but on this trip, I decided to change and stay at the Raddison Blu Hotel (Hammamet Nord), a fine resort as well, although the beach here is not as pleasant as on the southern section of town (Hammamet Sud).

The Medina is another attraction I cannot miss. It is one of the cleanest and loveliest Medinas in the whole country. This time, it looked like all the walls had been recently whitewashed. A local artist had the brilliant idea to paint his own version of the Tunisian Fish symbol a bit everywhere! Some people prefer to go shopping in the Medina, but I simply enjoy walking along its winding, narrow lanes, looking at its many artistic doors with an array of different door-knockers. Actually, this stroll across the old Medina inspired me to write an article on the Hand and Fish symbols {Link to article]

The Hamsa hand on a house wall

Mosaic at Pupput

During all my previous visits to Hammamet, I had never been to the ruins of Pupput. So, this is what I did this time! 

Originally, it was a Punic settlement, but the Romans took it over when they came to North Africa. Interestingly, during the Roman period, it seems to have been a Donatist center around the sixth century A.D. Unfortunately, the historic site is not well-kept. Most of the existing mosaics are in bad shape and do not seem to be taken care of!

Near Yasmine Hammamet, I a[so visited friends, who now live there most of their time. It was a great evening catching up with old friends.

Fisherman boat on the beach

TAKROUNA.

Le Cafe Bleu, Takrouna

This fabulous Berber Eagle’s Nest remains one of my favorite places in this part of the country. It is less than an hour’s drive south of Hammamet. 

As it was on a Sunday, I was able to meet with the owner of Le Café Bleu, at the top of the rock village. She lives in Tunis but comes here every weekend. She is another typical Tunisian woman. Being a true Berber descendant, she fights to promote the original cultural heritage. She has also opened an interesting museum on the premises.

The café terrace provides a 180º view of the landscape. As it was a weekend, there were many visitors - mostly locals - on that day. And due to the upcoming elections, she was particularly vocal on the incoming political chaos that seemed to upset lots of people everywhere in the country!

Where else could you hear this but in Tunisia!

Christian Sorand