Chrismate: Kuching, state capital of Sarawak

Sunday, March 15, 2020

Kuching, state capital of Sarawak

Panoramic view of the Sarawak River from the pedestrian bridge

With more than half a million inhabitants (pop.570,000), Kuching is both the largest city of Sarawak as well as its capital. The inhabited area is vastly spreading out with modern amenities and high-rises that now define its landscape. The city has an international airport and offers many fine hotels that can attract overseas visitors.

Yet, the history of the city hardly dates back to the early 19th century, when it was founded by the Bruneian Empire. Crossed by the

The modern side of town

Sarawak River and set in between low hills, the old city offers an attractive setting dotted with parks and historical landmarks that make it a delightful place to visit.

It is nicknamed the ‘Cat City’ simply because of the Malay word Kucing meaning ‘cat’. But in reality, its name remains etymologically questionable. However, it seems that the Cat has gained an emblematic public image, which has rapidly become its trademark.

Waterfront walk

The city main attraction remains its riverbank. It has nicely been designed along the Sarawak River by becoming both a walking area and a place filled with cafés and restaurants that turn the premises into a vibrant spot in the evenings or at weekends. The equatorial climate of the region turns the vegetation into a real tropical haven. There are taxi-boats linking the two banks but they have now erected an imposing, modern pedestrian bridge [Darul Hana Bridge] that offers a sublime panorama over the river, the Waterfront, the old city and is a perfect vantage point to watch the sunset over the mountain range in the horizon. And at night, the Musical Fountain offers an exceptional distraction of sound and lights.

Fort Margherita, on the left bank, is a historic reminder of the time when the city needed protection from the pirates sailing against the current on the Sarawak River. The new imposing brown building nearby is the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly towering above the river with an umbrella-shaped circular roof. On the right bank of the river, where the old dock is still standing, another Fort turret [Square Tower] has been turned into a plush restaurant. The large landing area has become a square leading to the former

At the Old Courthouse

Old Courthouse. This fine white colonial building houses the National Parks tourist office as well as a wonderful indoor coffeehouse tastefully decorated and presenting succulent pastries amid an exuberant flower arrangement of orchids. On the way from the Waterfront Square, there is a small monument celebrating James Brooke (1803-1863), the founder of the White Rajah Sultanate.

The former Colonial British downtown center lies behind the Kuching Old Courthouse. Past the imposing colonnade of the GPO [Pejabat Pos Besar], you reach a large Green [Padang Merdeka] with a few old giant trees, flanked with Saint Thomas’s Cathedral (Anglican) and a few fine other colonial landmarks. The Sarawak Museum stands further up the street next to a lovely garden.

There is one conspicuous sight that defines old Kuching: a profusion of beautiful, giant murals that local artists have painted to celebrate the natural and cultural sights of Sarawak.

The large community of the Chinese descendants (mostly of Hakka or Hokkien origin) live in the

Townhouse row

attractive downtown area made of typical townhouses. Many, near the Waterfront, have become souvenir shops, but there are still some interesting antique shops displaying the local heritage of native Sarawak: dark wood Dayak shields or masks, colorful baby baskets, various basketry items, beads or other typical souvenirs from Borneo. The streets behind the riverfront have kept some old shops. There are some picturesque Chinese eating places or teahouses. One of them specializes in roasting coffee beans. As you walk past this shop, you can’t miss the captivating scent of fresh ground beans! This is the place to taste the delicious Sarawak Liberica

Entrance to the pedestrian
street

coffee beans, a blend on its own, neither Robusta or Arabica.

One section of town has a covered pedestrian street [India Street Pedestrian Mall], which is full of clothes stores either from Indian or Chinese origins. There are also a few Indian or Strait Chinese restaurants there, but if you look up at some of the old house facades, you will find some great and colorful examples of local Malaysian architecture.

The Chinese community has kept a good number of their colorful shrines. But there are also some imposing mosques. The pink architecture of the Kuching City Mosque is reminiscent of the British Indian architecture of Kuala Lumpur. The newly-built India Mosque right on the Sarawak River has become another city landmark. It is particularly beautiful at sunset or at night from the Waterfront Square.

But whatever you do, in the daytime or in the evening, you always come back to the waterfront park while being in Kuching. The James Brooke Café, next to a Chinese temple, is a great place to chill out. The café also displays a nice collection of Sarawak ethnic items.

For all these reasons, it is difficult not to enjoy the authentic vibrance that the City of Kuching offers to visitors. And indeed, I felt happy to be back in town even after nineteen years of absence.

Christian Sorand