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Monday, April 29, 2019

CAMBODIA - The other temples of Angkor Archaeological Park


Besides Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, there are many other temples in the historical park. A full day is hardly enough to see them all. Some more, it can be strenuous due not only to the heat but also to the effort of climbing up so many stairs in one day!
There exist two circuits to tour the archaeological park:
-one SMALL circuit that includes Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Kao, and Ta Prohm,
-and a GRAND circuit that includes most of the major sites of the small circuit but adds Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, Eastern Mebon and Pre Rup.

Option 1
Option 2
Depending on the way you choose to visit, you can slightly alter these two plans. As I was traveling with a friend, we chose to go with a local tuk-tuk. Both of us had been here previously and we just wanted to be back and spend a leisurely time on each site. So, we opted for a combination of the two major circuits that would skip Pre Rup (identical to Eastern Mebon) but add Ta Phrom.

1.Preah Khan.
This is another vast complex enclosed within walls measuring 700m x 800m. Its name means 'Sacred
Headless entrance guardians
Sword'. It dates back to the 12thcentury, built by Jayavarman VII in AD1191.
It is a huge covered maze with stone carvings and statues, often headless, due to the work of former poachers. As it was a center of worship and learning, it was also a temple of fusion between the old Hinduism and the new Buddhism.
One of this site most amazing features is a two-story side building, strangely looking like a classic Greek temple. It is thought to be a former library. 
History of Preah Khan

Decorative reconstitution
What do the sculptures stand for?
The Garuda image
A Hindu Shiva lingam

A Buddhist stupa
The former monastery library
 
Bas-reliefs
Tree grasping the external wall

2.Preah Neak Poan.
Here is another unusual open temple, whose name means the 'Temple of the Intertwined Nagas'. I was also built by Jayavarman VII in the 12thcentury. As it is located on an island of a vast reservoir, its access requires a fair amount of walking on a wooden bridge.
Temple layout
This temple was clearly dedicated to water. The legendary Naga is a giant water snake, close to the image of a dragon. But what seems more striking here is the planning involved in its conception. There is a central pool designed as a large square surrounded by four smaller square pools. The whole concept looks like a giant cross. The square is a symbol of Earth. Each of the four smaller pools has its own spout in the shape of a head: in a clockwise manner, there is a lion, a horse, an elephant, and a human. The central pool has a circular island circled by two Nagas with intertwined tails. The circle is a symbol of the cosmos; the Nagas belong to the sky and the water; they are two, standing for the duality principle. In the end, the five squares consecrate the holiness of the place, since 5 is an odd number with importance in the Eastern mythological belief. Some more, the cross points to the four cardinal directions and stresses its universality.
On the boardwalk to Neak Poan
The central pool island

3.Ta Som.
This is a nearby 12thcentury Buddhist temple, which has been invaded by the forest environment, and providing an eerie atmosphere to the few visitors, who come here.
Paved access to Ta Som
About the conservation project
At Ta Som

4.Eastern Mebon.
This is another fine example of a Hindu temple-mountain with five towers on its top. The lower terrace is adorned with elephant statues at the corners.
General map of the temple-mountain
A view on the stairs up to the central prang
Elephant standing at one corner
On the upper terrace of Eastern Mebon

5.Ta Prohm.
This Buddhist temple was built by Jayavarman VII in the 12thcentury and was dedicated to his mother. As it has been partially swallowed by the forest, it became the site of a scene of the movie 'Tomb Raider' starring Angelina Jolie back in 2,000. 
Unfortunately, nowadays it is more invaded by loud and rude Chinese tourist groups than by its picturesque natural environment that requires respect and silence. It is so unbearable that it spoils the visit. A team of Indian archaeologists works at restoring the complex.
Ta Prohm amidst the tropical forest
Tree scale
Spectacular invasion
Temple wall and high trees

Christian Sorand

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