PART 3 - VEUVE NATURE RESERVE, La Digue, Seychelles

The third largest island of the granitic group of the Seychelles has also kept its own endemic identity. Tourism and modern industry have affected its pristine environment.

The Paradise-flycatcher (fr.:'Gobe-mouche de Paradis'; Tersiphone Corvina) is a rare native bird to La Digue island. The males have a black plumage with elongated tail feathers, which the natives have nicknamed “la Veuve” (French for 'widow'). The females look very different. They are reddish-brown with white underparts and no long tail feathers. Being listed as a critically endangered species, the Royal Society for Nature Conservation (RSNC) decided to protect them in order to save these native birds. Consequently, the Seychelles National Parks Authority opened the Veuve Nature Reserve in 1982. “The Veuve Special Reserve is a special reserve for the protection of wildlife habitats and plant species. It is committed to providing a breeding and feeding habitat for the rare endemic bird species, the Seychelles Black Paradise Flycatcher (Tersiphone Corvina) population on La Digue. […] Badamier and Takamaka trees are the preferred tree species for nesting sites by the flycatchers”.

Originally, there were about 70 birds left. But today, due to its ongoing protection, the bird population

Tersiphone Corvina female & male

is estimated to about 300. The Seychelles National Parks Authority has also taken a few birds to breed on another island and I did see one Black Paradise Flycatcher on a tree in the Vallée de Mai Park in Praslin island. The ranger I talked with at the Veuve Special Reserve was hopeful to be able to save the species. But as long as they are under 500, they will remain an endangered species.

This park entrance is free and with a bit of patience and silence, it is possible to see many paradise flycatchers. They are not particularly shy and one male actually flew just above my hair as I was watching a group of black Veuves courting a female!

The trails in the forest allow you to see many tropical trees such as the Takamaka tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) or the Badamier tree (Terminalia Catappa) also known as the Indian almond tree.

Christian Sorand

Illustrations:

Veuve Nature Reserve forest

One of the Paradise flycatcher's favorite spot in the forest

Black Paradise Flycatcher

Another bird on a tree trunk

A Bois blanc tree

Takamaka tree

Links:

Veuve special reserve

Seychelles paradise flycatcher

Takamaka tree (Fr.) and Calophyllum inophyllum (en.)

Badamier tree

PART 2 - VALLÉE DE MAI NATURE RESERVE [UNESCO], Praslin, Seychelles.

Palm forest trail

Praslin, the 2^nd biggest granitic island of the Seychelles, has kept its own ecosystem. Its central rainforest is the home of many vegetal and animal habitats that can only be found here.

It is such a natural treasure trove that it became a UNESCO World site in 1983. This is what the UN organization said about this environment: “Located on the granitic island of Praslin, the Vallée de Mai is a 19.5 ha area of palm forest which remains largely unchanged since prehistoric times. Dominating the landscape is the world's largest population of endemic coco-de-mer, a flagship species of global significance as the bearer of the largest seed in the plant kingdom. The forest is also home to five other endemic palms and many endemic fauna species”.

The entrance fee (RS350/24euros) is high but it helps to maintain this unique

In the forest

habitat. A map of the area is provided, showing three different trails. Being there, I used a mix of all three and spent more than two hours in the reserve. The viewpoint was interesting because it allows having a better view of the rainforest from above. The highest point in Praslin is at an elevation of 367m. If I saw most of all the endemic vegetal environment, I was unable to spot most of its animal wildlife. I did hear many different kinds of birds singing and I clearly recognized one black Paradise Flycatcher at the viewpoint. I believe I heard the black parrot but unfortunately, I could not spot it clearly because it is usually at the top of the canopy.

Vallée de Mai: hilltop viewpoint

Here is a more accurate account of all the various endemic species found in this natural park:

A.FLORA.

“The Vallée de Mai is the only area in the Seychelles where all six species (of palms) occur together

Female coco-de-mer

and no other island in the Indian Ocean possesses the combination of features displayed on the property.” […] “The Vallée de Mai is the world's stronghold for the endemic coco-de-mer (Lodoicea maldivica) and the endemic palm species millionaire's salad (Deckenia Nobilis), thief palm (Phoenicophorium borsigianum), Seychelles stilt palm (Verschaffeltia splendida) latanier millepattes (Nephrosperma vanhoutteanum) and latanier palm (Roscheria melanochaetes), are also found within the property.”(UNESCO)

-Coco-de-mer (Lodoicea maldivica): there are more than 4,000 giant Lodoicea, some being 300 years old.

-Palmiste or Millionaire's salad (Deckenia Nobilis): a 40m high palm tree.

-Thief palm or Latanier palm (Phoenicophorium)

-Seychelles stilt palm (Verschaffeltia spendida): can grow 25m tall; the younger palm trunk is protected by spikes.

-Latanier Mille-Pattes (Nephrosperma vanhoutteanum): a small palm tree.

-Latanier palm (Phoenicophorium borsigianum)

B.FAUNA.

“The palm forest is relatively pristine and it provides a refuge for viable populations of many endemic

species, including the black parrot (Coracopsis nigra barklyi), restricted to Praslin Island and totally dependent on the Vallée de Mai and surrounding palm forest. Other species supported by the palm habitat include three endemic species of bronze gecko, endemic blue pigeons, bulbuls, sunbirds, swiftlets, Seychelles skinks, burrowing skinks, tiger chameleons, day geckos, caecilians, tree frogs, freshwater fish and many invertebrates.” (UNESCO)

-Caecilian (Dermophis mexicanus): a serpentine amphibian hidden in the ground.

-Giant bronze gecko (Ailuronyx trachygaster)

-Praslin snail (Pachnodus praslinus)

-Seychelles day gecko (Phelsuma astriata)

-Seychelles blue pigeon (Alectroenas pulcherrima)

-Seychelles Bulbul (Hypsipetes crassirostris)

-Seychelles black parrot (Caracopsis barklyi): this is the national bird of the Seychelles.

-Seychelles cave swiftlet (Aerodramus elaphrus): a small bird.

-Seychelles skink (Mabuya seychellensis): similar in appearance to a lizard

-Seychelles sunbird (Cinnyris dussumieri): a small passerine.

-Seychelles tiger chameleon (Archaius Tigris): an endangered species of chameleon.

-Seychelles tree frog (Tachycnemis seychellensis)

-Seychelles wolf snake (Lycognathophis seychellensis): can be 1m long.

This list testifies for the remarkable biodiversity found in the park. It is a very pleasant hike through a wonderful, pristine forest, which has kept an original beauty.

Christian Sorand

Giant palm leaf

Links:

Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve (UNESCO)

Praslin National Park and surrounding important bird areas

The secret of the world's largest seed revealed

Illustrations: 

Stilt palm

Cassine orientalis

Northea hornei

Roots of Vacoa Parasol

Pandanus hornei (Vacoa Parasol)

Giant tortoise of the Seychelles

PART 1 - SPICE GARDEN / 'Le Jardin du Roi', Mahé, Seychelles.

Geologically speaking, the Seychelles, in the Indian Ocean, are the visible part of the continent that 

The Seychelles archipelago

once linked Africa to Asia ('Gondwana') before the continental drift. The western group of the Indian Ocean islands (Madagascar, Réunion, Mauritius, Rodrigues, the Comoros, and the Seychelles) is politically a sub-group of the Dark Continent.

This physical feature may account why these islands have retained a unique ecosystem. It is particularly true with the Seychelles, an archipelago of 115 islands, seen as a microcontinent. The Seychelles islands are of two types:

1. the granitic group: rocky with an elevation that can reach 914m,
2. the outer islands: coral atolls.

It is interesting to note that these are the only granitic oceanic islands in the world dating back to the late Precambrian. Until the 17^th century, when they were disputed between the French and the British, the Seychelles were not inhabited. This may explain in turn why they have remained a natural paradise with an incredible variety of species both in the animal and vegetal worlds. The two best-known examples are the giant Aldabra tortoises and the coco de mer, a unique brand of coconut.

Aldabra tortoise

Coco de mer

The 45 granite islands of the Seychelles are the world's oldest ocean islands with their own rainforests. Each of the three major islands (Mahé, Praslin, La Digue) have managed to keep a specific natural environment.

Le Jardin du Roi (Spice Garden) on the island of Mahé is one of the best places to visit if you are interested in knowing more about the local flora in particular.

Le Jardin du Roi and its colonial house

The present estate is not the original one, which was burnt down by mistake in the 18^th century. At that time, a French trader and horticulturist, Pierre Poivre (1719-1786), originally from Lyon had

Pierre Poivre in Victoria

started to import clove and nutmeg from the Moluccas (the Dutch 'Spice Islands' in the East Indies) in order to counter a lucrative business that had been a Dutch monopoly. Today's Spice Garden was recreated in order to keep the spice trade tradition. It is located on a hillside, in the southern part of Mahé island, near Anse Royale on the east coast. The original colonial house (built around 1860) has become a small museum. There is also a café and a restaurant nearby offering a stunning view of the rainforest as far as the ocean. The well-documented, self-guided tour offers three main discovery hikes in the garden:

• a rainforest trail,
• a garden walk,
• and,  a medicinal plant walk. 

  

  Map of the Spice Garden in Mahé

There is a huge number of trees, plants, and spices that have been carefully numbered so that you can recognize them on the folders provided at the entrance. Here is a selected list that I found particularly interesting to recognize on my walking tour:

#	English name	Nom français	Latin
1	Allspice	Quatre-épices	Pimenta dioica
2	Camphor	Camphrier	Cinnamomum camphora
3	Cinnamon	Cannelier	Cinnamomum verum
4	Clove	Giroflier	Syzygium aromaticum
5	Coca	Coca	Erythroxylum novogranatense
6	Cocoa	Cacao	Theobroma cacao
7	Custard apple	Cœur de bœuf	Annona reticulata
8	Guava	Goyavier	Psidium guajava
9	Jackfruit	Jacquier	Artocarpus heterophyllus
10	Java/Water apple	Jamalac	Syzygium samarangense
11	Lemongrass	Citronnelle	Cymbopogon citratus
12	Mahogany	Acajou	Swietenia macrophylla
13	Mangosteen	Mangoustan	Garcinia mangostana
14	Monkey's apple	Pomme jacot	Mimusops coriacea
15	Nutmeg	Muscadier	Myristica fragrans
16	Orchid tree	Sabot de bœuf	Bauhinia variegata
17	Pepper	Poivrier	Piper nigrum
18	Sapodilla	Sapotillier	Manilkara zapota
19	Seychelles stilt palm	Latanier latte	Verschaffeltia splendida
20	Soursop	Corossolier	Annona muricata
21	Starfruit	Carambole	Averrhoa carambola
22	Tamarind	Tamarinier	Tamarindus indica

This fascinating walking tour takes about 2 hours to complete. Needless to say, it is really interesting and quite a learning experience.

Christian Sorand

Illustrations:

Alpinia

Add caption

Pomelo

Pineapple

Cinnamon

Young cinnamon leaves

Cinnamon branch

Pepper

Green pepper branch

Patchouli

Patchouli leaves

Coco de mer tree

Coco de mer

Ylang-Ylang

Coca

Soursop

Sugar cane

Links:

The Seychelles

Why the Seychelles are the most beautiful islands on Earth

Seychelles microcontinent

Geography of the Seychelles

Spice Garden, Mahé

Spice Garden sea view.