« The City of Angels » is undoubtedly a great city to live in. It is not simply historical and full of inestimable landmarks, it is also a vibrant, state-of-the-art city that, in many ways, makes it such an enjoyable place to be. I think it is accurate to say too that most foreigners living here enjoy its constant Asian atmosphere still pervading through its atmosphere: street markets, night markets, street stalls, street-foods or simply the cart vendors selling delicious foods at competitive prices.
Walking in Bangkok can provide an invigorating feeling of joy and surprises. You rarely walk without encountering a scene that will leave you indifferent, unless you are one of these blasé blokes, who favor a bar atmosphere.
This morning, as I was walking on my daily route along Ratchadaphisek, I witnessed a series of unexpected events. Thinking about this chain of coincidental incidents, I decided to share it in writing because they are a mirror of everyday's life in Bangkok these days.
Crossing Rama IX at the Ratchadaphisek intersection, I was surprised to come across a large police street-show regarding road security. “This is good”, I thought. I noticed they were distributing helmets. As a matter of fact, it was happening near the motorbike taxis near the MRT exit. And I immediately noticed that TODAY passengers were provided with a helmet! “Fantastic!”, I reacted. Now, most motor-bikers do wear a helmet within the city limits these days. Some time ago, all motor-bike taxi drivers were registered and had to wear an orange vest and a helmet. But this did not apply to their passengers! … So what was happening was a clear novelty to safety. Well, wait till I finish the whole story...
Proceeding northwards on Ratchadaphisek, I walked across the road on a pedestrian bridge (another great safety way as pedestrian crossings remain hazardous). On the opposite side, there were a few mobile vendors on the sidewalk. I saw there was a small group of policemen as well. One or two were taking pictures with their mobiles. I slowed down and watched like a few other passer-byes. One of the policemen, probably an inspector due to the way he was dressed, was pausing for a photo in front of the vendors. Then he nodded to the other cops, then grabbed a standing parasol he confiscated to clear away and put it into the nearby police pickup.The vendors got the message and started to close their business to roll their carts away. All this happened silently... I couldn't help reading on the dismayed face of one of the female vendors, probably a poor woman struggling to make a living like so many other people in this country.
Later on, back on Ratchadaphisek, I was walking to Esplanade shopping mall for lunch, when I heard the sound of a braking vehicle. A pickup truck had just collided with a passenger van. Nothing serious, though; mostly front bumper damages for the braking vehicle. I saw that the drivers dealt with the mishap courteously. It was a simple reminder of the road security in the country (the 2nd most dangerous in the world after Libya).
This was the third event of the day. How strange!
But now, wait till you hear the follow-up for today's first story. Back to the Ratchadaphisek/Rama IX intersection, I walked past the motorbike taxi stand again at the MRT exit. The police had gone long ago and among all the passengers who were riding, I saw only one wearing a helmet. Where were all the other passenger helmets? It looked like it was business as usual!...
What you see or read in the official papers is not always a true account of reality. This may well be the “land of smiles” but sometimes you must look beyond. Some more the Asian smile needs to be interpreted. It is not always a mark of happiness. Traffic security remains an issue. The authorities are well aware of the situation. But it is not simply a matter of decision-making and spectacular public show-off. It is an education implementation to fight against what appears to be a cultural habit, which by the way many 'farangs' adopt at their own risks! It starts at school with younger children. Meanwhile, it needs to be implemented rigorously.
As for the current official trend of clearing the streets, I am not certain this should be a top-notch priority for both Thais and visitors. On the contrary, for most visitors, this is a sight that makes Bangkok and Thailand so attractive, so charming. As long as this has no implication with security measures, why would you get rid of a cultural identity that makes the livelihood of so many impoverished people?
About two decades ago, Singapore was much criticized for its lack of cultural identity. It became such an embarrassment that the local authorities decided to alter their choice. Today, Singapore has adopted a highly cultural resolution.
