Chrismate: AYUTTHAYA – The past splendor of Siam's former capital. [พระนครศรีอยุธยา]

Thursday, August 13, 2015

AYUTTHAYA – The past splendor of Siam's former capital. [พระนครศรีอยุธยา]

Historical reminder.

Bangkok is the third capital of Thailand and only since the 18^th century. The first capital was Sukhothai in the central northern end of the country. Sukhothai is a wonderful place to visit too. It is located in a huge and well-tended park as it has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bangkok to Ayutthaya

However, from the 14^th to the 18^th centuries, Ayutthaya became the second capital of the country known then as Siam. Founded in 1350 by King U Thong, it retained an important, historic role because Siamese kings kept having strong ties with the rest of the world. With China to the East but also with the West. After settling in Malacca, the Portuguese were the first to establish diplomatic and commercial ties with the kingdom. And this happened in the 15^th century in Ayutthaya. Soon, the French followed and in the 16^th century the king of Siam sent a delegation to Versailles, where King Louis XIV welcomed the Siamese in a lavish ceremony that later lead the two countries to seal diplomatic relations. It also happened when Ayutthaya was the capital. Progressively, other Western nations arranged settlements with Siam : the Dutch and the British.

Ayutthaya acquired an important position at the time. In fact, the city grew and became a major center of commerce and diplomacy. Its monuments reflected the grand role it played during the 16^th and 18^th centuries. At that time, it even became one of the world's largest cities with an estimated population of one million. Ayutthaya gave birth to a school of art that reflects a culture permeable to diverse foreign influences. The site of Ayutthaya was chosen originally because it is located at the meeting point of three major rivers. It was an island naturally protected by water. Rivers and canals were an important means of communication for Thai people. They were not using ground transportation at the time. The main body of water was the Chao Phraya River that gave access to the sea. It protected people from foreign invasion. And at the same time, it served as a way to regulate the recurrent floods in the monsoon season. Yet, this is how Chinese and Westerners were able to set their commercial exchanges with Siam.

Unfortunately, Ayutthaya was attacked by the Burmese at the end of the 18^th century. To this day, the

Map of old city @ Heiner Klein

historic episod of the King of Siam fighting with the King of Burma, both on their royal elephants, has remained an important episod still engraved in local memories. The Thais lost and the Burmese destroyed the city in 1767. A Siamese army general became the monarch under the title of King Thaksin. He fled Ayutthaya with the rest of the royal army and founded a new capital in Thonburi near the estuary of the Chao Phraya River, just across Rattanakosin, the future old town of Bangkok...

Historic city of Ayutthaya (UNESCO)

A day's visit to Ayutthaya.

Today, the city is known to the Thais as Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya. The name Ayutthaya comes from the Indian city of Ayodhya , Rama's birthplace. It has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is only at about 80km north of Bangkok. There are many things to do and visit there. And since the different sites are scattered a bit everywhere in the area, it is impossible to visit everything in one day.

This is what we were able to do on the day we went there.

Ayutthaya Floating Market [ตลาดน้ำอโยธยา]: Floating markets are a frequent scene in Thai social life because rivers and canals have always played an important role in local

Floating market show

transportation. The Ayutthaya Floating Market is a Thai theme park that recreates the traditional atmosphere. It caters more for the Thai public than to foreigners. It makes it more interesting. It is made of a vast rectangular perimeter filled with water and islands in the middle. There are shops and food-stalls all around. As it is common in Thailand, there are plenty of places where you can taste some delicious Thai delicacies. You may choose to sit on the floor according to the local custom or choose a place with regular chairs and tables. One island is used for shows. Since this is Ayutthaya, they have recreated the battle of the Thais against the Burmese on a stage. As this is mainly intended for a Thai audience, the Thai language is only used. But the performance is good enough for

Show music performer

anybody to enjoy the show provided you have read about the local history before. The whole floating market site provides lots of fun. You can also choose to go on a boat-ride. But walking along the board-walk already gives you a feeling of the country and of its rich culture.

Ayothaya Floating Market (Richard Barrow)

Ayothaya Floating Market (Michael Turtle)

Elephant Village : This is next to the floating market. There, you get a chance to approach Asian elephants and you can also choose to go on a ride. They ask for 700B/per person to go for a 30 minutes' ride. An elephant can only take two adults with the mahout. The ride is interesting because they take you around the ruins of an old temple called Wat Chang (Elephant's Temple). The chedi (also known as a stupa) is still towering above the field.

Elephant in front of Wat Chang Chad
Wat Yai Chaya Mongkol : This imposing temple is a few kilometers away on the way back to the city. Its name means 'Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory'. Its main chedi is so high (about 61m) that it can be seen from far away. The monastery was built by King U-Thong in 1351. It has a Singhalese influence because the monks of this temple used to study Buddhism in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). Stairs lead up to the chedi and you can go inside. There is also a Reclining Buddha on the premises.

Wat chedi

Reclining Buddha