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Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Wat Ratchanadda, Bangkok วัดราชนัดดาราม


Loha Prasat view
Here is another Buddhist temple [
wat] I had not visited before ! Yet, it is unique by its shape and material and also because it is the only remaining temple of its kind in the world. The other two were in India & Sri Lanka. It was built in 1836 on behalf of King Rama III and was modeled after the Sri Lanka temple.
This is a Royal Temple & Monastery. It is located in Rattanakosin (the Old City), near an old fort, City Paraket Phrakan and another amazing temple called the Golden Mount. In the middle, there is a strange structure known as Loha Prasat, which means 'iron castle'. 37 black metal spires offer a strong contrast with the whiteness of the structure.
As it is always the case in religious architecture, the Loha Prasat has a symbolic construction. It is built in a square shape, a representation of the Earth. It has 37 black spires. This represents the exact number of virtues needed to reach Enlightenment. Now, the Metal Castle is 36 meter high. More interestingly, it has 3 square levels (an odd number this time). Each level is superposed a bit like a wedding cake. The bottom square has 24 iron spires (hours in a day?); the middle one has 12 spires
Iron spires
(
months in a year?); the top is made of 1 spire (the Enlightenment stage?).The total number of spires is 37 (an odd number > 3 + 7 = 10). The combination of odd and even number is interesting: 36 (3 + 6 = 9) /37. Even numbers have a human connotation whereas odd numbers hold a sense of mystery that fits religion. Therefore, Loha Prasat could well be a visual architectural symbol revealing how to reach Enlightenment in a human life's time.
Another interesting feature consists in the ground floor level. The many columns are arranged in tiny cells, which provide the feeling of being in a labyrinth. These cells are for the monks' meditation. But perhaps this symbolizes the idea that in order not to get lost in the labyrinth of life, one must meditate in order to reach the Enlightenment. So there is a spiral staircase (another symbolic shape: a representation of the Sky) that leads to an open air walkway around the top shrine, which contains a relic from Buddha.The Metal Castle is actually made of 5 towers (another symbolic odd number).
Temple gable in sunlight
   By the way, once you have reached the top walkway, the view is really fantastic on the 4 sides offering a 360º scope of Bangkok.
There are so many temples that sometimes we may consider that this is just another temple to see. Wat Ratchanadda and Loha Prasat are somehow very different and absolutely unique. Strangely, this reminds me of Borobodur in Java. I am surprised that the symbolic significance between both monuments has never been mentioned.
There is a request to have the old historic city ['Rattanakosin'] be made a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but unfortunately this request has not been granted yet.

Christian Sorand,
Bangkok, 12 August 2014
View of Bangkok from the top

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