Le Temple bleu de Chiang Rai

Wat Rong Suea Ten [วัดร่องเสือเต้น] - The Blue Temple

Fontaine monumentale devant le temple

Décidément Chiang Rai est en passe de devenir la ville aux temples de toutes les couleurs ! Après le Temple blanc (Wat Rong Khun,วัดร่องขุ่น) et la Maison noire (Baan Dam,บ้านสีดำ), voici le Temple bleu (Wat Rong Suea Ten, วัดร่องเสือเต้น).

Entrée principale

De construction récente, ce temple est encore assez peu connu, mais déjà des hordes de Chinois y débarquent. Situé dans un faubourg nord de la ville, de l'autre côté de la rivière Kok, ce temple a été vite baptisé le Temple bleu, bien évidement en fonction de sa vive couleur bleue. En thaï, le mot rong [โรง] signifie comme baan une 'maison' et par extension, un 'village'. C'est le nom du quartier dans lequel ce temple [wat,วัด] se trouve. En fait, ten est un 'tigre' et suea ten pourrait se

Effigie du tigre

traduire par la 'danse du tigre' car autrefois c'était un lieu où les tigres avaient l'habitude de traverser la rivière. Cet épisode est d'ailleurs rappelé sur certaines effigies du temple arborant la tête d'un tigre.

Quoi qu'il en soit, ce temple vaut un détour. Le décor est un mélange de traditionnel et de moderne comme pour le Temple blanc. Certes, certains éléments peuvent paraître un tantinet kitsch, mais ils appartiennent à cet art oriental qui se complait dans les courbes et les volutes. Les peintures murales intérieures ont une simplicité moderne. Un Bouddha blanc assis, aux lignes épurées, se trouve dans le sanctuaire, alors qu'un grand Bouddha, également blanc, se tient debout à l'arrière de l'édifice. 

Plafond intérieur

Bouddha assis

Décoration extérieure

Bouddha debout à l'arrière du temple

Chedi bleu

Statue mythique de l'entrée

Peintures murales intérieures

Crête du toit à l'effigie du hamsa (le cygne hindou)

BAAN DAM MUSEUM, Chiang Rai

The mysterious Black House of Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai is already popular for its White Temple, located about 15km south of the city. The Baan

Three-tiered Lanna roof

Dam Museum, at about 10km north of Chiang Rai, has been wrongly called the Black Temple. This is because it is drastically opposed to the white purity of Wat Rong Khun ('The White Temple'). So, some people consider it is a contrast between the forces of good (white) and evil (black). These opposite symbols do exist in Hinduism & Buddhism. Yet, Baan Dam means the black (สีดำ, dam) house (บ้าน , baan). There is a definite reason for this name.

First, the Black House is a sort of art gallery spread out on a vast hilly ground facing a large pond. It is made of many different buildings some built in the traditional style, others totally modern in shape, like a series of white upturned glasses or a huge gray fish resembling Captain Nemo's submarine!

The second surprising element of this open-air museum of art is the prevailing obvious death theme.

It is not only due to the black color. There are a number of dead animals skins, skulls, skeletons, and

A strange circular meeting room

bones everywhere. This is a hair-raising taxidermist place: the skeleton of an elephant, a carpet made of a full crocodile skin, a long wood table adorned with a snakeskin. The animals, the architecture belong to the southeastern Asian sphere. Sometimes, the style of the buildings recalls the Lanna architecture, mainly by the impressive roof design.

Roof finials shaped as horns

At other times, it seems more primitive recalling the Pacific tribal art of the Indonesian archipelago. But there is one artistic unity: the recurrence of the water buffalo horns or skulls. As a matter of fact, there is a live pink buffalo grazing on the grass near the small lake.

It leads to a third surprise that only becomes evident after a while: an array of intriguing symbols. Some are fully visible in the open by the use of stones. Here, a giant spiral leading to an elevated central stone; there, a huge triangle shaped with stones, or another entirely made of stones; in another place, there are 6 upright stones curving around a big rock in the middle. One black stilt building is made of 3 houses whose roofs end with a gable-finial symbolizing the horns of the male buffalo. It is presented as a temple with incense burning. Another smaller construction shelters 3 statues of Buddhas in successive height.

The 'temple' seen as an effigy of number 3

There are many descriptions of the Black House but none consider the underlying symbolic

Another strange meeting room

explanation. Moreover, some of the rooms have been clearly designed as meeting rooms using the horns of animals for the chairs or other pieces of furniture or decoration. So, what is the meaning of all this? What is the cultural background lying behind? What can it be used for? The esoteric atmosphere of the place seems particularly evident.

My own explanation can only be tentative based on anthropology and a cognitive social knowledge of the Asian culture(s).

Thawan Duchanee

In order to build up an accountable analysis, we need obviously to consider the creator of 'Baan Dam', Thawan Duchanee (1939-2014). Born in Chiang Rai, he became a painter, a sculptor and an architect. He studied in Bangkok, particularly at Sikpakorn University. It is an interesting fact already to know that he was both an architect and a gifted painter, who studied Hindu, Chinese and Japanese Arts. He was

A white meeting room with a black door

particularly keen on the Chinese form of black and white pencil drawings. Architecture and painting are forms of art that use a symbolic heritage. Thawan Duchanee was also a devoted Buddhist in spite of the controversy triggered by his definite vision of art. He was made a national artist of Thailand and was internationally known. He traveled a lot to Europe, North America, Australia or even across Asia. He seems to have had some inner connection with the Netherlands and Germany that may have influenced his art.

Next, if we now consider some of the previous descriptions of the symbols on display at Baan Dam, this is what can be said:

• The southeastern Asian culture. Asian art is characterized by its curves, spirals, and volutes. This is a common trait in paintings, sculptures, and architecture. The Asian roof is often curved and always ending with a finial symbolizing a protecting deity. There is a reason for that. The

  

  Taxidermist display

  Asian spirituality believes in the opposing forces of good and evil. The Balinese sanctuary is guarded by two fierce-looking deities. The Thai wats are often protected by two Nagas. Asians believe that the evil spirits must be constantly chased away. A malevolent sky creature descending the roof of a temple will be pushed back thanks to the protective curved finial of the roof. The sound of the small bells attached to the roof serve the same purpose: the sound they make will scare away bad spirits. All the human or animal protective guardians look fierce and powerful to frighten the evil forces. Because demons can resemble Men in order to lure them! This is almost a Shakespearian concept: appearance is not reality. The oriental concept lies far away from the western concept. In the Greek mythology, the gods looked like humans. They were able to become animals or sometimes pretend to be simple men, who could easily lure other people. In this case, reality becomes an appearance. Both concepts have had a deep influence on beliefs, art, architecture or even people's minds. The straight line belongs to western culture whereas the curve represents the eastern civilization. An Asian cannot give a direct answer like a Westerner does because it would sound rude. Linguistically speaking, there is no such word as NO in Thai. 'Yes' or 'can' translate into dai; its opposite 'cannot' uses mai dai, which can be literally translated by 'not yes'.

This long digression serves the purpose of explaining the spiritual concept of visual art in general. But in the case of the Baan Dam Museum, there is also a need to clarify what appears to be a cult to the buffalo.

3-Buddha sala

Asian cultures from China to Indonesia are deeply rooted in the cult of the water buffalo. This image can be linked to the Mediterranean cult of the bull or the North-American bison.

Like the Lanna houses of Baan Dam, the roofs of the Bataks in Sumatra, or the Torajas in Sulawesi always have a V-shape finial symbolizing the horns of the male buffalo. It is a way to protect and sacralize a house.

Triangle shaped with stones

The black water buffalo represents strength, power, vitality and it is no accident if it has also become a Chinese zodiacal sign known in the West as Taurus. The Asian buffalo is an earthly animal associated with water. When it is in a pond or a river, it keeps its head above towards the sky. Its powerful force enables farmers to plow the rice fields. Asian art often represents the buffalo as a child carrier in the countryside. All this makes it a protective animal throughout the Far East. Its huge curved horns are a symbol of the cup, or the lower part of the original egg that belongs to Earth, as opposed to the upper part – the dome – that belongs to the Sky (the 'celestial vault').

• The universal symbols. Baan Dam offers many other symbols, which are more common everywhere else. Ethnology would classify these as universal symbols because they belong to all the human communities on Earth whether they are primitive or more advanced.

          Here is what one can clearly see at the Black House:

- A huge spiral made of smaller stones leading to a bigger center stone. It can be seen as a figurative representation of a spatial constellation or also as a symbol of the Asian spirituality described previously.

Stone spiral with an entry on the left side and an upright stone in the center

- A series of large equilateral triangles using stones to shape the three sides or filling the shape with as many stones as necessary: the void and the plain. But of course, the triangle is a geometrical representation of number 3, a symbol of the accomplished. The wooden temple of Baan Dam is made of three juxtaposed stilt-houses having two stone-filled triangles spread on the ground in front.

- Another display shows a rectangular platform filled with flat pebbles, having in the middle a curved line of 6 upheld stones with a 7^th horizontal stone resting in front.

Stone alignment on a rectangular platform

These various symbols can be linked to the Asian culture. Particularly the stone, a common ornament of Chinese art. One can also evoke the Japanese Zen dry garden of Kyoto.

Another interesting combination lies in the wooden façade of rural houses said to resemble the face of a water buffalo: a square shape with a central door and two side windows becoming triangular under the roof crowned by two stylized horns.

• The possible esoteric message. This section of the analysis remains more obscure. It seems evident that the few closed areas containing chairs serve the purpose of meetings. But it is not clear to know if this bears a purely symbolic purpose or if they are really used for some kind of esoteric reunion. By definition, if the purpose is esoteric, it remains a well-guarded secret. It simply would be interesting to know if such a secret society exists in the country.

An intricate roof design

But whatever it is, it seems useful to stress that the Black House is not a place meant to attract a sort of black mass dedicated to the evil forces. It is black because it represents the evil forces of the world. To be aware of the evil is a way to be protected from its destructive force. Again, here appearance is not reality. Thawan Duchanee was a devout Buddhist with an artistic and knowledgeable vision of spirituality.

It is also interesting to know that Ajarn Chalermchai, who built the White Temple, was Thawan Duchanee's student. And truly both sites are unique in style.

Christian Sorand

Wat Rong Khun [วัดร่องขุ่น] - The White Temple of Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai White Temple

The White Temple in late afternoon

Chalermchai Kositpipat, a Chiang Rai artist, decided to restore and enlarge the original Wat Rong

The ubosot

Khun in 1997. He decided to finance the project with his own money with the funds raised. Many other people joined his team to contribute to the construction. The project is still not fully completed. However, the ubosot (ordination hall) is finished and has already become an iconic monument both in Thailand and outside the country.

Side view with the crematorium

It is an amazing piece of art mixing traditional elements with more modern ones. For instance, the Lanna classic architecture requires a three-tiered roof and protecting Nagas guarding the access to the

Reaching hands

temple. The exterior of the temple is so ornate that from a distance it looks like a huge piece of lace. On the other hand, the interior has a definite modern look that includes a sitting white Buddha. The murals are made in pastel colors and represent good and evil pictures of our modern world. The plaster contains fragments of reflecting glass to make it glitter in the sunlight.

As a matter of fact, everything here is done according to the Buddhist

Mythological sculpture

symbolism. The ubosot is white because it represents the mind. It follows a sort of initiation path leading to the enlightenment.

• There is a small lake (a water symbol) in front of the White Temple and a symbolic bridge leads to the main entrance.
• But, as you step onto the bridge, there is a circle on the left side full of reaching hands representing desire.
• The bridge is the 'cycle of rebirth' where you leave greed, desire and temptations to reach a happier state free of suffering.
• After crossing the bridge, you arrive at the 'Gate of Heaven' guarded by two mythological

  

  Outside decoration

  creatures, one being Death and the other being Rahu, who decides on the fate of Men.
• Then finally, after the symbolic transformation, you reach the White Temple, where you should have reached a state of purity and be ready for an after-life deprived of the reincarnation cycle of 7 stages.

The crematorium above the lake

The Golden building

On the lakeside, there is a golden building that symbolizes the body rather than the mind. Gold is the source of money and desire but the golden color stands for the way to make merits according to the Buddhist precept in order to focus on the mind.

There are many more things to see on the temple ground. There is also a crematorium in the back and an amazing wishing well. The garden is carefully tended and adorned with many flowers.

Wishing well

New building under construction

The entrance to the park is submitted for a small fee of THB50 and there is a restroom fee as well to avoid the unfortunate abuses formerly perpetrated by some Chinese tourists. Due to its high touristic affluence, shops, cafés, and restaurants have flourished around the temple.

Countryside view

Yet, if you walk a few meters away from the parking area on the country road, there is a nice view over the paddy fields and a line of faraway hills. And here, there is a delightful local coffee shop built on stilt above the water with a shaded terrace with a view. Strangely, nobody comes here!

→ The White Temple, Chiang Rai

The White Temple, the lake and the bridge.

Chiang Rai [เมืองเชียงราย]

Traditional music players at the Night Bazaar

Mueang Chiang Rai is the northernmost city of Thailand. With 70,000 inhabitants, it is on the southern bank of the Mekong River, close to the area known as the Golden Triangle, where the two neighboring countries of Myanmar (Burma) & Laos meet with Thailand. Chiang is an old Lanna word meaning 'town', whereas Chiang Mai is the 'New City' [mai means 'new']. But in the Thai language, Mueang is the word used for a town or a city of importance.

TG flight from BKK to CEI

The city lies by the Kok River [Mae Kok] that flows into the mighty Mekong River, the "mother of all waters" as it is called in Laos.

Wat Ngam Muang

Chiang Rai is an old medieval city. It was founded c. AD1262 by King Mangrai [มังราย] (1239-1311). It became the capital of the Lanna Kingdom before Chiang Mai (in 1786). As it is often the case a myth and a legend support the foundation of a historical place. First, as King Mengrai was searching for his favorite elephant, he came across this site from the top of a hill above the River Kok and decided to choose it as its capital. So today, the city pillar stands on the top of the same hill. It is known as the 'navel of the city', an interesting symbol referring to the Greek 'omphalos' [ὀμφαλός]. It is not simply a religious belief. It is also a symbol of power, where the uterus is Mother Earth with the representation of a phallus. As a matter of fact, the city navel is set on the hilltop with a circle of phalluses. The nearby stupa [chedi, in Thai] of Wat Ngam Muang is said to shelter the ashes of King Mengrai.

'City Navel'

Hill history of the temple

The ancient Kingdom of Lanna was only integrated to the Kingdom of Siam in 1899.

Some of Chiang Rai main landmarks

Most of the religious monuments in Chiang Rai are either characteristic of the Lanna culture or influenced by the neighboring Burmese art. There are a few Chinese temples as well as some colonial style buildings.

Viharn of Wat Phra Kaew

 Wat Phra Kaew [วัดพระแก้ว] is an old and beautiful temple dating back

Temple garden orchids

to the 14th century. This is the place where the well-known Emerald Buddha was accidentally discovered in 1434 after the lightning struck the chedi where the Buddha image had been hidden. At the time, people thought it was made of emerald, but in fact, it is made of jade. After a long peregrination the 'Emerald Buddha' is now at the Grand Palace in Bangkok. There is now a copy of the Emerald Buddha there made out of Canadian jade. Wat Phra Kaew is enclosed in a beautiful garden with some rare plants and flowers all carefully labeled. The viharn (Assembly Hall) is a typical Lanna structure guarded by two Nagas. The golden chedi is standing behind near the ubosot (Ordination Hall), whose murals were made in the 19th c. There is also a museum that is worth seeing (free entrance). 

Main viharn Buddha statue

A brief story of the Jade Buddha

Jade Buddha at the museum

Garden oratory

Wat Phra Singh [วัดพระสิงห์] is another old temple dating from 1385. The Lanna-style viharn is

At Wat Phra Singh

guarded by two Singhas (gold & while lions) and it contains a footprint of th Buddha.

White guardian Naga

Roof angel

Across the side street, there is a vast square with an imposing colonial building and also an open hall sheltering two royal palenquins. The Chiang Rai Culture Gallery is nearby too.

Colonial building next to Wat Phra Singh

Royal palenquin

Not far from Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Phra Singh, there is also an old Lanna temple called Wat Ming Muang. Downtown, there is another interesting temple called Wat Jed Yod (19th c.). 

Wat Jed Yod

Wat Ming Muang

Other places of interest

The Golden Clocktower

Another famous landmark in Chiang Rai is the Chiang Rais Golden Clocktower . It was built in 2008 by a famous local artist called Chalermchai Khositpipat, who is the same man who built the White Temple outside the city of Chiang Rai. Between here and Wat Phra Singh, there is a wet market that has spread into th nearest streets.

Chiang Rai's commercial main street is Paholyotin Road. At one corner

Cat 'n' A Cup coffeeshop

there, near the Bus Station Terminal, there is an unusual coffeeshop Cat 'n' A Cup where dozens of cats run the scene among the sitting customers. At night, the nearby Night Bazaar has become the major city attraction in the evening.

At the Chiang Rai Night Bazaar

Besides all its local interest, Chiang Rai is also a major point to explore other nearby attractions such as the 'White Temple' (south of the city) or the 'Black House' (north). It is also a good starting point to go to the Golden Triangle and the valley of the Mekong River, as well as to explore some of the hill tribes in the northern mountain range or visit the Doi Tung Royal Villa and Garden about an hour's drive away from town.

Roof crest at Wat Ming Muang